Free Auto advice from a certified mechanic !

[TexMex247]

Allright Outdare,

I would start by running through the various functions of the ac system while it is running. Hopefully as you cycle from max hot to max cold or change vent distribution you will hear the click go away. It sounds like a blend or mode door actuator is trying to find it's commanded position but can't because some teeth or broken off inside of it. If you get under the dash and put your hand on the different little black boxes(roughly the size of a pack of cigarettes) you should be able to feel the defective clicking actuator.

You could probably also perform a draw test with a test light if you have one handy. That would require removing the negative battery terminal and using the test light to bridge the terminal to the battery post. A test light brightly illuminated indicates your draw. As you pull fuses from the box(I'd start with the ac ones) you should see the light dim noticeably or go completely out. At least then you will know what system is drawing power.

The airbag light is a whole different animal and will require a code to start to diag.

 

[outdare]

I can get the clicking to go way by turning the air bag off the on. The ac will cycle between heat and cold ok. I was thinking about the key on circuit. The ac system should be off with the key off. I need to find a good circuit diagram. I'll check the blend doors. Why would the fan etc stay on when the key is off?

 

[outdare]

Also I've let the truck run for awhile to charge the battery and the air bag light has gone from solid to flashing. It flashes 3 times stops and then like 5 or so then stays solid on start up.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Also I've let the truck run for awhile to charge the battery and the air bag light has gone from solid to flashing. It flashes 3 times stops and then like 5 or so then stays solid on start up.

Morse code, duh...........

 

[outdare]

Here is a update since the truck has a charge on the battery now some of the wonky stuff has stopped. I am still getting a relay sound from under the dash. It is intermittent so I'm trying to track it down. I did some voltage checks. Battery voltage while running is 14.2, voltage output from alt is 14.3, battery voltage now is at 13.2. Looks like I'm seeing a 3 volt draw on the cables as the ground cable is disconnected.

 

[outdare]

So reconnected the battery and now the fans come back on. I think this has to do with ecm low voltage.

 

[outdare]

There is a short in the dash behind the steering wheel. I can move the wires and get the problem show itself. We have a brake booster I think that is shorted or at least some of the wiring is done. I am getting the ozone smell. I've disconnected the battery and will come to it later. Still will take any input on my analysis. Thanks

 

[TexMex247]

OK,

Looking at a wiring diagram, the blower relay is supplied by fuse 23 in the Power distibution center. That fuse is hot at all times, however, the signal to close the relay should not be present with the key off. That may indicate a stuck closed relay that is powering up that circuit of the AC at all times. Or possibly a defective ignition switch.

As far as your airbag light. The module does have self diagnostic capability and may be flashing an active fault code. They are 2 digit codes represented by 1/2 second flashes with a 2 second pause between digits. So basically four quick flashes broken up by 2 secs then 2 more rapid flashes would represent a code 42 which would repeat itself broken up by 5 second pauses. Although that may not be your exact problem.

Knowing it has an active airbag issue, I would recommend disabling the system since a light on indicates that it wont work anyways. The easiest way to do so is to remove fuses 22 and 19 from your left side under dash fuse box and fuse 2 in your power distribution center under the hood(should be a 10 amp fuse). Removing all of these will eliminate the light and possibly electrical draws from that system.

A common issue many vehicles develop is degradation of the "clockspring" which bridges the horn and airbag wiring to the rest of the system. Symptoms include intermittent horn engagement as well as airbag issue. A clockspring problem may also render the horn inoperative. Sometimes these problems are duplicated by simply turning the steering wheel lock to lock while running. The clockspring is not a cheap or easy fix but can be worked around if you need to enable your horn for inspection,etc.

Your brake booster is a mechanical component by design and should not ever effect wiring but the pushrod that engages it could be rubbing some wires under the dash.

Finally, electrical draws are measured in amps or milliamps. The voltage drop you mentioned is typical for a 12v battery that is being actively charged by an alternator then checked again after being shutoff. The voltage will drop to around 12.8V pretty quickly when shutoff and even more as the parasitic draw takes effect.

 

[outdare]

Thank you Texmex. I will look into the fuses tomorrow.

 

[outdare]

Texmex sorry the brake booster I was speaking of is the trailer break controller. It is wired under the dash just below the steering wheel. I used the wrong terminology. I haven't time to work on the truck. It is my dad's and it sits undriven alot. This last time it sat for 4 months.

 

[TexMex247]

That makes more sense. At least that should be pretty easy to sort out when you get some time. If you aren't actively towing with it, it may be best to simply unplug it.

 

[cajunautoxer]

So if my car is only driven 500 miles a yr. How often should I change oil?

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[Savage20]

Once a year is what I do. Modern oils would be fine even without a change, but what's the harm in changing every winter?

 

[TexMex247]

What kind of vehicle are you talking about Cajun? I agree with Savage that every year it should be changed at least once. The only cars I could see going any longer without harm are hi-cap diesels and some newer hybrids.

On any older vehicle, especially carbureted ones oil should be changed regularly or at least annually. Most people don't know that a secondary function of engine oil is to absorb excess fuel which eventually effects it's viscosity and overall performance. Old cars run rich when cold started(all vehicles really) and quickly dilute engine oil with un-burned fuel.

 

[scap99]

So if my car is only driven 500 miles a yr. How often should I change oil?

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I'd change it after every autocross.

 

[Charlie]

My heater ducts in my 07 Dodge 1500 6 cyl. that comes out toward the floor under the dash has ceased to open (now that it's cold!). Everything else works. I've looked and felt under the dash but can find nothing that will help. Any suggestions?

 

[Tehboogyman]

Could be a bad servo motor.

 

[Savage20]

I'd change it after every autocross.

But then autox wouldn't be cost efficient... Lol

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[TexMex247]

Charlie,

I looked up a schematic of your HVAC assembly. Unfortunately, the manufacturer suggests that none of the mode door actuators are removable without removing the entire assembly. There are 2 actuators on the drivers side of the assembly that are considered the mode door actuators. Sometimes they are accessible even when they claim they aren't. They are potentially visible from the front of the case beneath the outer dash panels.

If you are really mechanically saavy, you could potentially service it yourself. However, I will admit, underdash work is no fun at all. Aside from recovering freon and disconnecting your heater hoses, there are a series of well hidden bolts that secure the assembly to the firewall. All packed in underneath your dash. Dash removal will typically also encompass dropping the steering column and pulling just about every electrical component and switch out of the dash.

I will look up the labor time but I'm betting it's not a cheap fix.

 

[TexMex247]

Ok , looking at a labor guide it calls for 4 and a half hours to remove that actuator. It is listed as a floor/defrost door actuator. That time does reflect instrument panel removal.