Handloading, OCD style

[Younggun]

I would load up some more at that charge and then a few more a little higher to see if you are in the middle of the node. If all seems well I would shoot 2 5 round groups at 200 to get another feel of consistency. I wouldn't worry much about your velocity and sd or es until an accurate load is found. I keep 3 manuals on hand to reference when loading and also pull up the powder manufacturer website. Powder charge weight and velocity always very between everything but there are several factors to that.

Yeah, will probably end up running up another grain or so to see how it does.

I realize that the Chono data is fairly irrelevant to finding the most accurate load, but I'm also trying to get as much data as possible for comparison to anything I might do later.

The chase for accuracy is fun, but the information gained along the way is like crack for me. I find it all very interesting.

The chroni info will be handy to have later when I eventually start uniformity primer pockets and neck turning and experimenting with swaging.

I've already got a big binder waiting to be filled.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Cool, thanks....

 

[dee]

I'm on the fence about primer pocket uniforming as I feel like they are either uniform or not.

 

[Dawico]

I was looking for an app for android that had those features but didn't see one. I did find a good one for bullet drop though.

Strelok (red star on yellow background) is what it is called. Seems like a good app so far. I have to check into the payed version to see if it has the picture/ group functions.

 

[franzas]

I was looking for an app for android that had those features but didn't see one. I did find a good one for bullet drop though.

Strelok (red star on yellow background) is what it is called. Seems like a good app so far. I have to check into the payed version to see if it has the picture/ group functions.

Damn.

Let us know what you find

 

[dee]

I have strelok and it works ok. It is not near as refined as jbm but it is easy to use.

 

[Younggun]

I'm on the fence about primer pocket uniforming as I feel like they are either uniform or not.

I've found mixed info on a lot of stuff.

Some swear by it, others say it's a waste of time. Very little actual data to support either side.

Also gonna look in to flash a flash hole uniformer which seems like it would have more effect. Seems if a primer pocket itself was to far out it wouldn't hold the primer. But the tool would get used cause I have some .243 brass with pockets that you can barely get the primer in. Really terrible.

 

[Dawico]

I'm on the fence about primer pocket uniforming as I feel like they are either uniform or not.

I have found that the brass you use is the biggest factor in how much work you need to do. Lapua brass is very consistent. I haven't used much Federal but Hornady is pretty bad and Nosler is fairly decent.

 

[Younggun]

I'm debating on picking up a box a lapua brass once my current batch is worn out, but holy crap is it spendy.

 

[dee]

I've found mixed info on a lot of stuff.

Some swear by it, others say it's a waste of time. Very little actual data to support either side.

Also gonna look in to flash a flash hole uniformer which seems like it would have more effect. Seems if a primer pocket itself was to far out it wouldn't hold the primer. But the tool would get used cause I have some .243 brass with pockets that you can barely get the primer in. Really terrible.

I debur flash holes but that's it.

I have found that the brass you use is the biggest factor in how much work you need to do. Lapua brass is very consistent. I haven't used much Federal but Hornady is pretty bad and Nosler is fairly decent.

I refuse to use federal brass. Some have good luck with it but I've had horrible luck with splitting necks and primer pockets. I prefer winchester for a nice middle road brass but use a lot of Remington in my 22-250 since I'm worried about loosing brass while hunting. As long as you do good prep work you are good to go.

 

[Dawico]

I'm debating on picking up a box a lapua brass once my current batch is worn out, but holy crap is it spendy.

But it is worth it. They run $150/ 100 for my rifle. I haven't bought any yet for this rifle.

When I had my .308 I used Lapua. Of all 100 there was less than 1 grain difference in weight and they were annealed. They might even be closer in weight than that but I know that it was a waste of time to sort them by weight.

 

[Younggun]

The .243 brass is either Remington or Winchester. Remington I think. It's all they had at Cabelas one day.

I haven't checked the weight or anything else on it.

I chose federal for the .308 because I was able to find Federal GMM ammo during the shortage so I have it as once fired brass.

 

[Dawico]

I had Hornady .308 match as once fired also from factory ammo. Then I bought more and it was horrible. Very inconsistent. Tried the Lapua and it was like night and day.

The $150 will be money well spent when I need brass for this rifle.

 

[Younggun]

But it is worth it. They run $150/ 100 for my rifle. I haven't bought any yet for this rifle.

When I had my .308 I used Lapua. Of all 100 there was less than 1 grain difference in weight and they were annealed. They might even be closer in weight than that but I know that it was a waste of time to sort them by weight.

Holy crap, that bastard round you shoot shows $130.49/100 at Cabelas. $75 for the .308 isn't so bad now, lol.

 

[Dawico]

Holy crap, that bastard round you shoot shows $130.49/100 at Cabelas. $75 for the .308 isn't so bad now, lol.

Had it on the shelf for $144 in Buda the other day.

My bastard round might have expensive componants but atleast it is a barrel burner.

Oh, wait..........

I shoot a 6.5-284 just so everyone knows.

 

[Younggun]

Had it on the shelf for $144 in Buda the other day.

My bastard round might have expensive componants but atleast it is a barrel burner.

Oh, wait..........

I shoot a 6.5-284 just so everyone knows.

Damn rich folk

 

[Dawico]

Damn rich folk

Yeah. We will go with that.

Still on the fence about whether to rebarrel it to a more sedated round when the time comes. I guess it depends on if I buy the Lapua brass or which is needed first, brass or barrel.

 

[dee]

Yeah. We will go with that.

Still on the fence about whether to rebarrel it to a more sedated round when the time comes. I guess it depends on if I buy the Lapua brass or which is needed first, brass or barrel.

From what I've read barrel life is only really short for the br or f-class guys who will shoot strings really fast.

 

[Dawico]

From what I've read barrel life is only really short for the br or f-class guys who will shoot strings really fast.

That is how I take it also.

Reading up on reloading data shows that many guys load way over manufacturer/ SAAMI recommendations. Some are 3 or 4 grains over.

My rifle likes midrange loads so barrel life shouldn't be an issue. Only problem is I got it used and don't know it's true history.

It does have a long throat but that is common for Savage rifles in my experience.

I will probably end up getting the barrel cut down and rechambered for the same round when the time comes.

 

[Younggun]

So, I haven't forgotten about my mission.


Got another 4 batches of test rounds.

My best group last round was 43.5gr so I started with a duplicate load as a control, just in case weather conditions or something else has an effect on the accuracy of these reloads, or maybe just my shooting. From there I loaded at 44, 44.5, and 45gr.

Hope to shoot them tomorrow, trying hard to decide if I want to test at 100 again or move back to 200 for a better idea if I have two loads with very close group size.

My spotting scope isn't good enough to spot hits on the edge of the black or very close together at that range so it would mean a lot of walking.

May just stay at 100 and move back when I start fine tuning COAL and testing flash hole deburring, bullet sorting, and case sorting. Will probably test those at 300.