Very easy... All the tax office will do is look at the address on your insurance paperwork. Whether it's legit or not is up to you. I'm not a lawyer or a cop.
Free Auto advice from a certified mechanic !
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Atticus,
The "test pipe" is a term used to market a pipe which goes in place of the converter for off road use or tuning on a dynometer. Modern emissions tests look at the CEL status only(vehicles 96 and up or OBDII vehicles). If the computer is happy the rest of the inspection is safety only. In cities like San Antonio(bexar county) there is no emissions test requirement.
The same is true in several counties in Texas. As far as your vehicles pollution level... it is practically a non factor on a global scale. Carbureted vehicles like motorcycles and 4 wheelers emit more vaporized gasoline and non catalyzed emissions than your civic ever will.
The "test pipe" is a term used to market a pipe which goes in place of the converter for off road use or tuning on a dynometer. Modern emissions tests look at the CEL status only(vehicles 96 and up or OBDII vehicles). If the computer is happy the rest of the inspection is safety only. In cities like San Antonio(bexar county) there is no emissions test requirement.
The same is true in several counties in Texas. As far as your vehicles pollution level... it is practically a non factor on a global scale. Carbureted vehicles like motorcycles and 4 wheelers emit more vaporized gasoline and non catalyzed emissions than your civic ever will.
After I thought I had the belt squeal fixed on my 04 Blazer, I had it come back again. This time it sounds like it's coming from my AC compressor. It goes away after a few hours, and when you're right next to the compressor while it's under load, you can hear what sounds like a faint grinding. I want to see if I can just replace the bearings since I've never done this before. It looks like a center nut needs to be removed and everything should slide right off. Other than disconnecting the compressor electromagnetic clutch wire, is there anything I need to be aware of going into this? I think if I take off my shroud and fan, I can get in there with an impact to remove the center nut. Is it safe to install it with an impact set on low, or should I stick with a ratchet and find a way to hold the pulley in place?
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Ohhhh, here's a great video. It's even on a GM compressor.
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Yes, removing and installing the center bolt with an impact is fine. That's how I do it. If there's nothing wrong with your clutch, I'd reuse the old one. The new one that comes in the kit is typically pretty shitty. You only want the pulley/bearing anyway.
If you can get to it by only removing the shroud and fan, perfect. If not, you can loosen the compressor mount bolts and let the compressor hang on the lines. You should be able to maneuver it into position at that point.
Be sure it's actually the compressor clutch pulley bearing. If it only makes noise when the AC is under load, it's probably not the clutch pulley bearing. When the AC is on, the clutch will engage and the pulley will spin with the AC compressor; the clutch pulley bearing does not spin with the AC ON. The noise might be coming from the tensioner pulley or idler pulley. I would pull the drive belts and spin everything by hand. Listen for squeal or growl.
If you can get to it by only removing the shroud and fan, perfect. If not, you can loosen the compressor mount bolts and let the compressor hang on the lines. You should be able to maneuver it into position at that point.
Be sure it's actually the compressor clutch pulley bearing. If it only makes noise when the AC is under load, it's probably not the clutch pulley bearing. When the AC is on, the clutch will engage and the pulley will spin with the AC compressor; the clutch pulley bearing does not spin with the AC ON. The noise might be coming from the tensioner pulley or idler pulley. I would pull the drive belts and spin everything by hand. Listen for squeal or growl.
It's always on, but changes pitch when the compressor kicks on. I've already been through my alternator, idler, tensioner, and water pump pulleys. The side of the engine it's on is the A/C and power steering pump. My power steering is acting/sounding fine, so that's why I'm leaning towards the compressor.
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Pulling that hub isn't all that difficult on that vehicle. However, you may need to borrow a specialized puller to remove it without damaging it. Where the center nut is installed, you will see threads surrounding it that are a part of the outer clutch itself. Sometimes they wiggle right off but usually a puller is required. If you pry it off with a screwdriver, you may bend or distort it. With the outer clutch removed, you will need some snap ring pliers to remove the rest of the hub/clutch assembly.
Also, be mindful of any small washers or shims behind the outer clutch. They will need to be re-used to properly gap the clutch. As far as the hub itself, you may not find just a bearing and/or you may find that the bearing is "staked" like an AR 15 gas key. When they are pressed and staked they won't always press out without breaking. That may force you to buy an assembly with new clutch and hub.
