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high mileage oil and bosch filters

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  • Flashcb

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    Is the high mileage oil just a gimick or is there some advantage to running it in a 01 Mitsubishi Eclipe V6 with 150K on the odometer?
    How about Bosch filters, enough better than Fram to justify the double price? any recommendations?
     

    TreyG-20

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    I always run mobile one synthetic and K&N oil filters on my dodge. I only have 61,000 miles on it, but so far so good. Then again I don't go by mileage in between oil changes. I visually inspect the oil and determine if I need to change it. I check it about ever 1,000 miles and probably change it every 5,000. They say its good for 15,000 but I don't want to chance it. If it looks like its breaking down and dirty it gets swapped.
     

    FrEaK_aCcIdEnT

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    I've got 152,000+ miles on a 4.3l s-10. Always use mobile 1 synthetic. Been using Lucas synthetic too. I still get 22 mpg on the highway. Change between 5000 and 7000. I use a mobile 1 filter too. I trust them. Don't know anything about Bosch though. I hear wix is good.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    My local carquest guy told me that according to the oil guys he buys off of-it's just a gimmick. As long as you keep up with your oil changes and take care of your vehicle, you can get by with just standard oil. The high mileage oil was more of a concern 10-15 years back, but with todays technologies both in oil and engines, you are generally ok running regular oil.

    Wix and ACDelco (I drive a chevy) are the only filters I'll run anymore. I used to run Fram religiously but then I started hearing all sorts of crap about them. So now, I generally go to Napa and get the Napa Gold filters which are made by Wix.
     

    RstyShcklfrd

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    In my G35 I ran Mobil 1 synthetic and K&N oil filter. In my F150 I run Motorcraft oil and oil filter. G35 had relatively high mileage and I never had an issue.

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy SIII using Tapatalk 2
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    I always run mobile one synthetic and K&N oil filters on my dodge. I only have 61,000 miles on it, but so far so good. Then again I don't go by mileage in between oil changes. I visually inspect the oil and determine if I need to change it. I check it about ever 1,000 miles and probably change it every 5,000. They say its good for 15,000 but I don't want to chance it. If it looks like its breaking down and dirty it gets swapped.
    You may wanna email Mobile about that. I've had a guy I worked with say he was told by a Mobile rep that changing it every 3,000-5,000 miles isn't recommended. Something about it not giving the oil time to do what it is designed to do. I dunno. I don't run synthetic cause I can't afford it but it's definitely worth emailing your vehicle manufacturer as well as Mobile about to be sure.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    I've been running just regular ol Pennzoil for about 90,000 miles now with no problems. Before I came along, it always had Quaker State run in it. Hell, sometimes I even get lazy and let it go 4,000-5,000 miles before I change it. Haven't had any issues with it. I'll probably keep doing that until it's time to get new engine components.
     

    TreyG-20

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    You may wanna email Mobile about that. I've had a guy I worked with say he was told by a Mobile rep that changing it every 3,000-5,000 miles isn't recommended. Something about it not giving the oil time to do what it is designed to do. I dunno. I don't run synthetic cause I can't afford it but it's definitely worth emailing your vehicle manufacturer as well as Mobile about to be sure.

    Enough time to breakdown and not lubricate like its suppose to? It should be doing that better when its new, not after 5000 miles. If that was the case then they'd sell used oil.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    Noooooo clue, man. I thought it was kinda weird myself. But they do say that you can go 15,000 miles without changing your oil, right? So maybe the rep was just saying you're not giving it enough time to lube before it's time to change it so you're just wasting your money by changing it every 5-7,000. Now, I may email them and ask. I'm getting curious lol
     

    FrEaK_aCcIdEnT

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    I've known people to use mobile 1 synthetic (not the extended use 15,000 mile) just regular 5w30 for 10,000 miles. They just changed the filter at 5000 and topped it off. Just haven't done it myself. Maybe ill start with full change of 5w30 mobile 1 and at 5000 change filter and top off with 1/2 quart Lucas and rest fresh oil. Sounds like a money saving plan!
     

