Texas gun talk pets

[thescoutranch]

Ok guys, I'd really appreciate your opinion on something.

The 2 cleared acres around our house is fenced, gated.

Duke can belly crawl under it; he's done it 3 times now - but always crawled back in on his own, after maybe 10 minutes. One time he crawled out the backside, did who knows what, but crawled back in under the driveway gate out front. We've since lowered the gate, found a couple 'easy spots' on the fence and patched those with more fencing... and if we were rich (we're not) I'd have the bottom of the whole fence line brought down and secured somehow.

I will NOT chain him up; we are both retired so there's no reason to leave him alone (inside or outside) for any length of time. We did put a 6x8 kennel on the carport for our own emergencies, like if we both had to leave at the same time for a couple hours.

We're talking about a perimeter system with those shock collar things... which I really dont want to do for a couple reasons: I think he's too young (4mo) but maybe that's not too young, I just dont know. Another reason, and the biggest for me, is that he's doing really well otherwise and if for some reason the collar didn't work - wouldn't he, after escaping, be like 'there's places in there that hurt me, why would I go back?' Especially with his very recent history of buckshot.

We dont leave him out alone/unmonitored - but he's so damn fast, lol, if/when he heads for the fence line my old bones wouldn't get to him quick enough... but our phone number is on his collar, and I'm putting in the work needed otherwise - which I'll keep doing whatever happens or is decided.

Any input would be very appreciated, especially about the shock collar idea.

Many Thanks ~

I know, TGT has been using one of those shock, collars on @Moonpie for the last couple years to try to break him of his glock, habit, with no success.

If you were out there with your dog, I would look into the shock collar with the remote control button. One button gives an audible alarm, second button, give some mild shock, third button gives a more severe shock.

The theory is when they start the bad behavior, like trying to skirt under the fence you give him the audible alarm if he keeps going, then you follow it with a shock.

The dog learns that the audible beep is a warning before the shock, so he learns to stop the behavior when he hears the beep, and eventually learns to stop the behavior at all.

 

[MountainGirl]

Instead of the shock collar, I recommend just a standard electric fence but with the wire located near the bottom of the fence. It won’t take but a couple times and Duke’s ideas about breaking out will no longer be at the forefront of his mind.

Thanks, that's not a bad idea... hmmm....

 

[MountainGirl]

I know, TGT has been using one of those shock, collars on @Moonpie for the last couple years to try to break him of his glock, habit, with no success.

If you were out there with your dog, I would look into the shock collar with the remote control button. One button gives an audible alarm, second button, give some mild shock, third button gives a more severe shock.

The theory is when they start the bad behavior, like trying to skirt under the fence you give him the audible alarm if he keeps going, then you follow it with a shock.

The dog learns that the audible beep is a warning before the shock, so he learns to stop the behavior when he hears the beep, and eventually learns to stop the behavior at all.

Thanks! We explored those kind and they'd work as long as Duke was in sight. There's a portion of the fence (200') that is IN the thicket (along the road) where he likes to hide & poop... but otherwise he'd be in sight... hmmm... maybe reinforcing the fence just on that run... hmmm...

 

[Hoji]

Ok guys, I'd really appreciate your opinion on something.

The 2 cleared acres around our house is fenced & gated; we're like an island in the Thicket.

Duke can belly crawl under it; he's done it 3 times now - but always crawled back in on his own, after maybe 10 minutes. One time he crawled out the backside, did who knows what, but crawled back in under the driveway gate out front. We've since lowered the gate, found a couple 'easy spots' on the fence and patched those with more fencing... and if we were rich (we're not) I'd have the bottom of the whole fence line brought down and secured somehow.

I will NOT chain him up; we are both retired so there's no reason to leave him alone (inside or outside) for any length of time. We did put a 6x8 kennel on the carport for our own emergencies, like if we both had to leave at the same time for a couple hours.

