Renewing a Winchester Model 61 22LR

[Dougw1515]

Boy... this is gonna be a long drawn out thread. Precision Bluing is telling me 4 months on the turn-around time due to COVID mandated shut-down earlier this year. But - tiz' what it tiz'.

No built before pictures. I've already got it in partial tear-down but below is what I have.

20201213_063855[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201213_063922[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201213_063910[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201213_063928[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Didn't you start a thread yesterday, saying that you were going to do this?

 

[Dougw1515]

Didn't you start a thread yesterday, saying that you were going to do this?

Well yes.... yes I did. Use your backroom connections and have this merged with it if that pleases you.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

I'd actually suggest providing a link to this thread in your other thread.
So people following it, won't miss it.

 

[RedArmy]

Awesome, I'll be following your build. I'm not surprised on the 4 months delay. When I had my parts blued it took one month and that was during normal times. I'm told that they only do bluing in batches so there's probably a sizeable backlog of gun projects waiting to go into the tank. It'll be worth the wait though.

 

[Axxe55]

Subbed!

 

[Charlie]

Also subbed!

 

[Axxe55]

Also subbed!

Copycat!

 

[Charlie]

Nobody cares ................. heh!

 

[Charlie]

Boy... this is gonna be a long drawn out thread. Precision Bluing is telling me 4 months on the turn-around time due to COVID mandated shut-down earlier this year. But - tiz' what it tiz'.

No built before pictures. I've already got it in partial tear-down but below is what I have.

20201213_063855[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201213_063922[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201213_063910[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201213_063928[1] by Doug Wei, on Flickr

Have you considered doing the bluing yourself?

 

[Axxe55]

Nobody cares ................. heh!

I just knew you were going to say that!

 

[Dougw1515]

Have you considered doing the bluing yourself?

Nope, never even gave it a thought. I know just enough to know that if you don't have the necessary tools, materials and experience to create a professional result - best let the professional do it. Could I do it? Yeah I suppose but to end up with the results I demand would probably cost me far more than the $250.00 I was quoted.

 

[Axxe55]

Nope, never even gave it a thought. I know just enough to know that if you don't have the necessary tools, materials and experience to create a professional result - best let the professional do it. Could I do it? Yeah I suppose but to end up with the results I demand would probably cost me far more than the $250.00 I was quoted.

A person can buy everything needed, from the chemicals to the equipment from Brownell's to do hot blueing, and have professional results with the final product, but unless you plan on doing a lot of blueing every month, or letting others do their own blueing with your equipment, it's cheaper in the long run just to farm it out if you only plan on doing a single gun or a couple of them.

 

[Dougw1515]

A person can buy everything needed, from the chemicals to the equipment from Brownell's to do hot blueing, and have professional results with the final product, but unless you plan on doing a lot of blueing every month, or letting others do their own blueing with your equipment, it's cheaper in the long run just to farm it out if you only plan on doing a single gun or a couple of them.

Yeah but... That just gets it blued. That doesn't get the blemishes removed, a uniform metal finish across all the parts/pieces, nor a uniform depth/coloring on all the pieces once completed.

 

[Axxe55]

Yeah but... That just gets it blued. That doesn't get the blemishes removed, a uniform metal finish across all the parts/pieces, nor a uniform depth/coloring on all the pieces once completed.

Exactly correct. If there are scratches or such in the metal, those have to be filed, sanded and buffed before they are put into the blueing tanks.

For the most part, you have to blue all the parts at the same time, for the same duration to gain a uniform depth of blueing. BUT, some different types of metal blue differently than others. So a person has adjust the duration sometimes.

 

[Dougw1515]

Exactly correct. If there are scratches or such in the metal, those have to be filed, sanded and buffed before they are put into the blueing tanks.

For the most part, you have to blue all the parts at the same time, for the same duration to gain a uniform depth of blueing. BUT, some different types of metal blue differently than others. So a person has adjust the duration sometimes.

Yup... That would be the professional I'm sending it to!!!

 

[Dougw1515]

So... still haven't boxed up the parts/pieces and sent'em to Precision Bluing - But I'm gonna! I did start on the wood refinishing. Got the fore grip sanded and ready for the Spar Urethane. Them there li'l grooves on the fore grip were a PITA to get uniform but get'em I did.

20201221_064519 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_064509 by Doug Wei, on Flickr


20201221_064529 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

 

[Dougw1515]

Sooo... started sanding on the butt stock. I could use my Festool sander for the larger surface areas but mostly is a "do it by hand" kinna deal.

I roughed it in with 80g paper to get to the point of the following pictures... Well some of them. I did move to 180g and will probably spend a day or two hand working with 180g before moving on to 220g which will be the final sanding prior to the spar Urethane.

20201221_080643 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_080652 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

I am running into an "issue" with the wood being oil saturated when the stock and FCG come together. Seems 72 years has allowed lubricant to totally saturate the wood right at the joint between wood n' metal. Most of it is on the underside of the stock so it won't be too noticable and may not be noticable at all. I'm using lacquer thinner and paper towels to attempt to pull out some of the oil. Meeting with some success I suppose.... But I believe the wood is fully saturated and not a matter of surface contamination.

20201221_081625 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_081637 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_082858 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_082920 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_082931 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

20201221_084155 by Doug Wei, on Flickr

 

[AZ Refugee]

heat the oil soaked area with a hair dryer or heat gun to bring the oil out and wipe off with a paper towel and repeat. You can also use acetone, but I would try the heat method first.

 

[Dougw1515]

heat the oil soaked area with a hair dryer or heat gun to bring the oil out and wipe off with a paper towel and repeat. You can also use acetone, but I would try the heat method first.

Holy chit!!!! I put heat on it and oil started dripping out... This could take awhile! But thanks for the suggestion(s)