Free Auto advice from a certified mechanic !

[Mike1234567]

<snip> Mike, you should only need a tumbler set w/new keys to get it fired up again. Any plain jane set that fits that column should work. However, if you had a matching door or trunk tumbler I bet you could pull it and have a key made by a locksmith.

Okay, thanks... no door locks on this puppy.

 

[TexMex247]

Ok Brains, just read about your problem. There are a couple of tools out there that ID TPMS sensors by signal frequency alone. We've got one at the shop but generally they are expensive. You will probably need to go to a tire shop and have them use it on each respective wheel. If I get some time later, I'll see if there is a manual relearn procedure that you can enable using the key/vehicle itself. I'll try to get back to ya.

 

[TexMex247]

Vec, only way to disable lights without effecting other systems is to pull the bulb itself from the dash panel. It may be pretty easy unless it is some integrated LED/LCD type cluster. Remember that the amber light on does mean the entire ABS system will be disabled.

 

[TexMex247]

Mreed, that is a tough call. I never like to pre-emptively replace anything. However, suspension and steering components may be the exceptions to that rule to maintain balance in the way your car handles and your tires wear. If you have a truly free "lifetime" warranty then you still won't be paying for an alignment again assuming you wait til' the other one is bad.

 

[TexMex247]

OK shotgun J, The Vortec motor blazers do notoriously have several issues. One is the spider or more often your fuel pressure regulator. Another common one is a dirty EGR valve. It tends to get rock-like chunks in it that hold it partially open. It basic creates an internal vacuum leak that almost feels like a misfire. I would probably start there. It is the silver or black cylinder practically sticking out the front of the motor. You will need to remove the 2 bolts securing it and inspect the ports in it. It's an easy DIY job. Remove 2 bolts, turn upside down, use screwdriver and carb clean to remove carbon build up. Before you poke at it make sure one hole is wide open and the other is completely shut. The shut side will look like it has a torx screw in the middle but it doesn't. You should be able to easily depress it open and clean out a ring of carbon where it seat shut. Re-install and try it out. Make sure the key is not turned on when you unplug it or it will generate a code and check engine light.

 

[TexMex247]

Another thing Shotgun J, if you are a hands on type, you can remove a valve over the top middle of the motor and you can see if the FP regulator is leaking. It will literally drip under pressure. Like I said, a more common problem than the others you listed that may have been addressed with a new spider assembly.

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

Thanks TexMex! I'm a construction mechanic, so I'm not shy around an engine. There's just a few differences between these automotive setups and the construction equipment I'm used to. I'm slowly picking things up with standard autos, and it looks like I'm about to get in and learn a little more. Thanks! I'll report back either way it goes.

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

Hey, some black rtv should work as a gasket if mine tears, right?

 

[Brains]

Ok Brains, just read about your problem. There are a couple of tools out there that ID TPMS sensors by signal frequency alone. We've got one at the shop but generally they are expensive. You will probably need to go to a tire shop and have them use it on each respective wheel. If I get some time later, I'll see if there is a manual relearn procedure that you can enable using the key/vehicle itself. I'll try to get back to ya.

Thanks for doing this, BTW.

The TPMS in the tires are fine. The relearn on these vehicles is automatic, provided all three transducers are operational. My problem is the car picks up pressure just fine - it just doesn't know which wheel is which. Basically I'm hoping there's a simpler method than brute force tearing out the fender liners to get at the transducers, and doing process of elimination to find out which of the three is dead.

 

[TexMex247]

OK shotgun J, RTV is ok but that gasket is a flaky metallic type. They can usually be reused if you are gentle with it upon disassembly. Otherwise use the RTV sparingly, some silicone based sealants are bad for oxygen sensors if they make their way through the intake.

Brains, there is a technical service bulletin for a common problem with your wireless control module AKA SKREEM module. It's number is 08-008-07, it basically describes a failure in which your WCM produces a "service tire pressure monitor system" without actually illuminating the TPM warning lamp. Not sure if that is your specific problem. By design that system does self IDs sensors when you first start the vehicle and starts taking on info after driving continuously for 10 mins at over 15mph. If I had a system fault code Of some kind I could be more helpful. Odd isue cause it should know which wheel is which within that 10 minutes of sustained driving.

 

[TexMex247]

One more thing brains, that system only places corresponding transponders in both front wheel wells and one on the right rear one. As you know though they are all hidden under the fender wells. It uses a process of elimination system to ID each wheel. I'm a bit confused as to how it could identify respective PSI's and NOT know which is which.

