Free Auto advice from a certified mechanic !

[TexMex247]

OK gents and ladies, for my fellow TGT members, I would like to extend an offer of free auto advice to those in need. I have been fixing cars for 20 years now and I have a very high success rate ! Anyhow, I know how people always feel like they get burned by Mechanics. Guess what ? Sometimes they do !

It can be hard to decipher the best way to repair a vehicle or know which services will have the best result in fixing your problems, especially when most estimates include some "fluff" that may or may not be necessary.

As it happens, I have access to a couple of industry standard labor guides and diagnostic resources. Every once and a while, your problem is actually part of a recall or dealer campaign that will fix your car for free or re-imburse you for out of pocket expenses.

Got an 08 nissan with a transmission problem...dealer fixes most of them for free, regardless of where you bought it. How about a ford edge with a bad brake booster...also free within 100K miles at any dealer.

So, you get the idea. List your problems or recommend repairs and I will do my best to give you timely competent advice. Obviously I do have a full time job as a shop foreman but I will check this page on the regular.

Take care y'all - Texmex

 

[busykngt]

I'll be the first. Almost time to replace my battery - 2011, F-150 V8. Who is making the best battery nowadays?
(I've heard NAPA - what's your opinion?)

 

[TexMex247]

From talking to various vendors and first hand experience, there are really only a handful battery makers in North America. I believe one makes exide batteries(should be Napas manufacturer) another produces die hard and interstate,etc, etc. Overall, the only batteries that are a cut above are made by Optima. I used to prefer interstates but their overall quality and longevity has gone downhill.
As a matter of fact, about a decade ago, all car batteries lasted about 5 to 6 years. Now, they typically last 3 to 4. I have heard it is all about cheaper production of the lead plates inside them. However newer cars also have a lot more elctronic gadgetry which also slowly drains your battery.
So, I would either spend the big money on an optima or buy from the most convenient local vendor with the best warranty since you may need to use it. I am also a fan of serviceable batteries which allow you to top with water or electrolyte. I have been able to stretch several for 5 to 6 years by maintaining them properly. Hope that helps a bit.

 

[Bozz10mm]

What a great idea. Thanks for doing this. Okay, here goes.

2003 Ford Expedition. The back up assist/warning has stopped working. When I put it in reverse, the info panel shows "check backup assist".

What's the first thing I should look at? The sensors in the rear bumper are clean, not covered with mud or anything.

 

[TexMex247]

That model has a technical bulletin for failure of your parking aid module or PAM. That may not be your problem but If your car has a stored code C1983 it is very likely that it will need replacement. Unfortunatley that will require a scan tool that can interface with that system. A basic code reader may not help. Also a new PAM has to be reprogrammed. I may be able to help there if you go that route. There is a funny hocus pocus procedure with the key and gear selector,etc to reprogram them. You may also try a common electronic reset procedure by disconnecting battery cables and touching them together. Obviously not connected to the battery on either end or you will see sparks fly. Then you can reconnect them, it may help.

 

[busykngt]

What a great idea. Thanks for doing this.

I'll second that! Thanks for your battery comments.

 

[MetalCutter]

2011 Chevy Avalanche, 60K miles, company truck. Took it in for an oil change and they're trying to up-sell me with fuel system cleaner, brake fluid flush, coolant flush, etc. My opinion is none of this stuff is really needed. They're just trying to separate me from more of my money. Any of these extra services worth it with this low a mileage?

 

[TexMex247]

I'd agree metal cutter. Flushes are a lube center money maker. Don't get me wrong, I am a fan of preventative maintenance where appropriate. For example, I would perform a brake flush when pads or calipers or serviced. Coolant flush only closer to 80K or waterpump replacement,etc. As far as a fuel injector cleaner, assuming it is a gas engine, I would use some techron or lucas fuel system cleaner and call it a day. If your vehicle has low or rough idle, it is worth it to clean your throttle bore to improve idle quality. That is a common part of a fuel injector/intake system cleaning that also has some value. Your gut instict is right though, keep your money in your pocket til' you need real repair work.

 

[Mike1234567]

I have a hybrid vehicle... a kit car made from a reinforced VW Beetle chassis and GM steering column. The rest of the details are unimportant. I lost the single ignition key I had. I had no choice but to have someone remove the steering lock mechanism so I could push the car under a carport.

QUESTIONS: What do I need to do to start the car again? Does the lock have a key code that I can provide someone to make a new key? Do I have to pull the ignition lock and take it to a locksmith? I live in a rural area so having a locksmith come to me is very pricey.