Either way, before you replace it, remove your belt and turn the hub by hand. You should be able to feel a grittiness or grainy feel when turning the hub if the bearing is truly bad. If you feel that only when turning the inner pulley, that is probably a sign of compressor failure. That outer clutch pulley directly engages the crankshaft of the compressor.
I do recommend tightening with a spanner wrench and ratchet. I have seen several people pop the end right of the crank using an impact but most times you will get away with it. Overall, sounds like something you can handle. Let us know how it turns out.
Also, be mindful of any small washers or shims behind the outer clutch. They will need to be re-used to properly gap the clutch. As far as the hub itself, you may not find just a bearing and/or you may find that the bearing is "staked" like an AR 15 gas key. When they are pressed and staked they won't always press out without breaking. That may force you to buy an assembly with new clutch and hub.
Either way, before you replace it, remove your belt and turn the hub by hand. You should be able to feel a grittiness or grainy feel when turning the hub if the bearing is truly bad. If you feel that only when turning the inner pulley, that is probably a sign of compressor failure. That outer clutch pulley directly engages the crankshaft of the compressor.
I do recommend tightening with a spanner wrench and ratchet. I have seen several people pop the end right of the crank using an impact but most times you will get away with it. Overall, sounds like something you can handle. Let us know how it turns out.
Hey Tex! How can I test a relay off a 2009 suzuki C50 Headlamp? No markings, just 4 prongs. 38740-24A00 RELAY ASSY SIDE I've searched the web and can't figure it out. I think this is what my issue is, but want to test it to be certain. Head light will work on bright, but not dim. at one time it would come on, then go off, but now it just won't work on dim. I'll test the switch next, once I figure out how to do that..LOL...
Ok Randman,
Sometimes the easiest way to test a relay without tools is to simply plug it into another components socket. For example, if it is the same in shape and pin configuration as the horn relay, I would just put it in the horn relay socket and honk the horn. That is assuming the horn works to begin with. Otherwise, any relay that features 2 larger terminals and several smaller ones is an indicator that the 2 largest terminals are the ones providing and carrying power out of the relay. Basically a hot at all times power in and and open until switched power out. Usually there is a diagram on the side that will number the terminals like 87, 87a, 85, 86 and 30 or 1,2,3,4,5.
If the pins are 87, 87a, etc. Those are your power in and out terminals. To test that relay, you would simply apply power to the smaller pin and ground to another and you should hear a distinct click. That indicates that the coil that closes the relay is good. However, that does not prove that the internal contacts are good. For that you would need an ohmeter that will indicate continuity when it clicks(less than 5 ohms). Another way to test would be to input power to either larger contact and look for it on the other pin when it clicks. Using a test light it would be easy enough to check while grounding the test light on one side and looking for it on the other while energizing the coil. It all sounds complicated but it is as simple as one side hot, one grounded to make it click. Run and extra wire to one big terminal and look for that to flow through the relay when it clicks.
Sometimes the easiest way to test a relay without tools is to simply plug it into another components socket. For example, if it is the same in shape and pin configuration as the horn relay, I would just put it in the horn relay socket and honk the horn. That is assuming the horn works to begin with. Otherwise, any relay that features 2 larger terminals and several smaller ones is an indicator that the 2 largest terminals are the ones providing and carrying power out of the relay. Basically a hot at all times power in and and open until switched power out. Usually there is a diagram on the side that will number the terminals like 87, 87a, 85, 86 and 30 or 1,2,3,4,5.
If the pins are 87, 87a, etc. Those are your power in and out terminals. To test that relay, you would simply apply power to the smaller pin and ground to another and you should hear a distinct click. That indicates that the coil that closes the relay is good. However, that does not prove that the internal contacts are good. For that you would need an ohmeter that will indicate continuity when it clicks(less than 5 ohms). Another way to test would be to input power to either larger contact and look for it on the other pin when it clicks. Using a test light it would be easy enough to check while grounding the test light on one side and looking for it on the other while energizing the coil. It all sounds complicated but it is as simple as one side hot, one grounded to make it click. Run and extra wire to one big terminal and look for that to flow through the relay when it clicks.
After re-reading your post it sounds like you are working on a bike not a car. If that's the case, your lights by design should be hot when running off of the stator or magneto. Usually they apply ac voltage directly to the headlight. If it runs, start it and let it idle. Look for ac power at the bulb and work back from there. Usually the "lighting coil" of a stator is white or yellow. A weak ground to the headlight may also be an issue for you. Although the switch is a good enough place to start and look for that ac voltage to either the relay or switch in the same fashion.
