high mileage oil and bosch filters

[TX69]

I am always amazed how emotional people get over oil and filters.

Fram is one of the worst filters out there.

 

[M. Sage]

I am always amazed how emotional people get over oil and filters.

Fram is one of the worst filters out there.

+1.

Oil brand matters almost not at all. Get a synthetic that matches what your car calls for as far as viscosity. Use it. If your car has special specs (like VW/Audi, Porsche, etc.), make sure the oil meets them. If there are different choices for viscosity, generally go for the lightest, especially in the cold number (first one).

You can't go wrong with the OE filter. Wix is a reasonable alternative.

K&N air filters are garbage. They barely filter, and have no upside to balance it, especially on a car that's stock. I have no idea on their oil filters, but how bad their air filters are doesn't give me much confidence.

 

[camd64]

I have never seen any proof that high mileage oil benefits or fixes an engine. Things like zinc are used as an anti-wear additive but I have only heard that benefits older flat tappets engines. And even then it's really only ones that need it because of high lift cams and increased valve spring pressure. I have been rebuilding, restoring, and modifying mostly 60's-70's american cars for over ten years now. Plenty of engine and transmission rebuilds along the way. To be honest I don't consider 150k to be high mileage at all. I didn't ditch my slant 6 till it had almost 300k, smoked a little on hard acceleration but still ran great. Run a good filter and oil and change it on time. I have always run Wix or Baldwin filters and never had an issue. Wix filters are used in premium Carquest and Napa product lines.

 

[WNRB]

Ditto on the Bob is the oil guy site.

As for what to use I do not own a Mitsubishi, but I can tell you that "WIX" has some of the best filters out on the market vs. Fram or say K&N even.
As for oil I recently posted a thread about my fuel mileage on a few other sites I go to. I will share with you then you can decide.
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Copy & Pasted from other posts I made:

Don't know if anyone has tried this yet.... and I am not one to fall into "Hype", but since I switched to Pennzoil "Ultra" (Now full time) and adding ZMax my gas mileage has gone from 19.5 to 19.9 mpg. That may not sound like a big difference to some but there is still something to be said for that. I have been using it now for awhile and the result has been a positive one IMO. Not saying that the other brands used before were bad they have all been great: (aka: Lucas Oil, Pennzoil "Platinum", Mobil 1 for ex.), However I switched to Pennzoil "Ultra" about 6 oil changes ago on my '06 Ford Mustang GT Coupe (Modified) and that has been the result. (Started to see results in the 1st oil change for the record.)

Results as follows:
1st oil change with ZMax engine formula: 19.5 mpg-19.7 mpg after 2k miles.
2nd oil change no ZMax (Only use every 6k miles): Steady 19.7 mpg.
3rd oil change again w/ ZMax: jumped from 19.7- Steady 19.9 and still holding.
Just thought I would pass that along.
Thanks.
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This is no joke... before this driving around my Mustang only could manage around 19.5, now steady as I said 19.9 mpg.
Full synth. oils are really the way to go and no you do not have to use a High Mileage oil in your high mileage vehicle. For the record the High Mileage oil is also no gimmick, they do have certain traits that benefit older vehicles.
(I do use WIX, Motorcraft, and Ford Racing Oil filters.... so in your case the WIX would work.) > Also for the record there is no "Magic Fix it with this" simply add this additive to your engine, power steering, etc.. out on the market that will actually fix the problem. If you have loss of power and compression that is a problem that simply needs to be fixed.

Good Luck.

 

[M. Sage]

.4MPG over how much time/miles? That's kind of a small figure, which makes it extremely hard to confirm.

 

[stdreb27]

Enough time to breakdown and not lubricate like its suppose to? It should be doing that better when its new, not after 5000 miles. If that was the case then they'd sell used oil.

lol they do sell used motor oil...

Recycled Motor Oil | Find 50 Percent Recycled Oil in Valvoline NextGen

Use Wix, if it works for nascar it works for me...

 

[stdreb27]

Great info Joe! I have been told by pretty much everyone that once you go synthetic, you can't go back. That's been the primary reason I haven't gone that route-I've been told if you go back, then you're very likely to have seals start leaking or going out. Since I never know if or when I'll be down and out, I didn't want to get myself into something that I can't afford down the road.