    JoeB

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    [h=1]Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil[/h]1. Change your oil every 3,000 miles or three months — whichever comes first.
    We've said it before and we'll say it again: This is a myth for the vast majority of modern cars. The 3,000-mile oil change is the credo of the quick-oil change industry and dealership service departments, designed to regularly get you into the service bay. (Jiffy Lube recently abandoned its advocacy of the 3,000-mile rule, but clings to severe-schedule advice with which Edmunds disagrees. More on this later.)
    Experts agree that the oil in today's cars should be changed at the designated intervals in the owner's manual or when the car's oil life monitor light appears. (The average interval for 2010 cars is around 7,800 miles.) Oil experts and car manufacturers say that oil chemistry and engine technology have evolved tremendously in recent years, extending oil change intervals.
    "If customers always just stayed with the 3,000-mile recommendation, there'd be these great strides in the robustness of oil that oil companies have made [that] wouldn't be utilized," said Matt Snider, project engineer in GM's Fuels and Lubricants Group. Consumers, he said, would be "throwing away good oil" if they hewed to the outdated 3,000-mile rule.
    2. Change your oil before a long road trip. There is some truth to this. It's definitely a good idea to look your car over before long drives, says Dan Edmunds, director of vehicle testing for Edmunds.com. However, if the oil change interval is not scheduled to occur during the trip, it is not necessary to change it preemptively. If the oil change interval would arrive during the trip, then it's a good idea to change it before you leave.
    But Edmunds cautions that having service work performed just before a trip carries a risk. He was once driving miles from anywhere when a car passed him, trailing oil. It turned out the owner had just had her car's oil changed, and the shop had not properly tightened the drain plug. It had vibrated out. Edmunds suggests scheduling a service visit for about a week before leaving on a big trip, just to make sure everything is working properly before you hit the road. Here's more information about when to change your oil.
    3. Nearly all cars should be serviced under the "severe" maintenance schedule. This oft-cited rule is a myth the quick oil-change industry (including Jiffy Lube) uses to bolster more-frequent-than-necessary oil changes, experts tell Edmunds.com. When manufacturers say "severe," they mean situations in which vehicles pull heavy trailers, or cars race on closed tracks. It also applies to taxis or emergency-response vehicles that can idle for hours at a time. Just plain old stop-and-go traffic doesn't automatically bump people into the severe schedule. For further proof, consider this: A number of automakers, including Ford and GM, contacted Edmunds data editors to request that the maintenance section of Edmunds' site substitute the normal maintenance schedule for the severe schedule that had been displayed. If your car has an oil life monitoring system the severe-versus-normal question is moot.
    4. Check the oil on the dipstick. If it's black, change the oil. Experts say this is a myth, as is the related notion that you can identify spent oil by smell. "That is old school," says Kristen Huff, vice president of Blackstone Laboratories in Fort Wayne, Indiana. "Oil is meant to get dark — it means it's doing its job," she says. As GM's Matt Snider says in this video, different additives change the oil's color. The bottom line: Black oil still has plenty of life left in it.
    5. When you buy a new car, change your oil at 3,000 miles to remove metal particles from the engine break-in process. There might be a grain of truth to this, according to the experts at Blackstone. Oil samples from engines during the first 3,000 miles of driving show elevated "wear-in" metal levels, coming from the pistons and camshafts, says Ryan Stark, Blackstone's president. But he added, "To me, it doesn't make that much difference because if the filings are big enough to cause damage, they will be taken out by the oil filter."
    However, a Honda spokesman says its cars come from the factory with a special oil formulation for the break-in period. Honda advises owners to not change the oil early. Stark said Blackstone Laboratories' test of Honda's break-in oil shows it contains molybdenum-disulfide, an anti-wear additive. But Stark said Honda is the only manufacturer he knows that's using special break-in oil. The take-away? If there are any special break-in recommendations from the manufacturer, follow them. And consider analyzing the oil at 3,000 miles.
    6. Once you use synthetic oil, you always have to use it. This is a straight-up myth. In fact, the line between synthetic oil and petroleum-based oil is blurring because the two types of oil are often blended, says Edmunds Engineering Editor Jason Kavanagh. "As long as the oil meets the service and viscosity requirements set out in your owner's manual, you can switch back and forth as much as you want," he says. For more information, watch this short video.
    7. Synthetic oil is better for your car's engine and it improves your fuel economy. Myth. Steve Mazor, manager of the American Automobile Association's Research Center, says his testing shows that synthetic oil is generally a superior lubricant, but adds, "I'm not sure it is worth the extra cost — you need to take some of the [manufacturer's] claims with a grain of salt."
    Blackstone's Stark says he has not seen data to support claims that synthetic oils boost increased fuel economy. "There is a school of thought that says the synthetic oils are slipperier and allow the engine to spin easier — I don't know that I believe that." Watch this short video for more on the ongoing debate over synthetic and conventional oil.


    Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil

     

    JoeB

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    [h=1]http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html[/h]Here is another article about oils changes
     

    M. Sage

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    High mileage isn't entirely a gimmick, but I wouldn't bother if it cost more money. It's got slightly more anti-wear additives, but from what I understand may not flow as well cold. Cold engine is when you need to worry. Let me put it this way: my car's closing in on the 200,000 mile line. I didn't think twice last summer to jump in and drive to Michigan (it was well over 180K by that point). My Pontiac gets a new AC Delco filter and five quarts of whatever synthetic my employer has cheap - 5W30 - every 5,000 miles. I'm pretty sure that 2.4 will hold together at least until 250K... Point is, I don't bother with the high mileage. Just regular synthetic for me.

    Bosch makes good filters, they're OE for some Euro cars like Volkswagen. Wix is also excellent. Fram is garbage, avoid it.

    For intervals, 3000 is too short for modern cars and modern oils. You're not gaining anything. I do 5000 mile changes, and write 5000 mile intervals on the stickers at work. On the 5s is easier to remember, and 5-7 is a pretty safe interval for a synthetic (depends partly on driving conditions, oil type, filter type/brand, oil capacity, etc.) By rights, we should have hour meters on our engines and do maintenance according to those.

    I strongly recommend against the 15,000 mile oil interval that's being sold by some car makers. I've pulled fully plugged filters (OEM filters, OEM quality oil) out of cars at that interval. It's not worth risking an engine, IMO.
     

    Shotgun Jeremy

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    Great info Joe! I have been told by pretty much everyone that once you go synthetic, you can't go back. That's been the primary reason I haven't gone that route-I've been told if you go back, then you're very likely to have seals start leaking or going out. Since I never know if or when I'll be down and out, I didn't want to get myself into something that I can't afford down the road.

    All I have to say about Jiffy Lube is AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS! Dateline did a series of investigative reports on them and has exposed them nationwide as being a bunch of scam artists. I'm not talking just about them recommending you come in more than you have to-there's an entire series of videos on youtube of them not changing out filters that have been marked with paint markers, them charging for a tranny flush and not even unplugging the machine from the wall, and them saying how a car needs a service so bad when in fact, it doesn't. If you're the type that just want's to go to the shop, I recommend either your dealership, or Midas. I've never had any problems with Midas-great guys and have a $20 oil change. They'll even use your oil and filter and discount the price if you're just feeling lazy. Dealerships are cool, but I think they charge a bit much and I also have caught a few workers in the oil change bay that didn't know much outside of their job. They seem to know all about changing the oil (even if they're a little slow sometimes but that's ok on a light day), but then another part of that oil change that you're paying for is a lube job. I had two guys skip over my lube job with me standing right there. The second guy told me that my blazer doesn't need it. I then proceeded to point him to all my grease points on my steering setup. Soooo....yea-anytime I pay someone else to do the work, I always take care to watch them. lol
     

    Rangerscott

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    I use puralator pureOne or regular filters. I wqs a Castrol guy for a good while but have been using rotella 10w-30 T5 syn blend in my vehicle and T6 full syn 10w-40 in my bikes.
     

    M. Sage

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    IMO the blends aren't really worth using. Just go cheap or go synthetic. For cars, stick with a 5W or even 0W oil. Better cold flow.

    Avoid all quick-change stores. They all **** cars up. Not just by taking out engines. The morons they hire at those places strip drain plugs left and right. And then you pay me to fix it.

    There's a reason I'm not as cheap as they are. :D
     
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