Also randman, a 4 pin relay is not capable of running both a high and low beam. IME on bikes low beam is run off of stator, high beam off of battery through switch. Bikes definitely add confusion with the overlap of ac and dc power running through the same system.
Ok TexMex, I'll get a spanner wrench and a puller to be safe. You think some PB Blaster will help any? I pulled off the belt, and there seems to be a small amount of play in the pulley...but I'm not sure how much give is normal without a new one for comparison. I THINK I hear grit when I turn it, but again...a new one would be helpful. When I turn my clutch/spindle it's very hard to turn and there's not any side play. Is that normal? Part of me wonders if that's a sign of a bad compressor, but then again why would it squeal even when the ac is off and compressor unplugged. That's why I originally figured it's the pulley bearings.
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I'll tell ya, a squeal will drive a guy nuts. I just had another thought cross my mind. This is the same truck I had the problem with the crank pulley shaking bad at idle. The shake is back. Wouldn't a shaking pulley cause belt squeal? It's like a diagonal shake. I wish I knew a better way to explain it.
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Well Shotgun J,
A wobbly pulley usually won't create a squeal. Typically it is mis-alignment that causes a problem. As far as your compressor, you should feel significant resistance but the outer pulley should turn by hand(one handed) fairly easy. The effort should feel similar to a scopes magnification ring, steady resistance throughout that may get heavy only if the vehicles ac had been run recently. In that case, you are fighting the residual pressure on the discharge side of the system. It will increase at a spot for every revolution where the compressor is "compressing" freon.
A wobbly pulley usually won't create a squeal. Typically it is mis-alignment that causes a problem. As far as your compressor, you should feel significant resistance but the outer pulley should turn by hand(one handed) fairly easy. The effort should feel similar to a scopes magnification ring, steady resistance throughout that may get heavy only if the vehicles ac had been run recently. In that case, you are fighting the residual pressure on the discharge side of the system. It will increase at a spot for every revolution where the compressor is "compressing" freon.
I didn't drive it at all yesterday so I didn't have that to factor in. Everything else you describe is how it was acting though.
Shortly after getting the Tacoma back from having the Cat replaced, we tool it down to San Marcos and noticed power issues and engine surging on the highway that we didn't notice around town. Then, a week or two later - so last week - the engine started surging real bad.
When I first saw it, I immediately thought it was an air issue. All the intake area was fine and the vacuum lines looked ok, so I put the correct plugs in it and wires (I previously installed iridium per the auto store and dealership, but later found where under the hood it says to use dual prong plugs only). That didn't fix the issue, so I went over the intake again with carb cleaner, and then started looking for electrical issues since all the air related things looked to be in order. I'm getting a knock sensor code, and have read that the knock sensor wiring harnesses are known for going bad. So as I'm looking for the knock sensor location, I see a small vacuum intake on the back of the super charger that's missing a hose. I put my finger on it, everything smooths out. BAM - FOUND IT! I hooked the hidden hose back up and we have full power. I dropped it in low and ran the rpms up to 4,000 and had no surging. I put it back in drive and stomped the gas until the supercharger kicked in and had no problems. I still need to address the knock sensor, but I do love fixing a good mystery.
When I first saw it, I immediately thought it was an air issue. All the intake area was fine and the vacuum lines looked ok, so I put the correct plugs in it and wires (I previously installed iridium per the auto store and dealership, but later found where under the hood it says to use dual prong plugs only). That didn't fix the issue, so I went over the intake again with carb cleaner, and then started looking for electrical issues since all the air related things looked to be in order. I'm getting a knock sensor code, and have read that the knock sensor wiring harnesses are known for going bad. So as I'm looking for the knock sensor location, I see a small vacuum intake on the back of the super charger that's missing a hose. I put my finger on it, everything smooths out. BAM - FOUND IT! I hooked the hidden hose back up and we have full power. I dropped it in low and ran the rpms up to 4,000 and had no surging. I put it back in drive and stomped the gas until the supercharger kicked in and had no problems. I still need to address the knock sensor, but I do love fixing a good mystery.
I have a 97 f150. It has the airbag light on on the dash. I am hearing audible clicking noises from under the dash and the a/c heat will stay on after you turn the key off. This is draining the battety. I have replaced the battery and I'm going to see if there are any codes. Any ideas as where to start? Thanks in advance.
The only code was p1000. It is because of the low voltage to the airbag. Last the damn speedo quit working on the way back from the parts store. Doh!
The only code was p1000. It is because of the low voltage to the airbag. Last the damn speedo quit working on the way back from the parts store. Doh!
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