All I have to say about Jiffy Lube is AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS! Dateline did a series of investigative reports on them and has exposed them nationwide as being a bunch of scam artists. I'm not talking just about them recommending you come in more than you have to-there's an entire series of videos on youtube of them not changing out filters that have been marked with paint markers, them charging for a tranny flush and not even unplugging the machine from the wall, and them saying how a car needs a service so bad when in fact, it doesn't. If you're the type that just want's to go to the shop, I recommend either your dealership, or Midas. I've never had any problems with Midas-great guys and have a $20 oil change. They'll even use your oil and filter and discount the price if you're just feeling lazy. Dealerships are cool, but I think they charge a bit much and I also have caught a few workers in the oil change bay that didn't know much outside of their job. They seem to know all about changing the oil (even if they're a little slow sometimes but that's ok on a light day), but then another part of that oil change that you're paying for is a lube job. I had two guys skip over my lube job with me standing right there. The second guy told me that my blazer doesn't need it. I then proceeded to point him to all my grease points on my steering setup. Soooo....yea-anytime I pay someone else to do the work, I always take care to watch them. lol

that can happen at any oil lube shop. Most of them are run off commission. They pay some guy minimum wage. But he get a couple bucks if he sells you wipers, or something else.

 

[Leper]

There is a difference between high mileage and regular oils. They are formulated differently. They are intended to be better.

yes, the 3000 mile change is a myth. Most manufactures have had 6-7K as the interval for years. Many now come with an electronic display for oil life that will alert you, based on your driving habits, when you need to change it. It is not just mileage dependent now.

synthetic blends can have from 5% to 20% synthetic added to them.it is a crap shoot to which has more. It has been my experience that penzoil has the highest published content.

Normal to synthetic and back can be ok, or they can be bad. The oil itself is where the problems can be. If you switch brands even on traditional oils, it is generally bad due to the formulas between the two. One oil can have compounds that will strip off the compounds left by the last oil. Staying with one oil through the life of the car is the best thing you can do. Synthetic or otherwise.

viscosity...0w20, 15w50 shows what the oil is supposed to do when cold and hot. This is important. You don't want to go too thick at startup or too thin at temperature. Some synthetics are better at this and you can go thinner. Older cars with high mileage can sometimes benefit from a slightly thicker oil. Slight damage to bearing clearance can be masked by running a thicker oil.

the actual difference between synthetic and regular oil is the molecule itself. Oil molecules look like a tree trunk with branches. This determines how the oil flows over itself. Think of a bunch of trees trying to roll down a mountain. The fewer branches the have, the better they will roll down a mountain. The more branches, the harder it is to consistently roll. Conventional oil has the most branches to begin with and adding additives gives it more. Synthetic has less branches to begin with. When you go all the way up the food chain to amsiol(which starts out as natural gas, not oil) it's base looks like a fence post with branches only added for additives.

yes, I have researched this at length before. Lol

 

[M. Sage]

There is a difference between high mileage and regular oils. They are formulated differently. They are intended to be better.

yes, the 3000 mile change is a myth. Most manufactures have had 6-7K as the interval for years. Many now come with an electronic display for oil life that will alert you, based on your driving habits, when you need to change it. It is not just mileage dependent now.

synthetic blends can have from 5% to 20% synthetic added to them.it is a crap shoot to which has more. It has been my experience that penzoil has the highest published content.

Normal to synthetic and back can be ok, or they can be bad. The oil itself is where the problems can be. If you switch brands even on traditional oils, it is generally bad due to the formulas between the two. One oil can have compounds that will strip off the compounds left by the last oil. Staying with one oil through the life of the car is the best thing you can do. Synthetic or otherwise.

viscosity...0w20, 15w50 shows what the oil is supposed to do when cold and hot. This is important. You don't want to go too thin at startup or too thick at temperature. Some synthetics are better at this and you can go thinner. Older cars with high mileage can sometimes benefit from a slightly thicker oil. Slight damage to bearing clearance can be masked by running a thicker oil.

