High quality inexpensive flashlights.

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  • Fisherman777

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    Jan 15, 2009
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    The original S-3 flashlight had only a zenon bulb. It was decent, bright, dirty, pretty uneven... typical zenon. I put the 80l in as an experiment. It was a module from a Surefire G-2. I wanted to see if I could swap module out, and if so, if the three batteries would blow out the module which usually only runs on two. I don't know the technical term for it, but the module I used can handle up to 18v before blowing out if I recall correctly. Seeing as how a CR123 = 3v, it's nothing to worry about.

    I then used the 300 lumen because it was cheaper. I've read the 300l bulb will actually have better battery life than to 80l since it is newer technology. I haven't put the two to the test to find out; My idea of testing the modules was to leave them on overnight while I slept then see if they had melted/ burned themselves out when I awoke. If they didn't then I didn't worry about overloading them. I also left them in the bathtub for an hour; both remained dry inside.

    I see people are now selling S-3s with LED modules; I guarantee they are just buying the lights and swapping in after-market parts just like I did. Except they aren't nice enough to tell everyone how to do it!

    Thanks for the reply. I'm thinking about trying it. I have three Mini-Mags that I converted with the cheap EZ something or other kit and tailcap. They are much brighter than I had before and I have one by the bed with the 1911, one in the book case with a 12 ga next to it and one in the kitchen so I can peek inside the convection oven to check the meatballs.
     

    TwoOneOh

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    Jul 4, 2011
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    @ London,

    Yeah i should have clarified that i was inquiring about a Cree XM-L drop in unit. Any idea on what dimensions (diameter/length) i'd need? It would be sweet to have another 1000 lumen light. Granted i doubt it's exactly 1000 lumens but i'm sure you get my drift. Have you gotten see this LED module in person? According to the specs it should be significantly brighter than the current Cree models being used by most of the popular flashlight manufacturers out there, especially in comparison to the widely used Cree XP-G, which is saying something because the XP-G is ridiculously bright.
     

    matefrio

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    Jan 19, 2010
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    Missouri, Texas Consulate HQ
    Ok I got a Hugsby S3 flashlight on the way. The three CR123s are kinda strange configuration.

    After some searching and thinking I'm going to try a solarforce as well. I like the idea of two CR123A or 16340, or one 18650 battery.

    This is the body:
    Solar Force - $17.00

    201106190954180.jpg


    Here is a review of the current drop ins. These will work for the Hugsby S3 as well.
    P60 sized led drop-ins (part 3))
     

    TwoOneOh

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    Jul 4, 2011
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    So that body uses three CR123's!? if so that sucks. I'd really prefer to stick with an 18650 cell personally, due to it's long life and easily recharged.
     

    matefrio

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    So that body uses three CR123's!? if so that sucks. I'd really prefer to stick with an 18650 cell personally, due to it's long life and easily recharged.

    Hugsby S3 = 3xCR123 batteries.

    The SolarForce L2T is 2xCR123 or one 18650 then you order the right "drop-in" for it to taste. 3.7v drop in for the 18650 and 12v for the 2xCR123s if using rechargeables.
     

    London

    The advocate's Devil.
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    Sep 28, 2010
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    Twilight Zone
    Ebay has a nearly endless supply of rechargeable CR123s; I just bought a pack of four with a charger for $16. They also sell them in greater numbers without the charger; I plan on stocking up.

    If you guys really get into this type of module-swapping thing make sure you know whether you are getting 3v, 3.3v or 3.7v CR123s. It probably won't matter on newer LED modules but it's always good to double check.
     

    TheDan

    deplorable malcontent scofflaw
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    Nov 11, 2008
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    Pretty much any solid state electronics can be damaged by an EMP. Good LED flashlights have tiny little voltage regulators in them that would easily get fried. The aluminum body would probably help shield it some, but it's sort of a luck of the draw thing.

    Any car with electronic fuel injection or electronic ignition will be vulnerable, too. The old points and condenser ignition systems shouldn't be effected, but electronic ignition started to become popular in the '70s. A lot of car enthusiasts upgrade to electronic ignition, too. It's just a better system than having to deal with points. Hell, your lawn mower probably has electronic ignition... Alternators are another weak point. They have solid state voltage regulators. Alternators became popular in '60s so pretty much the only things that would still be running would be unmodified cars from the '50s and earlier, plus diesels with mechanical fuel systems.
     

    zembonez

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    Feb 22, 2008
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    I read a study somewhere that said that EMPs were only partially effective unless the electronics were actually powered up at the time of the pulse. I will go hunt and see if I can find it.
     

    TheDan

    deplorable malcontent scofflaw
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    Nov 11, 2008
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    Hey man, if you're going to talk about SHTF scenarios, you have to include even the most far out ones

    BTW, I think an EMP in the form of an attack is EXTREMELY unlikely. Our enemies don't really have that capability. It is possible from a massive solar storm however. Something similar has happened before: Solar storm of 1859
    Telegraph systems all over Europe and North America failed, in some cases even shocking telegraph operators.[5] Telegraph pylons threw sparks and telegraph paper spontaneously caught fire.[6]
     

    crabbys44

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    Feb 21, 2011
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    Austin
    Just bought 2 SureFire G-3s w/ batteries from Midway for $29.99 each.

    They also had an aluminum model, don't remember which one, for $49.99.
     
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