seeker_two
My posts don't count....
The original .357 Registered Magnum was the predecessor to the Model 27 and 28. The N-Frame was the home of the Magnum until the K-Frame was adapted to the cartridge.
Gaining interest in revolvers
- Thread starter DyeF9
- Start date
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The original .357 Registered Magnum was the predecessor to the Model 27 and 28. The N-Frame was the home of the Magnum until the K-Frame was adapted to the cartridge.
What Maverick said is spot on, but I like my 27-2. It's a big gun though. I think the L frame would be a perfect size, hence me suggesting a 686+. I've got a couple of k frames, but rarely shoot full power .357's through them.
Brilliant minds and all that stuff.
FireInTheWire
Caprock Crusader
That's one habit I never bit on. They just feel weird in my hand.
They are cool and I understand the attraction, though.
They are cool and I understand the attraction, though.
PinnedandRecessed
Allegedly
That issue was rectified a long time ago. S&W modified the crane so they no longer had to thin out the bottom of the forcing cone (where it could crack). Issue solved.
Maverick44
Youngest old man on TGT.
Sure, unless you buy one of the tens of thousands of older Model 19s on the market. There was a LOT of Model 19s made between 1957 and 1999.
They fixed the issue when they reintroduced the revolver in 2018 as the 19-9. From what I understand, every model older than that (19 through 19-8) has the flat cut out on the underside of the forcing cone. The Model 19 is a fine gun, but it's not perfect. If you want a heavy duty magnum revolver that you can shoot full house loads in all day long, get a different gun. If you have an older Model 19, be nice to it and save the magnums for the L and N frames.
So when and where is Let OP Shoot all Manner of Revolvers Range Day gonna happen?
Yes.
Prior to the mid to late 1950’s, S&W did not use model number designations. They used names on the guns.
The gun we know as the Model 27 was called The “S&W .357 Magnum”.
When the Model 19 came out there was a need to identify the various .357 models so the model number thing began.
The “registered magnum” was a special hand selected and finished gun. It cost a lot more than a standard 27. These are uber collectible nowadays.
The 27 could be special ordered with any barrel length in blue or nickel finish.
The 28 was a lesser refined hence less expensive version intended for a working cops weapon.
The 19 proved very popular with PD’s as well.
PinnedandRecessed
Allegedly
Your ommitance of the fix would lead someone that didn't know of it to believe it is still an issue for new production revolvers.
Maverick44
Youngest old man on TGT.
And your claim that the issue was "rectified a long time ago" would lead someone to believe that it really wasn't an issue despite "a long time ago" only being two years.
For the overwhelming vast majority of Model 19s, it is still an issue. Not everyone will want to buy a new S&W. The used ones are generally cheaper, and just have something special about them. Surely someone a username like yours can understand an appreciation for classic S&Ws.
I really don't care to argue over something as petty as this. Between the two of us, I feel that the OP probably learned more about the Model 19 than he ever cared to. I think it's best if we leave the argument where it is and move on.
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How many rounds does it take to bust that? I've got an older 19-4 that isn't cracked, wondering how many full loads it takes to destroy it?
I’ve always heard the classic 125grn semi-jacketed .357mag round was the culprit on the M19 barrel split issue.
My old 19 had a bazillion rounds thru it without an issue but I avoided that particular round as much as possible.
Mostly I shot .38’s in it.
Serious nuke’em from orbit monkey death car OMFGWTFOVERBBQ loads went thru the 28.
My old 19 had a bazillion rounds thru it without an issue but I avoided that particular round as much as possible.
Mostly I shot .38’s in it.
Serious nuke’em from orbit monkey death car OMFGWTFOVERBBQ loads went thru the 28.
Keep your 19 free of lead build up and you should have no problem. I have a friend you put thousands of rounds thru a 19 with no problem. Switch to +P .38 specials if you are worried. A dirty gun and 125gr .357 s seems to be the culprit for a cracked cone.
Axxe55
Retiretgtshit stirrer
IF you are wanting to feed a pistol a lot of hotter 357 ammo, I too would highly suggest the 27 or the 28 over the L and K frames.
A breakdown of the frame designations.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson#Revolvers
I like the N frames, but I do prefer the K frames personally, and have owned L and K frame revolvers over the years.
A breakdown of the frame designations.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson#Revolvers
I like the N frames, but I do prefer the K frames personally, and have owned L and K frame revolvers over the years.
Much truth.
I find OP’s failure to name a range day most disturbing.
Maverick44
Youngest old man on TGT.
It varies. I know several people who have shot magnums out of them for years without issues. Others have had them crack pretty quickly. I don't know why some last years or even decades and others don't. I hear about the older models cracking more than the newer ones. I don't know if it's just the fact that they're older and have been shot more, or if the metallurgy of the steel they use for the barrels was improved.
The hot 125gr loads will magnify the issue, but I have read first hand accounts of people who have shot nothing but cast 150-158gr loads in them and still had it crack.
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