Never slapped together an AR.

[smittyb]

Gas port position was designed around Mil ammo for a 10k psi at the port. Same with buffer/spring and BCG. Civies changed a bunch of stuff to 'tune' the gun - but it doesn't really need much.

Only the original 20” barrel rifles were designed to have 10k psi port pressure.
With the M4 redesign they were forced into a carbine length system due to M203 grenade launcher cut on the barrel. Subsequently, it has a 17K psi port pressure.
I believe it was Armalite who pioneered the mid length system in the late 90s.

 

[smittyb]

I have this I got in a trade for a boltgun. It's alot lighter then the heavy barrel Rock River one I sold due to weight and the amount I got for it
when the panic set in a few years ago. .
This current one is mostly Palmetto with a Spikes BCG.

Man, a riser AND a one piece mount?
A better stock with an improved cheekweld would probably allow you to ditch the riser.
I would also definitely try out a different grip. I have come to really like reduced angle grips.

 

[Moonpie]

OP needs to carry all that girliemon stuff out back and throw it in the drainage ditch.

Then go buy an M1 Garand.

 

[A1Oni]

Mid or rifle length gas system is just personal preference? Or do they function differently?

mid length gas tends to function alot smoother and is less harsher on the gun, carbine gas can be just as smooth but you gotta adjust the buffer weights typically and it also depends on barrel length, for example a gun with a really short barrel running carbine gas will wear alot faster than a rifle with a 16 inch barrel and middy gas.

 

[A1Oni]

I myself have built and continue to build monstrosities.

 

[Lonesome Dove]

OP needs to carry all that girliemon stuff out back and throw it in the drainage ditch.

Then go buy an M1 Garand.

I bought an M1A and never shot it because I knew it was gonna break my bank with ammo. Turned around and sold it. I'm just looking for something to work on this summer because I'm not able to work outside in the heat and humidity much anymore. It's like being a racecar driver and having to just watch on TV.

 

[zackmars]

Real avid has a good little punch and mallet set as well that has a specific punch just for the bolt catch. I still managed to put a small scratch in mine. But I don’t really care. It’s not a showpiece.


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I've broken the real avid sets, the Brownells ones are much more durable and tolerant of an off axis hammer hit, so I prefer them.

 

[Maverick44]

There are so many FkN different options on every end of these things.
I want a 16" with full length guard????, irons????,stock????, trigger????,trigger gaurd????, bcg????,grip????, flash????,break????,this????,that????.

What precisely do you want the gun for? Plinking, hunting, long range, home defense, SBR, supressed, LARPing ?

I've built several for a wide variety of roles. I can give you some recommendations.

 

[Lonesome Dove]

Just a shooter.. not interested in suppressed or SBRs.

 

[zackmars]

There are so many FkN different options on every end of these things.
I want a 16" with full length guard????, irons????,stock????, trigger????,trigger gaurd????, bcg????,grip????, flash????,break????,this????,that????.

A 16" barrel, mid length gas, 12"-13" handguard, collapsible stock, flash hider is just about the perfect "do all" ar

 

[A1Oni]

Just a shooter.. not interested in suppressed or SBRs.

hell, you could build a retro gun or if you have the dough

https://palmettostatearmory.com/blem-harrington-richardson-723-style-carbine-5-56mm-rifle-black.html

 

[Maverick44]

Just a shooter.

Then you really can't go wrong. Pick a 16" barrel from a good manufacture like Faxon or Ballistic Advantage. Gas length doesn't matter all that much. All of my 16" rifles have a mid length gas system. If you think the gun needs a little more oomph to run more reliably, you can play with the weight of the buffer. Generally, you can expect an H1 or H2 buffer to run just fine with a 16" midlength. It's hard to beat a classic birdcage flash hider for the muzzle device. I've used comps on a 5.56 before, and the main thing they did was make the concussive blast from the barrel unpleasant to be near.

Pick a free float handguard in whatever length you think looks best and covers the gas block. Some like them short, some like them long. Midwest Industries is generally what I go with, but there's a lot of good brands

For the grip and stock, it's purely personal preference. I tend to stick to Magpul MOEs for the grip. They feel nice, and they're cheap. I've tried the rubberized ones. They're fine, but I just don't personally care for the feel of rubber. For the stock, Magpul makes a lot of nice ones. It's hard to go wrong with an SLR or a CTR. The B5 SOPMOD stocks are also very nice. A little chunky, and a bit on the heavy side, but very nice to use. They're a little pricey though.

