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Ford lover, saves a 94' Z28
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You heard right. They some bad motherlovers and Im gonna slam it with another 100hp. But only on the way to church, honest.
"Sent from a puff of smoke"
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Since tapatalk is acting a fool. I'll see how I can get pictures on here from the iPhone.
As an up date, I installed the plate. It was a huge pita for no reason at all. Since the throttle body is pushed forward an 1/2". The lower thing that hold the IAC, needed dremel work. Material was sanded both off the throttle body bottom thing, but also the water neck and water pump.
I made a gasket out of a cereal box. Cut it with leather hole punches and a German made scalpel with an "11" blade. Sprayed both sides with high temp engine paint. Chevy reddish orange is what I had on hand. Hung it and let it dry for like 30 mins.
It took abit of hand fitment to where the plate went on correctly. I did booger the first two threads up on one manifold hole. They sale helicoil. I also had to grind down to shorten all 4 bolts the guy gave me. Long enough to hit the map sensor. Prolly took 5/16ths inch off each bolt. Didn't want the two bottom with blind holes to bottom out.
They were 8.8 grade and the same thread.I'm sure they were the kit bolts. All four bolts after installing the nitrous plate was torqued to 288" pounds.
Mounted the solenoids on the right side of the intake, mid way. There's a small bolt for something. 7mm head with a small lock washer. It's gotta ground with the engine. Lock washer will cut through the paint.
Also attached the hoses to the plate. Got them routed to where it looks ok and is far from the exhaust manifold as I could get them. Rat tail file to the alternator bracket. The dual rod looking bracket going from the intake to front and rear of the alternator. The nitrous hose going into the plate was kinda stressed. Hard to hand screw on to the plate cause the hose was so tight up against the bracket.
Nitrous jet thingy that go's between the hoses and plate, is .53 for nitrous, The fuel jet thingy is .12.
I'm gonna mount the bottle in the truck without drilling a single hole. It'll mount through the two drain caps on the bottom of the trunk pan. The plan is to get a poly cutting board. 1/4thick. It's wide enough and strong enough to hold the bottle. The bottle says it's 24lbs full. I doubt Ill buy more then 3-5 Pounds of nitrous. Shits expensive. The guy I got the kit from said he paid $7.50 a pound around Austin. Killeen has it a few places around downtown. There's a lot of sad Honda's rolling about. Haven't checked the price. There's an Airgas in Belton. Think I won't ask them to fill the bottle.
The hose from the bottle will be ran from the trunk, along the right floor, into the core support of the fender. If it'll reach. No drilling involved. The right wheel liner is getting pulled.
As for wires. Fused line off that red oval thing by the battery. Ran along the factory harness. Then across the back of the intake. Arming switch somewhere with an led light in a holder. Activation button is going to be on the steering wheel. I'm not putting a switch by the throttle body.
I gotta wait till next month but I'm not spraying the motor until I have a rev limiter. An MSD that hooks to the factory ignition/coil runs about $135. The ecm limiter cuts fuel to injectors leaning it out. Can't have that, not with nitrous.
Labor of love.
As an up date, I installed the plate. It was a huge pita for no reason at all. Since the throttle body is pushed forward an 1/2". The lower thing that hold the IAC, needed dremel work. Material was sanded both off the throttle body bottom thing, but also the water neck and water pump.
I made a gasket out of a cereal box. Cut it with leather hole punches and a German made scalpel with an "11" blade. Sprayed both sides with high temp engine paint. Chevy reddish orange is what I had on hand. Hung it and let it dry for like 30 mins.
It took abit of hand fitment to where the plate went on correctly. I did booger the first two threads up on one manifold hole. They sale helicoil. I also had to grind down to shorten all 4 bolts the guy gave me. Long enough to hit the map sensor. Prolly took 5/16ths inch off each bolt. Didn't want the two bottom with blind holes to bottom out.
They were 8.8 grade and the same thread.I'm sure they were the kit bolts. All four bolts after installing the nitrous plate was torqued to 288" pounds.
Mounted the solenoids on the right side of the intake, mid way. There's a small bolt for something. 7mm head with a small lock washer. It's gotta ground with the engine. Lock washer will cut through the paint.
Also attached the hoses to the plate. Got them routed to where it looks ok and is far from the exhaust manifold as I could get them. Rat tail file to the alternator bracket. The dual rod looking bracket going from the intake to front and rear of the alternator. The nitrous hose going into the plate was kinda stressed. Hard to hand screw on to the plate cause the hose was so tight up against the bracket.
