New to Bolt-Action Rifles

[Odiferous]

Just bought a used Remington 700 in .30-06 - came with a synthetic stock and a ~$50 scope.

This is my first bolt-action rifle, and I plan to do two changes:

- New scope

- Wood stock

I'll do the scope first - does anyone know where I can find a quality wooden stock, a ballpark cost, and know whether a gunsmith would be required to change it out?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Mreed911]

Just bought a used Remington 700 in .30-06 - came with a synthetic stock and a ~$50 scope.

This is my first bolt-action rifle, and I plan to do two changes:

- New scope

- Wood stock

I'll do the scope first - does anyone know where I can find a quality wooden stock, a ballpark cost, and know whether a gunsmith would be required to change it out?

Thanks,

Mike

I'm only curious, why wood? Aesthetics?

Depending on the range you'll be shooting, something with an adjustable cheek-piece might be worthwhile.

Beyond that, glass is a highly subjective topic. I'm personally a Nikon man because it meets my needs. If I started shooting 1000 yard more often, I'd probably look at something else.

The 700 is a solid platform and 30.06 a good round. Nice choice!

 

[Odiferous]

Thanks for the info.

I want wood purely because it looks better to me - I may or may not actually do it.

I'm a serious NUG when it comes to bolt-action rifles - lots to learn.

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

I got the exact same setup minus the scope for christmas -we're in this together! I thought wood stocks helped with recoil management but synthetic stocks are lighter for the long haul.

 

[Mreed911]

Thanks for the info.

I want wood purely because it looks better to me - I may or may not actually do it.

I'm a serious NUG when it comes to bolt-action rifles - lots to learn.

Lots of good shooters here - you'll get good advice and I'll read every bit, too.

 

[baboon]

If the synthetic stock has a bedding block & it has a free floating barrel why bother? You might want to add scope rings to the scope replacement, as if the scopes that cheap the ring migh be total crap too!

 

[Odiferous]

If the synthetic stock has a bedding block & it has a free floating barrel why bother? You might want to add scope rings to the scope replacement, as if the scopes that cheap the ring migh be total crap too!

How can I determine if the rifle has a bedding block and free-floating barrel?

Like I said - new to the game - I'm sure that I can Google lots of info as well.

 

[Vec]

is it an ADL or BDL?

 

[bptactical]

Chances are it is a tupperware stock and flexible as a noodle.
Trash can it if it is, you will never provide a sound foundation for the action.
A bedding block will be easy to spot, pull the action from the stock and if there is an action length slab of aluminum in there, it has a bedding block.
If you are wanting to build an accuracy minded distance rifle forget the wooden stock, it is too susceptible to atmospheric influences (heat, humidity etc) for practical purposes.
If you are just building a make meat hunting rifle then a properly prepared wood stock is acceptable. By properly prepared I mean pillar bedded and bedded action.
But you really will get the best from the rifle with a quality composite stock that has been bedded. By bedding it you eliminate a large variable which is the action moving within the stock. A quality bedding job marries the action and stock into a homogeneous unit.
This helps with consistency and recoil management.
Something a lot of shooters don't realize- there is a difference between accuracy and consistency.
Accuracy is hitting your point of aim.
Consistency is always hitting your point of aim.
That consistency is really what you are after, the rifle has to react the same every shot, every time.

My suggestions to a new bolt shooter:
Get a quality composite stock, bed the action, make sure it has a good crown, hang a Timney or Jewell trigger, put decent glass (I agree with the Nikon selections, quality glass that won't break the bank) and go shoot it.
The biggest variable to any bolt gun is the "nut" behind the bolt.
Learn to shoot the rifle.



ADL- blind box magazine, no floor plate on the rifle.
BDL- hinged floor plate that provides access to the spring and follower

 

[Saltyag2010]

I'm thinking about something similar in .308. Boyd's makes nice looking, budget, laminate stocks. I like Nikon or leupold scopes. I know you should get good rings, but I don't know the differences.

Bp tactical- can you give examples of quality composite stocks and rings?