We're talking about a perimeter system with those shock collar things... which I really dont want to do for a couple reasons: I think he's too young (4mo) but maybe that's not too young, I just dont know. Another reason, and the biggest for me, is that he's doing really well otherwise (no bad habits) and if for some reason the collar didn't work - wouldn't he, after escaping, be like 'there's places in there that hurt me, why would I go back?' Especially with his very recent history of buckshot.

We dont leave him out alone/unmonitored - but he's so damn fast, lol, if/when he heads for the fence line my old bones wouldn't get to him quick enough... but our phone number is on his collar, and I'm putting in the work needed otherwise - which I'll keep doing whatever happens or is decided.

Any input would be very appreciated, especially about the shock collar idea.

Many Thanks ~

Paving stones around the perimeter of your fence.

 

[MountainGirl]

Paving stones around the perimeter of your fence.

Thanks! Never thought of that. I wonder if there'd be a way to really secure them to the fence. He's strong enough now to just dig them out of his way. Other than a shock collar that might be the least expensive... we're looking at 1400+ feet of fence. I'll price that out this morning, along with the cost of Tip's idea of elec fence.

Whats your take on using a shock collar (either perimeter or remote) on Duke at this age, etc?

 

[bigtex10mm]

I had the same problem with a previous pet. We set up the single strand of electric fence and tied orange surveyors ribbon about every 3 feet to condition the pooch to stay away from the fence. After he got "bit" a couple of times we shut off the electricity and he never went under the fence again. If you go the electric fence route, make sure you get an "always on" instead of a "pulse" fence. The pulse is much more powerful and it defeats the training if they touch it and do not get a shock.

 

[Army 1911]

I had a great Dane who was stubborn. Tried a shock collar and even at the highest setting it didn't really bother him even enough to momentarily distract him.

 

[MountainGirl]

I had the same problem with a previous pet. We set up the single strand of electric fence and tied orange surveyors ribbon about every 3 feet to condition the pooch to stay away from the fence. After he got "bit" a couple of times we shut off the electricity and he never went under the fence again. If you go the electric fence route, make sure you get an "always on" instead of a "pulse" fence. The pulse is much more powerful and it defeats the training if they touch it and do not get a shock.

How far off the ground did you put it?

 

[bigtex10mm]

How far off the ground did you put it?

4" and you have to keep gras cut under it.

 

[jrbfishn]

As long as they can see the electric wire and not avoid touching it if they try to go under the fence it will work. Once he gets bigger, if he trys junping it, you may need a strand on top as well. Do the same as the bottom. Place it where he can't avoid touching it if he trys to jump the fence.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[deemus]

Ok guys, I'd really appreciate your opinion on something.

The 2 cleared acres around our house is fenced & gated; we're like an island in the Thicket.

Duke can belly crawl under it; he's done it 3 times now - but always crawled back in on his own, after maybe 10 minutes. One time he crawled out the backside, did who knows what, but crawled back in under the driveway gate out front. We've since lowered the gate, found a couple 'easy spots' on the fence and patched those with more fencing... and if we were rich (we're not) I'd have the bottom of the whole fence line brought down and secured somehow.

I will NOT chain him up; we are both retired so there's no reason to leave him alone (inside or outside) for any length of time. We did put a 6x8 kennel on the carport for our own emergencies, like if we both had to leave at the same time for a couple hours.

We're talking about a perimeter system with those shock collar things... which I really dont want to do for a couple reasons: I think he's too young (4mo) but maybe that's not too young, I just dont know. Another reason, and the biggest for me, is that he's doing really well otherwise (no bad habits) and if for some reason the collar didn't work - wouldn't he, after escaping, be like 'there's places in there that hurt me, why would I go back?' Especially with his very recent history of buckshot.

We dont leave him out alone/unmonitored - but he's so damn fast, lol, if/when he heads for the fence line my old bones wouldn't get to him quick enough... but our phone number is on his collar, and I'm putting in the work needed otherwise - which I'll keep doing whatever happens or is decided.