The trigger is one thing I will highly recommend you upgrade from the standard milspec one. LaRue MBT-2S triggers are incredibly nice for the money. All but one of my ARs has one, and the one that doesn't, has a trigger that is more than twice as expensive but only marginally nicer. It's worth getting.

Optics are again, personal preference. I tend to go with LPVOs like the Burris RT-6 just because my eyes aren't the best. It's easier for me to make hits with one than a red dot at longer ranges. You can't beat a red dot for close up work though. Wether you want irons or not is up to you. I think most are moving away from them, even as backup sights.

This is my all-arounder.

B5 Systems enhanced SOPMOD stock
Magpul MOE grip
Magpul enhanced trigger guard
Larue MBT-2S trigger
Toolcraft BCG
Midwest Industries slim line handguard (IIRC, it's the 12.625")
Magpul type 2 rail covers
Magpul MVG vertical grip
Magpul offset light mount
Streamlight ProTac HL-X light
A2 birdcage flash hider
Ballistic Advantage modern series 16" barrel
Ferro Concepts Slingster sling
Vortex Strike Eagle LPVO (the Burris and Primary Arms LPVOs are better)

I don't remember what lower parts kit is in it, but it's probably one from Aero or Spikes. I also don't remember off the top of my head what the buffer is, but it's probably an H2. Maybe an H1.

 

[paknheat]

View attachment 393704
I myself have built and continue to build monstrosities.

I like it. What is the light & mount you have on it?


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[Chewbacca7685]

FYI guys, Primary Arms has some screaming deals on barrels right now if anyone needs one. BA pencils and government profiles for under $100. I’m grabbing a 16” BA Hanson. They have the lightweight version for $139 with a pinned gas block.


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[A1Oni]

I like it. What is the light & mount you have on it?


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its a streamlight I bought second hand with a cloud defensive mount iirc.

 

[TheMailMan]

FYI guys, Primary Arms has some screaming deals on barrels right now if anyone needs one. BA pencils and government profiles for under $100. I’m grabbing a 16” BA Hanson. They have the lightweight version for $139 with a pinned gas block.


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I need to go out and get a count of how many spare barrels I have.

 

[paveknife]

Not sure if I'm too late... You ***CAN*** assemble an AR with just an armorer's wrench, but once you do it once you won't really want to ever again. I would suggest for repeatability, you'll want an upper and lower vise block, roll pin installation kit, armorer's wrench, torque wrench, castle nut wrench, delta ring tool, an allen wrench set, and hammer and punch for staking.

Think of the tools as an investment. If you use them once, it all seems pretty expensive. If you use it to build multiple AR's or if you want to modify your existing ARs - or if you need to fix stuff - it'll pay for itself with one gunsmith visit.

 

[chas019]

Thanks for all the help.
Looking around at offerings and I think I'm gonna do a PSA parts build for my first attempt since it can be a one shot order if all is in stock. Is there somewhere else I should look? Oh and yeah, budget matters.

get a oops parts kit, it has the parts you might loose unless you are working in a all white enviorment 20 x 20 room.

 

[chas019]

actually after building a few lowers and uppers, lately I just mod the ones I have or a new one I just got but still I use nearly all the tools already listed. Even before building ars it was aks or some demilled parts kit so I already had the regular tools so if you think you might get the bug it will make the job more fun to just start out with the upper and lower blocks and the other tools specific to the ar. A good shop can never have too many tools till you are gone and your kids gotta figure out what they are worth.

 

[Lonesome Dove]

Not sure if I'm too late... You ***CAN*** assemble an AR with just an armorer's wrench, but once you do it once you won't really want to ever again. I would suggest for repeatability, you'll want an upper and lower vise block, roll pin installation kit, armorer's wrench, torque wrench, castle nut wrench, delta ring tool, an allen wrench set, and hammer and punch for staking.

Think of the tools as an investment. If you use them once, it all seems pretty expensive. If you use it to build multiple AR's or if you want to modify your existing ARs - or if you need to fix stuff - it'll pay for itself with one gunsmith visit.

I do have a shit load of smithing tools.
Made my own barrel nut wrench for a Savage. Have barrel vise and action vise I made way back when. In truth I'm Sure I'll have no problem just wanted some insider tips. THANKS to All!