Issues with RIA 1911 chambering

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  • Otto_Mation

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    While shooting it has had zero issues. It’s when I’m not sending round that it decides not to chamber the HP.
    That is a nose dive jam. It happens on the first round chambered with subpar magazines. You can down load your current magazine by one round and it will usually solve the issue but you should really get a few quality magazines as mention previously. Gunmagwarehouse.com has Wilsons at a great price and they are in Dallas.

    Do a search on youtube for 1911 nosedive jam and there are several videos that discuss the issue.

    ETA: Midway has Wilson ETM's on sale for $30 right now.

     
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    Tnhawk

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    Spending lots of money for a gun that wont shoot out of the box boggles my mind. Excusing the failure as evidence of "nice" is absurd.

    Not saying you have to run a Glock, but if the gun doesn't run out of the box there is a manufacturing problem even if it can be corrected. End of story.

    Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk
    Of over 25 1911 pistols only the Ed Brown required a break in. After a few hundred rounds it has been a accurate, 100% reliable pistol. It wasn’t defective from the factory, just extremely tight
     

    Gordo

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    What does your barrel to slide fitment look when you have the slide locks back?
    What does the feed ramp into the chamber look like?

    DSC05930.JPG
     

    Dred

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    @dpd11413

    Could be as simple as cheap mag loaded poorly.

    Try loading mag per usual. Next rap the flat side of your loaded mag against bench or palm to seat base of cases against back of mag. Inspect. Rap again if they aren't neatly lined up with case bases touching back of magazine.

    Now, how's that first round looking for you? Pull it. Rap rounds into line and compare with the new first round. If pulled round is oriented like first round of downloaded mag, put the pulled round back, rap it into line and give a go.

    Next time you are at the range, take a picture of loaded mags before you shoot'm. If you have a problem, look at your picture and confirm the round is oriented correctly.

    Good news, Armscorp will fix it if you let'm.

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    dpd11413

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    @dpd11413

    Could be as simple as cheap mag loaded poorly.

    Try loading mag per usual. Next rap the flat side of your loaded mag against bench or palm to seat base of cases against back of mag. Inspect. Rap again if they aren't neatly lined up with case bases touching back of magazine.

    Now, how's that first round looking for you? Pull it. Rap rounds into line and compare with the new first round. If pulled round is oriented like first round of downloaded mag, put the pulled round back, rap it into line and give a go.

    Next time you are at the range, take a picture of loaded mags before you shoot'm. If you have a problem, look at your picture and confirm the round is oriented correctly.

    Good news, Armscorp will fix it if you let'm.

    Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
    I’m shooting this weekend. I will update then!
     

    oldag

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    Never had a 1911 that required break-in. Never owned a RIA or Tisa, though.

    Checkmate makes excellent 1911 mags. They private label Sig and Ed Brown.
     

    Dred

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    Never had a 1911 that required break-in. Never owned a RIA or Tisa, though.

    Checkmate makes excellent 1911 mags. They private label Sig and Ed Brown.
    Lol ... I own 4 Rocks, 0 Tisas and 0 that have required break in to run.

    But, I've had my measure of craptastical mags and plain jacked up mags. The jacked ups were tunable. The craptastical were tunable with replacement Tripp Cobra Guts.

    OP has received a lot of mag advice. Somebody needs to steer him to Tripps. Tripp mags make wilsons, chips, etc look pretty feeble. IME, Tripp to Wilson is about the same quality gap as Wilson to Promag - yes, really. And I run'm all except Promags.

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    Otto_Mation

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    Lol ... I own 4 Rocks, 0 Tisas and 0 that have required break in to run.

    But, I've had my measure of craptastical mags and plain jacked up mags. The jacked ups were tunable. The craptastical were tunable with replacement Tripp Cobra Guts.

    OP has received a lot of mag advice. Somebody needs to steer him to Tripps. Tripp mags make wilsons, chips, etc look pretty feeble. IME, Tripp to Wilson is about the same quality gap as Wilson to Promag - yes, really. And I run'm all except Promags.