Nitrous jet thingy that go's between the hoses and plate, is .53 for nitrous, The fuel jet thingy is .12.
I'm gonna mount the bottle in the truck without drilling a single hole. It'll mount through the two drain caps on the bottom of the trunk pan. The plan is to get a poly cutting board. 1/4thick. It's wide enough and strong enough to hold the bottle. The bottle says it's 24lbs full. I doubt Ill buy more then 3-5 Pounds of nitrous. Shits expensive. The guy I got the kit from said he paid $7.50 a pound around Austin. Killeen has it a few places around downtown. There's a lot of sad Honda's rolling about. Haven't checked the price. There's an Airgas in Belton. Think I won't ask them to fill the bottle.
The hose from the bottle will be ran from the trunk, along the right floor, into the core support of the fender. If it'll reach. No drilling involved. The right wheel liner is getting pulled.
As for wires. Fused line off that red oval thing by the battery. Ran along the factory harness. Then across the back of the intake. Arming switch somewhere with an led light in a holder. Activation button is going to be on the steering wheel. I'm not putting a switch by the throttle body.
I gotta wait till next month but I'm not spraying the motor until I have a rev limiter. An MSD that hooks to the factory ignition/coil runs about $135. The ecm limiter cuts fuel to injectors leaning it out. Can't have that, not with nitrous.
Labor of love.
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Lol, it's a CHeVy. I'm guessing she has 300 at the flywheel. She can do another 100 easy.
I'm not spraying it on launch. Not until I can get 12bolt or 8.8. That's why I ain't putting a switch on the TB. She already go's sideways hitting second. I'd look like I was Tokyo drifting spraying at launch, lol.
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Hose from bottle to the solenoid ran. It's just long enough to reach. From the trunk through the sail panel, along the door seal. Go's through the firewall with some wires that had a fairly big rubber grommet.
The only snag is that I need a 90 degree AN4 swivel. With the tank mounted on its side, the connection has to point down and slightly to the rear of the trunk. The bottle has a pipe with an angle bend, inside it. Think Windex bottle. So the position of the bottle matters. You have to take in effect acceleration and the liquid inside the bottle sloshing back as the car go's forward. The hose is too tight making the curve up towards the right wheel well.
The nozzles that came with it, I can't use.
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
This system is wet. Once I gauge the fuel pressure and see what pressure the bottle will have in our wonderful heat. I can get the proper size jets.
I'm gonna start out with a 50hp jet. Depending on bottle temp the HP can range from like 43 to above 50. I'm not using a bottle heater...unless I can find one used. Timing retarded 2 degrees at 50, 4 degrees at 100. You want the combustion explosion to chase the piston on the down stroke. If not, there's a chance it'll blow the engine with the piston going against the explosion. After I have it dialed at the 50hp mark, Ill consider bigger jets. Either 75hp or 100. I'm not going past 100hp. That's not so much to do with pushing the motor. It's more to do with me not trusting the rear end.
The most I'd trust to spray this motor is a max of 150hp. It'll never see that much but that's all I'd spray one up to. The solenoid on this system are the small jobs. They're only rated to 150hp anyhow.
The only snag is that I need a 90 degree AN4 swivel. With the tank mounted on its side, the connection has to point down and slightly to the rear of the trunk. The bottle has a pipe with an angle bend, inside it. Think Windex bottle. So the position of the bottle matters. You have to take in effect acceleration and the liquid inside the bottle sloshing back as the car go's forward. The hose is too tight making the curve up towards the right wheel well.
The nozzles that came with it, I can't use.
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
This system is wet. Once I gauge the fuel pressure and see what pressure the bottle will have in our wonderful heat. I can get the proper size jets.
I'm gonna start out with a 50hp jet. Depending on bottle temp the HP can range from like 43 to above 50. I'm not using a bottle heater...unless I can find one used. Timing retarded 2 degrees at 50, 4 degrees at 100. You want the combustion explosion to chase the piston on the down stroke. If not, there's a chance it'll blow the engine with the piston going against the explosion. After I have it dialed at the 50hp mark, Ill consider bigger jets. Either 75hp or 100. I'm not going past 100hp. That's not so much to do with pushing the motor. It's more to do with me not trusting the rear end.