the actual difference between synthetic and regular oil is the molecule itself. Oil molecules look like a tree trunk with branches. This determines how the oil flows over itself. Think of a bunch of trees trying to roll down a mountain. The fewer branches the have, the better they will roll down a mountain. The more branches, the harder it is to consistently roll. Conventional oil has the most branches to begin with and adding additives gives it more. Synthetic has less branches to begin with. When you go all the way up the food chain to amsiol(which starts out as natural gas, not oil) it's base looks like a fence post with branches only added for additives.

yes, I have researched this at length before. Lol

Reverse that. You want thinner cold so it'll flow, and thicker hot, though I've read papers that suggests there's not as much difference between different viscosities at operating temperature as there is at low temperature.

 

[Leper]

Reverse that. You want thinner cold so it'll flow, and thicker hot, though I've read papers that suggests there's not as much difference between different viscosities at operating temperature as there is at low temperature.

Thanks for the catch. Corrected. I will agree with your statement also.

 

[40Arpent]

Great info Joe! I have been told by pretty much everyone that once you go synthetic, you can't go back. That's been the primary reason I haven't gone that route-I've been told if you go back, then you're very likely to have seals start leaking or going out. Since I never know if or when I'll be down and out, I didn't want to get myself into something that I can't afford down the road.

All I have to say about Jiffy Lube is AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS! Dateline did a series of investigative reports on them and has exposed them nationwide as being a bunch of scam artists. I'm not talking just about them recommending you come in more than you have to-there's an entire series of videos on youtube of them not changing out filters that have been marked with paint markers, them charging for a tranny flush and not even unplugging the machine from the wall, and them saying how a car needs a service so bad when in fact, it doesn't. If you're the type that just want's to go to the shop, I recommend either your dealership, or Midas. I've never had any problems with Midas-great guys and have a $20 oil change. They'll even use your oil and filter and discount the price if you're just feeling lazy. Dealerships are cool, but I think they charge a bit much and I also have caught a few workers in the oil change bay that didn't know much outside of their job. They seem to know all about changing the oil (even if they're a little slow sometimes but that's ok on a light day), but then another part of that oil change that you're paying for is a lube job. I had two guys skip over my lube job with me standing right there. The second guy told me that my blazer doesn't need it. I then proceeded to point him to all my grease points on my steering setup. Soooo....yea-anytime I pay someone else to do the work, I always take care to watch them. lol

The Jiffy Lube fiasco was resolved, and you're now no more at risk there than any other service center (Midas and dealerships included).

 

[M. Sage]

The Jiffy Lube fiasco was resolved, and you're now no more at risk there than any other service center (Midas and dealerships included).

I wouldn't say that, though I would put Midas on par with Jiffy Lube and all the other crappy chain stores. And yes, many dealerships' quick service stuff is just as bad (they don't usually make real techs do crap like oil changes).

I've seen far too many stripped drain plugs from Jiffy Lube, Walmart, Midas, etc. to think otherwise. And I'm not just talking rounded corners. I mean you remove the drain plug and the threads in the oil pan come with it. I swear, the apes at those places use 1/2" impacts to put the drain plug in, hoping more torque will keep it from leaking instead of just putting a new $.05 drain plug washer on the goddamn car like they should.

 

[stdreb27]

Lol the last car I looked at that I know had been serviced at Walmart had gasket sealer around the drain plug.

Actually, as far as Midas goes, the one Midas we had as an installer customer was possibly the most kind ethical hard working customer we had.

 

[M. Sage]

Midas can be very (extremely!) hit or miss because it's a franchise setup. I worked at a couple under different franchisees when I was younger. Both sucked pretty bad... Got myself in trouble for refusing to do half-ass work that would result in a comeback under one of them.