 

[TheDan]

Go away Dan !

Once we get the Z running good, I'll ask your advice on installing the vintage supercharger on my Lancia...

If your manifold breaks down as individual ports to carb, the spark plugs will be your most useful indicator. Otherwise a "lean drop" test can be useful. Where basically you keep leaning back until you pick up misfires then back off a little.

Yep, individual runners so it's essentially 6 little carbs. I've balanced the carbs on idle by measuring vacuum, but it's really tricky for tuning under load. I haven't thought about a "lean drop" test. I actually contemplated welding O2 sensor bungs to each runner on the exhaust manifold to help facilitate tuning, lol... It needs a new clutch and rings before I get too serious about it, tho.

 

[TheDan]

V8/4bbl conversion!!

I've contemplated it, but I actually really like the way this car is setup. I originally bought it just to part out (the carbs and manifold are worth more than the car), but I ended up liking it.

If I'm going to do an SBC swap on one of my cars it'll be the BMW simply because it's k-jetronic fuel injection is a pain to work on. I'll spare TexMex that one

 

[outdare]

I got one for you. I have a 07 expedition el. I have a ozone smell coming from the dash via a/c vents. It is worse at first start up in the morning. It is bad enough that it will make you eyes water a bit. It clears up but will return intermittently. I have tried turning off the auto headlamps and other items. I am to the point I may start pulling fuses to try to find what's going on.

 

[mitchntx]

13 GMC - max tow - 6.2L - 6sp trans

From day 1 I can't seem to ease away from a stop. It's as if the TB butterfly is bound and then opens suddenly.
The end result, with 450lbs of tq, is snapping necks and sometime TC engages.

Service guy says its normal or cannot duplicate ... last time I saw him, he rode with me, I duplicated and he said "normal" and I said "you are full of shit".
Small one dealer town and the warranty is about up.

Is it a lack of the trans downshifting all the way to first?
TPS sensor?
Accelerator pedal rheostats?
PCM update?

Thanks TM247

 

[grasshopperglock]

13 GMC - max tow - 6.2L - 6sp trans

From day 1 I can't seem to ease away from a stop. It's as if the TB butterfly is bound and then opens suddenly.
The end result, with 417 lbs of tq, is snapping necks and sometime TC engages.

Service guy says its normal or cannot duplicate ... last time I saw him, he rode with me, I duplicated and he said "normal" and I said "you are full of shit".
Small one dealer town and the warranty is about up.

Is it a lack of the trans downshifting all the way to first?
TPS sensor?
Accelerator pedal rheostats?
PCM update?

Thanks TM247

Nice try.



Lol

 

[scap99]

From talking to various vendors and first hand experience, there are really only a handful battery makers in North America. I believe one makes exide batteries(should be Napas manufacturer) another produces die hard and interstate,etc, etc. Overall, the only batteries that are a cut above are made by Optima. I used to prefer interstates but their overall quality and longevity has gone downhill.
As a matter of fact, about a decade ago, all car batteries lasted about 5 to 6 years. Now, they typically last 3 to 4. I have heard it is all about cheaper production of the lead plates inside them. However newer cars also have a lot more elctronic gadgetry which also slowly drains your battery.
So, I would either spend the big money on an optima or buy from the most convenient local vendor with the best warranty since you may need to use it. I am also a fan of serviceable batteries which allow you to top with water or electrolyte. I have been able to stretch several for 5 to 6 years by maintaining them properly. Hope that helps a bit.

Johnson Controls makes most of the batteries out there...

http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/us/en/products/power-solutions/battery-brands.html

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[scap99]

13 GMC - max tow - 6.2L - 6sp trans

From day 1 I can't seem to ease away from a stop. It's as if the TB butterfly is bound and then opens suddenly.
The end result, with 450lbs of tq, is snapping necks and sometime TC engages.

Service guy says its normal or cannot duplicate ... last time I saw him, he rode with me, I duplicated and he said "normal" and I said "you are full of shit".
Small one dealer town and the warranty is about up.

Is it a lack of the trans downshifting all the way to first?
TPS sensor?
Accelerator pedal rheostats?
PCM update?

Thanks TM247

You running a custom tune or is everything bone stock?

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[scap99]

Nice try.



Lol

I see what you did there, but it still isn't that high until upwards of 4k rpm...

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[Brains]

Wow thanks for finding that TSB. That is exactly the message, displays every time you start the car, and there is no TPMS lamp illuminated.


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