The most I'd trust to spray this motor is a max of 150hp. It'll never see that much but that's all I'd spray one up to. The solenoid on this system are the small jobs. They're only rated to 150hp anyhow.
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Love this thread. Bring that SOB to Hicksville before you blow it up - since we can't do that anymore.
Speaking of blowing it up.....
Did some searching for ideas on a rev limiter. A stand alone MSD rev limiter runs about $135 from Summit. Eyeballing the paper catalog, Summit sales a house brand ignition box for like $135. It has an adjustable rev limiter.
So I can get a new ignition plus a rev limiter if I get the Summit brand box. You'd think the house brand stuff would suck. However, the stuff Summit sales is pretty Damn good. The new distributor cap on the optispark is Summit brand. It exceeded stock quality.
When I get headers, I'm going with Summit brand. I think pacesetter makes them. I don't know though. 5/16" flanges, 16 gauge tubes. They're not Kooks but they're also not a $1000 bucks.
Did some searching for ideas on a rev limiter. A stand alone MSD rev limiter runs about $135 from Summit. Eyeballing the paper catalog, Summit sales a house brand ignition box for like $135. It has an adjustable rev limiter.
So I can get a new ignition plus a rev limiter if I get the Summit brand box. You'd think the house brand stuff would suck. However, the stuff Summit sales is pretty Damn good. The new distributor cap on the optispark is Summit brand. It exceeded stock quality.
When I get headers, I'm going with Summit brand. I think pacesetter makes them. I don't know though. 5/16" flanges, 16 gauge tubes. They're not Kooks but they're also not a $1000 bucks.
I've put this huge bottle all over the place in the car. Trunk, back seat, between the front seats, over the rear part of the floor tunnel. Mounting the bottle in the interior was out of the question in the first place. Used they sale for like $150. New they go for $250++. Hanging the bottle in view would just encourage some fool to either cut my top or bust my window while I was in Wal-Mart. It's locked up in the trunk, temptation removed. It's good ole Killeen. Someone here would steal the white off your teeth if they could.
My best option in the bottle standing upright on the right side of the trunk, front sheet metal. I can't put it in the quarter panel wells. Jack and spare are required and the other side has the top pump. I still need some trunk space. What there is of it. I'm not putting the back seat, back in. Ill make shelf cover, where the bottom seat cushions were. Ill mount that 10" speaker in the right side. Maybe a covey hole on the left.
I'm gonna have to drill holes in the trunk pan. I'm gonna price a small sheet of diamond plate at Lowe's. The trunks sheet metal is pretty thin. It needs a backing. The bottle has gotta be secured to something solid. Empty, the bottle weighs over 10lbs, full 24lbs+.
Ill make sure the holes drill have more then enough rust protection. Might use spray can bed liner after some rust converter acid. Spray rubber over the bolts after installing the diamond plate and bottle straps.
I don't want the bottle turning into missile if I wreak. 11#-26# of flying bottle through the air would be a serious buzz kill.
I'll use the plastic mounts for now till I can get some in metal.
My best option in the bottle standing upright on the right side of the trunk, front sheet metal. I can't put it in the quarter panel wells. Jack and spare are required and the other side has the top pump. I still need some trunk space. What there is of it. I'm not putting the back seat, back in. Ill make shelf cover, where the bottom seat cushions were. Ill mount that 10" speaker in the right side. Maybe a covey hole on the left.
I'm gonna have to drill holes in the trunk pan. I'm gonna price a small sheet of diamond plate at Lowe's. The trunks sheet metal is pretty thin. It needs a backing. The bottle has gotta be secured to something solid. Empty, the bottle weighs over 10lbs, full 24lbs+.
Ill make sure the holes drill have more then enough rust protection. Might use spray can bed liner after some rust converter acid. Spray rubber over the bolts after installing the diamond plate and bottle straps.
I don't want the bottle turning into missile if I wreak. 11#-26# of flying bottle through the air would be a serious buzz kill.
I'll use the plastic mounts for now till I can get some in metal.
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Yes I am.
For the viewers not sure what a window switch is. It's not for the glass window in your door. It's a rpm activated switch that turns on something at a present rpm, turns off it at another preset rpm. The difference between the on/off rpm range is called a 'window'.
Hence, 'window switch'
You can use it to activate/deactivate the nitrous solenoid within a given rpm range.
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...