Any input would be very appreciated, especially about the shock collar idea.

Many Thanks ~

If you have not already done so, get him chipped, and be sure to register it with your contact info. Lots of dogs get returned these days thanks to chip technology.

 

[Hoji]

Thanks! Never thought of that. I wonder if there'd be a way to really secure them to the fence. He's strong enough now to just dig them out of his way. Other than a shock collar that might be the least expensive... we're looking at 1400+ feet of fence. I'll price that out this morning, along with the cost of Tip's idea of elec fence.

Whats your take on using a shock collar (either perimeter or remote) on Duke at this age, etc?

Spray them with pepper spray ( make your own and put it in a spray bottle) don’t need to do the whole fence, just where he is going over.

Another idea

make a cinder block planter that spans the fence.
Ours has black berries in the big area and all of the holes in blocks get climbing stuff( cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, etc ) near the fence and okra and such away from the fence.

 

[leVieux]

Instead of the shock collar, I recommend just a standard electric fence but with the wire located near the bottom of the fence. It won’t take but a couple times and Duke’s ideas about breaking out will no longer be at the forefront of his mind.

<>

We have the “PetSafe” radio fence, no wire needed. It is great, and it travels easily.

The dog learned quickly, he gets both sound & vibration “warnings’ B/F ANY SHOCK.

We take it for travel, radius allowed & shock levels are both adjustable.

leVieux
.

 

[MountainGirl]

If you have not already done so, get him chipped, and be sure to register it with your contact info. Lots of dogs get returned these days thanks to chip technology.

YES! The shelter chipped him, and he is registered to me.

I know, whatever we do, he'll eventually get out; my goal is two-pronged: delay/prevent that if possible for as long as possible - and then hope he returns, either on his own or with human help. It'll all work out, whatever comes.

 

[leVieux]

I know, TGT has been using one of those shock, collars on @Moonpie for the last couple years to try to break him of his glock, habit, with no success.

If you were out there with your dog, I would look into the shock collar with the remote control button. One button gives an audible alarm, second button, give some mild shock, third button gives a more severe shock.

The theory is when they start the bad behavior, like trying to skirt under the fence you give him the audible alarm if he keeps going, then you follow it with a shock.

The dog learns that the audible beep is a warning before the shock, so he learns to stop the behavior when he hears the beep, and eventually learns to stop the behavior at all.

<>

Yes, we have those, too.

They are now called “TRAINING” collars.

I suggest NOT buying the “entry-level” or cheapest one.

All the Pro Trainers we’ve used have them. So, when my dog sees me reaching for any device worn on a neck cord, he responds; even when. neither of us is wearing the devices !

I very rarely must “shock”.

leVieux

 

[Hoji]

YES! The shelter chipped him, and he is registered to me.

I know, whatever we do, he'll eventually get out; my goal is two-pronged: delay/prevent that if possible for as long as possible - and then hope he returns, either on his own or with human help. It'll all work out, whatever comes.

With the cinder block planter, you can plant some stuff in the block openings that both vine, and act as a deterrent scent wise ( or thorn wise) to your dog

 

[BRD@66]

Single strand of barb wire at ground level inside the fence.

 

[Hoji]

Single strand of barb wire at ground level inside the fence.

A kangal will just eat the barbed wire and make a spiky pile to clean up later

 

[MountainGirl]

Single strand of barb wire at ground level inside the fence.

Thanks! I thought about that. Right now, the fence is 6' high - 5 of welded wire and a double row of barb above that. There may come a time when he tries to jump over it, but not yet. I dont know if barb at the bottom will stop this 4 month old 40lb pup...especially
with that thick fur. It might be a shock collar wont get through that thick fur either.

Time to make some calls & get a price on a thousand cinder blocks.

 

[Byrd666]

A low voltage single strand of electric fence wire, about 4 to 6 inches up and about the same in from the fence should work. And it can run off the solar battery with minimal drain.