 

[TexMex247]

Well Mike, Assuming the elctronics all match the engine(which they should to operate) the key/tumbler and switch should just be mechanical devices like an on/off switch. Most new-age key cutters also have the ability to program keys. It's true, if it is a GM transponder system that is somehow enabled to work with the engines ECM you may have trouble on your hands. It would be pretty complicated to enable different manufactured electronics, so I bet you could replace that tumbler/key and fire it right up.

 

[TheDan]

Great thread!

I've got a '78 280z with triple DCOEs... What's the best way to tune and balance the carbs?

QUESTIONS: What do I need to do to start the car again?

Flat screwdriver and a hammer

 

[TexMex247]

Go away Dan ! All kidding aside, tuning carbs has never been my strong suit. However, if they are specific to cylinders and not running on a shared mount, I have always just "read" spark plugs and adjusted accordingly. Unfortunately a carburetor is only as effective as an engines compression will allow it to be, so maybe a complete compression test is order before the horse beating commences. If your manifold breaks down as individual ports to carb, the spark plugs will be your most useful indicator. Otherwise a "lean drop" test can be useful. Where basically you keep leaning back until you pick up misfires then back off a little.

 

[Brains]

Got an '07 Charger, and the TPMS has never worked right. Had it back to the dealer several times while it WAS in warranty, and they could never figure it out. Surprising, right?

Anyway. The problem is one of the three transducers is likely not working. With 2/3 working it can sense all four tires' pressure but cannot sense their position. Pressure is reported on the dash but the wheel location doesn't match (e.g. LR displayed pressure is actually the RF wheel). Short of going back to a dealer and having to pay for their "diagnostics" is there any other way to locate the offending transducer, and find the part to replace it with?

 

[Vec]

2008 Scion xD 63K

ABS light and Brake light on

dealer repaired once under warranty with 2 new rear wheel unit brgs, (sensors in the unit bearing) problem came back in 3 months.

i have black taped over the lights on the dash because they are irritating.

is there a way to disable the lights?

 

[Mreed911]

Thanks up front!

2009 Mazda Tribute, 175K mostly highway miles (66%/33%). Firestone, who does my brakes, tires, alignment and rotations (bought their lifetime alignment once and it's been worth every penny and have a good relationship where they don't try to upsell me crap) recently recommended replacing the front left tie rods. I tend to agree since I can hear a soft "pop" from that wheel well at times. Question is - should I go ahead and do both sides since they've never been done? I don't want to put the car in, do the left, and a month later do the right. Is wear on one side indicative of wear on the other, especially at 175K miles? Anything else I should do at the same time (other components likely worn as well)?

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

Ok, I think I have a good one.

2004 Blazer, 2wd. When I'm at idle (around 600 rpms), it has a pretty irregular but profound rough idle. It smooths out as soon as I hit 800 rpms. It's been to 4 different shops and at least 6 different mechanics have looked at it - including one shop manager. It's had the following done to it:

IAC valve and throttle plate cleaned
Vacuum lines replaced
All fuel injectors and spider replaced
New plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
New fuel filter
Sea foam run through 6 tanks in a row after injector replacement
2 new harmonic balancers
2 new tension pulleys
2 new belts
New crankshaft pulley

It's got a code for the downstream 02 sensor, but I don't think that would do this.

What might we be missing? Last word I got is possible warped crankshaft.


Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

 

[Mike1234567]

Well Mike, Assuming the elctronics all match the engine(which they should to operate) the key/tumbler and switch should just be mechanical devices like an on/off switch. Most new-age key cutters also have the ability to program keys. It's true, if it is a GM transponder system that is somehow enabled to work with the engines ECM you may have trouble on your hands. It would be pretty complicated to enable different manufactured electronics, so I bet you could replace that tumbler/key and fire it right up.

Actually, this is a Franken-car... GM steering column, Ford V6 engine, VW beetle chassis, Italian-style kit car body, lots of custom work...

Everything is "old school" on this monster.

So you're suggesting I buy a replacement ignition key-switch?

 

[Mike1234567]

Great thread!

I've got a '78 280z with triple DCOEs... What's the best way to tune and balance the carbs?

V8/4bbl conversion!!

 

[Moonpie]

Which brand/model of auto do you consider the most reliable?

 

[TexMex247]

Right now, subaru gets the nod over all others. As far as trucks probably toyota. Mike, you should only need a tumbler set w/new keys to get it fired up again. Any plain jane set that fits that column should work. However, if you had a matching door or trunk tumbler I bet you could pull it and have a key made by a locksmith.