Damn, it's gonna cost a penny to set the nitrous up. I'm gonna install two safeties.
One being a fuel pressure cut off switch. What this does is, if the fuel pressure falls below a set valve. Say it's gotta stay at 45lbs and it falls to 43lbs for any reason. The pressure switch is wired to where it cuts the power to the nitrous solenoid if tripped. It's a safety and the first. Nitrous can not be run lean. There has to be a ratio of gasoline present or bad things happen. I was watching 'pinks all out' the other day. They caught on camera a nitrous explosion blowing the hood and bumper off a late model Pontiac. Nitrous has gotta be right.
Next is a window switch. Explain earlier, Summit has it in the $50 range.
The bitch is .....I need a ignition box and or device that accepts a retard control. I can program the ecm to time at 2 degrees after top dead center. It'll run like shit unless it has nitrous. So another way is required.
MSD ignition and/or a retard control. I'm still studying what does what. I might be able to get only a stand alone device for retarding the timing. Lots cheaper then a MSD ignition box. It's good stuff and pricey to boot.
The pressure switch needs a manifold and a 90 degree fitting. I believe the bottle fitting and fuel rail check valve fitting is a AN 6. Even the factory check valve. The threaded pipe by the fuel regulator, used to check fuel pressure.....From what I can tell is an actually GM fitting, that'll fit AN6.
It's unreal the price of airplane quality fittings.....for your car. A small 90degree elbow that fits a 1/8" line can run $30. I've priced two, one for the bottle in the trunk the other for the line from the fuel rail to solenoid. The second elbow gives me room for the pressure switch and keep the line from rubbing on the shelf below the wippers.
With the safeties and retard set up, there's little chance of hurting the motor. As long as I don't spray too much...
Damn, it's gonna cost a penny to set the nitrous up. I'm gonna install two safeties.
One being a fuel pressure cut off switch. What this does is, if the fuel pressure falls below a set valve. Say it's gotta stay at 45lbs and it falls to 43lbs for any reason. The pressure switch is wired to where it cuts the power to the nitrous solenoid if tripped. It's a safety and the first. Nitrous can not be run lean. There has to be a ratio of gasoline present or bad things happen. I was watching 'pinks all out' the other day. They caught on camera a nitrous explosion blowing the hood and bumper off a late model Pontiac. Nitrous has gotta be right.
Next is a window switch. Explain earlier, Summit has it in the $50 range.
The bitch is .....I need a ignition box and or device that accepts a retard control. I can program the ecm to time at 2 degrees after top dead center. It'll run like shit unless it has nitrous. So another way is required.
MSD ignition and/or a retard control. I'm still studying what does what. I might be able to get only a stand alone device for retarding the timing. Lots cheaper then a MSD ignition box. It's good stuff and pricey to boot.
The pressure switch needs a manifold and a 90 degree fitting. I believe the bottle fitting and fuel rail check valve fitting is a AN 6. Even the factory check valve. The threaded pipe by the fuel regulator, used to check fuel pressure.....From what I can tell is an actually GM fitting, that'll fit AN6.
It's unreal the price of airplane quality fittings.....for your car. A small 90degree elbow that fits a 1/8" line can run $30. I've priced two, one for the bottle in the trunk the other for the line from the fuel rail to solenoid. The second elbow gives me room for the pressure switch and keep the line from rubbing on the shelf below the wippers.
With the safeties and retard set up, there's little chance of hurting the motor. As long as I don't spray too much...
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I dug out that window switch, but I can't find a manual for it. It was manufactured by FJO for Nitrous Express way back in the day, and it looks like FJO was bought by Holley. It's a model 908 two-stage window switch:
Here's the wiring:
White = +12V
Black = Ground
Yellow = Stage 1 solenoid
Orange = Stage 2 solenoid
Blue = Throttle position sensor
Green = RPM
Here's the wiring:
White = +12V
Black = Ground
Yellow = Stage 1 solenoid
Orange = Stage 2 solenoid
Blue = Throttle position sensor
Green = RPM
I don't know how to operate it, my buddy is no longer with Nitrous Express, but another friend might be able to help (Dave from Nitrous Outlet). If you need anything for your kit, I'd recommend calling him, he's an awesome guy.
Edit: Well whaddayaknow. Found the instructions on Ricky's site:
908ws_instruction.pdf
Edit: Well whaddayaknow. Found the instructions on Ricky's site:
908ws_instruction.pdf
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