 

[bptactical]

If your stuck on a wood stock a laminate is the way to go, it will be much more environmentally stable.
Boyds ain't bad.
Bell and Carlson, HS Precision, Manners is always nice but way $$$, the Magpul Hunter is showing some good traits.
I have built a few rifles on these and I have really liked them, solid but not as heavy as a "Tactical" stock.
http://greybullprecision.com/products/product/34-precision-hunting-stock.html

Rings- get what works for you, no need for Nightforce or Seekins rings just yet, Warne aren't bad for the money. Leupold, Vortex are good as well.
I am a strong advocate of steel rail, steel rings. Your receiver is steel, if you go with steel for the rings and rail everything expands and contracts at the same rate minimizing zero shift and screws loosening.
Important in the Texas sun.

 

[dobarker]

Ebay works for the stock. Just search for long action 700 stock, know if you have an adl or bdl, then make sure you have the correct length action screws. If not, brownells sells over length screws that can be cut down by hacksaw and rounded out with a file. If you're in it for minute of deer accuracy, this method works fine, and can usually be done for $75 or less depending on how picky you are.
When you start trying to eek out accuracy, you can look at having the stock steel and pillar bed. This can be done by a more advanced hobbyist. Requires drilling, gouging and permanently fixing a solid epoxy and aluminum bed into your wood stock.

 

[Odiferous]

All good info - thanks a bunch.

It's an ADL - no plate on bottom. When I take possession I'dd check to see if it's bedded, etc.

At first, this will be a simple target-shooting rifle. When, or if, I get into hunting, I'll see about changing some things up. Same goes for down the road if I want to shoot longer distances.

Thanks again for all the good responses!

 

[grasshopperglock]

I have an ADL in 308. Before you chunk the plastic stock. The voids in the factory plastic stock can be filled with fiberglass resin. It'll firm it up and give that wood weight feel. It's also an easy way to balance the rifle. Easier then wood. No heavy rosewood tip to get it to balance. You can add pennies to a filled void. Add pennies to the butt of the stock cavity.

The receiver to stock fit is usually pretty Damn good and it's really easy to float the barrel. Mine fit so tight that bedding compound would be so thin, there'd be no improvement bedding the action.

You'll notice the fake pads on the stock. Forearm and grip area. Get yourself a soldering gun and stipple the pads.


The factory stock ain't junk. You can improve it a lot.

 

[Odiferous]

Thanks again for the info - if I can be consistently accurate at 300-400 meters, I probably won't mess with anything.

But if my groups are too big, I'll start doing some of these thins...or just save up to buy an already-accurate rifle :-)

Mike

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

I have a ADL in 308. Before you chunk the plastic stock. The voids in the factory plastic stock can be filled with fiberglass resin. It'll firm it up and give that wood weight feel. It's also an easy way to balance the rifle. Easier then wood. No heavy rosewood tip to get it to balance. You can add pennies to a filled void. Add pennies to the butt of the stock cavity.

The receiver to stock fit is usually pretty Damn good and it's really easy to float the barrel. Mine fit so tight that bedding compound would be so thin, there'd be no improvement bedding the action.

You'll notice the fake pads on the stock. Forearm and grip area. Get yourself a soldering gun and stipple the pads.


The factory stock ain't junk. You can improve it a lot.

I really need to get with you so you can give me a visual on this.

 

[grasshopperglock]

Tapatalk is reloading. Ill post pics here in a min.

 

[grasshopperglock]

Remmy, adl. Fixed 6 power, Japan made Weaver. Forgot the name of the rings. Picanny base. Polished action. Still has factory recalled trigger.

You can see the stipple on the grip.

"Sent from a puff of smoke"

 

[grasshopperglock]

The butt cavity is also filled with resin. Stuck an empty pill bottle in along with filling the cavity. Added weight to the empty tube(pill bottle) till it balanced after the resin dried. As I balanced, I stuck some foam in the pill bottle to hold the weight in. Then once it's balanced, I filled the tube with resin to seal the weight from jiggling around.

 

[grasshopperglock]

Balance point is the front receiver bolt. Thats with the scope, base, and rings.


Edited. I didn't use pennies. Had the idea, then, but used bird shot outta cut shell. It gave me a finer touch on the balance. Only weight added to this rifle was in the rear. None to the front. Now it comes up the shoulder smoothly and swings like a small paint brush.

"Sent from a puff of smoke"