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    Tripp is good. I have replaced the guts in all my Colt and Kimber mags with Tripp upgrade kits. They are all 100% reliable for me.
     

    General Zod

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    Never had a 1911 that required break-in. Never owned a RIA or Tisa, though.

    Checkmate makes excellent 1911 mags. They private label Sig and Ed Brown.

    RIA doesn't require a "break in". That's a thing for the over-engineered $2000 1911's, and is touted as a "sign of quality". Because you should be grateful your expensive gun doesn't work the first several times you shoot it.
     

    oldag

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    RIA doesn't require a "break in". That's a thing for the over-engineered $2000 1911's, and is touted as a "sign of quality". Because you should be grateful your expensive gun doesn't work the first several times you shoot it.
    Others are stating they do. I've never owned one, so I cannot say for sure.

    And none of my "expensive" 1911's have required break-in and they don't malfunction. Neither have my less expensive. Never had a revolver or rifle that required break-in.

    The only 1911 issue I had was a SA TRP that failed miserably out of the box. Turned out to be build quality issues and wrong parts installed at the factory. Verified it was fixed and sold it. Not a break-in issue.
     

    General Zod

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    I have no clue honestly. I’m decently versed in glocks and sigs. 1911’s is a new learning experience for me. Would it say on the mag somewhere?

    Well, I remembered wrong. The factory mag is by ACT-MAG out of Italy...but mine has given me no trouble at all. And that's over the course of nine years of shooting it. I've never counted how many rounds I've put through it, but it's a lot and with no hiccups.
     

    General Zod

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    Others are stating they do. I've never owned one, so I cannot say for sure.

    And none of my "expensive" 1911's have required break-in and they don't malfunction. Neither have my less expensive. Never had a revolver or rifle that required break-in.

    The only 1911 issue I had was a SA TRP that failed miserably out of the box. Turned out to be build quality issues and wrong parts installed at the factory. Verified it was fixed and sold it. Not a break-in issue.

    I've always heard the "break in" business as a reason why someone's Kimber or Nighthawk was having problems when they bought it. The only time I've ever seen it associated with RIA or other "entry level" 1911s is in this thread. In fact, a few seconds on Google tells me the "break-in period" business is even in Kimber's owner's manual, and apparently others like Les Baer.
     

    Dred

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    Break in ... some thoughts:

    Yes, Les Baer's are gonna require break in. IMO, he sends them out unfinished. Detail strip one if you are prepared to land somewhere between cringe or cry on the C spectrum.

    Also on the break in required spectrum is Alchemy Custom who is still selling "hard fit" 1911s. These require break in for all the right reasons. Detail stripping an Alchemy will reveal what you paid them to build. A new Alchemy custom might not make it into battery on its own, but the barrel lockup in battery is superior and the gun is going to run when broken in.

    Tuason of RIA actually revamped finishing processes some 10 years back - his pistols are underpromised and over delivered. All of the cost cuts in manufacturing are carefully measured to deliver 1911s that work. They don't "take a beating" but they sure "tick."

    My observation tells me that mags are the primary source of 1911 headaches. Like many, RIA ships with mags supplied by low bidders. And buyers get low bidder (no milspec) quality and performance.

    I run low round count 1911s dripping wet 'cause I started with stainless Dan Wessons and habits. Rocks need a good cleaning to remove shipping oils followed by a good soaking in your gun oil of choice - this is to get the parkerized finish to do its thing. A park'd finish should be allowed to suck in lube - dry is grey and is not optimal.

    But OPs problem does not read like it's break in related. It reads like a magazine issue.

    To the reason for my post ... 1911s perform best when the shooter uses a firm hold. I submit that many break in issues are solved by shooters developing an appropriate grip.

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    oldag

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    I've always heard the "break in" business as a reason why someone's Kimber or Nighthawk was having problems when they bought it. The only time I've ever seen it associated with RIA or other "entry level" 1911s is in this thread. In fact, a few seconds on Google tells me the "break-in period" business is even in Kimber's owner's manual, and apparently others like Les Baer.
    Never had a Kimber. Heard too many horror stories about Baer customer service to go down that path.
     
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