 

[ceska]

I had a 2004 Chevy Duramax diesel that I ran Amsoil 15w-40 in for about 90,000 miles while I had it from 2007 until late 2012. I switched it over to the Amsoil synthetics because I put so much mileage on the truck on a monthly basis and didn't like changing the oil all the time. In conventional oil I was looking at changing out every 5,000 miles. I started out running the Amsoil for 15,000 miles between oil changes and changed out a Wix filter every 5,000 miles, and added enough oil to get me back up to normal operating level. Later on I switched to Hastings filters and started changing out the filter every 7,500 miles and the oil at 15,000 miles. Started reading that the oil ought to be good for 25,000 miles so I decided to give it a try. I later on switched to Amsoil filters and would change the filter at 12,500 miles and the oil at 25,000. Never noticed much difference in viscosity breakdown and the engine ran great and didn't use much oil (maybe a quart every 5,000 to 8,000 miles and that was with a lot of towing going on). Wish I had been luckier with the diesel injectors. They started smoking at around 175,000 miles and had to be replaced to pass emissions/inspection. If ur lazy and don't like to change ur oil all the time(I did my own oil changes and maintenance) then Amsoil synthetics are the way to go. The price difference is about the same as conventional oil if you are on a 5,000-7,000 mile change routine.

 

[WNRB]

.4MPG over how much time/miles? That's kind of a small figure, which makes it extremely hard to confirm.​

1st off keep in mind that this is a comparison with a vehicle that has always been highly maintained and Custom Dyno Tuned since day one, and has "Never" seen over 19.5 mpg. for the Avg. for this particular car to get over that no matter how small a % is still something. It is no secret using a full synth. oil will help with mpg's, as stated in a partial list in my 1st response.... I have used everything from Lucas Oil, AMSOIL, Pennzoil "Platinum", Mobil 1, and even though they give great performance they have never broke that 19.5 mpg wall. As far as and update is concerned yesterday driving back from location 20 miles from home it hit 20.0 mpg (This was after dispatching some punk kid in a 2012 V-6 Mustang that wanted to see if he could smoke an older V-8... he didn't). so now you are at .5 mpg better. That figure may not be good enough to make some people try it, I already know two people I know personally that say it's worth giving it a try in their older vehicles and see what they get. Especially now with gas prices going up yet again everyone is trying to get better mpg's and keeping their vehicles longer, and that can be done with maintaining the engine using the best products available. For my car I can't say it really made a huge jump, but impressive IMO... in an older vehicle what if a person that tries it sees a 1 mpg jump (vs. my .4-.5 mpg gain) difference than that would be something especially if added up over time. (As for the process it was stated in the 1st post saw improvement in the 1st oil change an eventually made it to 19.9 after about 5-6 oil changes est. 13-14k miles give or take on an already well maintained Modified Mustang.)
From 1st post:

Results as follows:
1st oil change with ZMax engine formula: 19.5 mpg-19.7 mpg after 2k miles.
2nd oil change no ZMax (Only use every 6k miles): Steady 19.7 mpg.
3rd oil change again w/ ZMax: jumped from 19.7- Steady 19.9 and still holding.
Just thought I would pass that along.
Thanks.

 

[M. Sage]

Having a little better than passing knowledge of the inner workings of an engine, and knowing how those engines are lubricated, I have to say I'm extremely skeptical that your gains had anything to do with an oil additive. The only way that the stuff in your oil pan is going to have a positive effect on fuel economy (or power) is if it's easier to pump through the engine. There are far too many other possible factors that I know would make a difference. In fact, I'll say that there is no possible way ZMax could continue to have a positive effect on your fuel economy (if it ever did) when you've changed the oil and didn't put more into the fresh fill. There would obviously still be a small amount left in your crankcase, but not a full does worth.

This makes as much sense as those "hydrogen generator" things that people were putting on their cars hoping to get some extra MPG for nothing a few years ago - none. I'm sorry, but there has to be another reason for your gains, if there are gains at all. These are so small that they're nearly impossible to accurately track.

 

[40Arpent]

I wouldn't say that

I have to say it...my paycheck depends on it.

 

[M. Sage]

i have to say it...my paycheck depends on it.

lol!

 

[Shotgun Jeremy]

Have any of you tried running 15w40 through gasoline engines? I was given a few gallons of Mobil Delvac and told that it is good to run in the summer heat. I haven't really tried it though because I don't wanna screw anything up. I know that it's HUGE in the diesel industry, but there's gotta be a reason my manufacturer recommends 5w30. I just wanted to see if anyone on here has seen any negative or positive results from using the diesel grade oil on a gasoline engine.