Filter System for "Brackish" Water?

[grasshopperglock]

I wasn't saying it's from chemical fertilizer. Just it's possibility. Readings of low nitrate, .....The 0-0-0 analysis. Every living thing in or around the water is eating it.


Texas Aggies needs to stop calling it total dissolved salts. It's the first time I've read it being called that. Total Dissolved Solids.


Sodium can come from fertilizer, pesticide, released from minerals (limestone), run off from something more saline, fossil salt...


It's always going to be there. Look at like this. You don't need to take mineral supplements cuz you'll be drinking them. And if you think your water is bad. Chug a glass of west Texas's finest. It taste like unflavored Gatorade.

 

[enterthecusian]

Salinity is a tough one, but other than that those readings aren't indicating anything too bad other than (pretty darn) bad taste. As someone already said evaporation is a surefire removal method, but it's time consuming and delicate. I might consider just adding a few survival straws to your kit, which filter out mineral deposits and solids during the act of intake (as well as bacteria depending on how high quality). They're not too pricey, and that way you can also suck up any yummy lookin puddles you find along the way

Try to support local business, but for example's sake something like this: https://www.amazon.com/H2O-Straw-Personal-Bag-Successfully-Philippines-Contaminated/dp/B00GURRIFM

You could drink your personal supply with no worry whatsoever, and have the added flexibility of purification on the go.

-david

 

[TexasRedneck]

Sorry to be here so late on this....

A small RO system would easily do the job, depending on how many GPD you want to produce. You can buy them at Sam's for next to nothing. The membranes are like $50 each - and if you're treating well water, there's really not a need for a carbon filter, which is there primarily to remove the chlorine, which plays hob with the membrane. The major advantage is that the shelf life of a new membrane is almost forever, as long as it's not wetted. And with a small booster pump, you can jump your production levels by a factor of up to 10. So, you could buy a new RO, toss it on the shelf w/some spare membranes and filters, and just store until needed.

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Thanks to both of you for the information.

Salinity is a tough one, but other than that those readings aren't indicating anything too bad other than (pretty darn) bad taste. As someone already said evaporation is a surefire removal method, but it's time consuming and delicate. I might consider just adding a few survival straws to your kit, which filter out mineral deposits and solids during the act of intake (as well as bacteria depending on how high quality).

I had bought a couple of the "straws" already. My wife likes to attend quilting retreats, so we put together a bag for her in case SHTF while she's there and needs to go "cross country" to get home. I'm going to build a "prototype" solar still out of a concrete mixing pan, PVC pipe, and poly sheet. Once I'm happy with the results, I'll rebuilt with "food-safe" components, possibly a stainless steel pan and glass cover.

Sorry to be here so late on this....

A small RO system would easily do the job, depending on how many GPD you want to produce. You can buy them at Sam's for next to nothing. The membranes are like $50 each - and if you're treating well water, there's really not a need for a carbon filter, which is there primarily to remove the chlorine, which plays hob with the membrane. The major advantage is that the shelf life of a new membrane is almost forever, as long as it's not wetted. And with a small booster pump, you can jump your production levels by a factor of up to 10. So, you could buy a new RO, toss it on the shelf w/some spare membranes and filters, and just store until needed.

I'm glad to find out the small RO units are reasonably priced and the membranes have a shelf life that allows them to be stored indefinitely. Hopefully they'll just stay on the shelf.
Unfortunately, the well's recovery rate is poor. Probably looking at something like 50-70 gallons a day. Probably adequate for conservative household use and RO filtering, but not enough for the garden, goats, and fruit trees. We've got a seasonal creek that runs through the back part of the property. It's running now, but dries up during drought. I'm thinking about getting a hole dug near it and setting a road culvert upright in the hole. That way I've got a shallow utility well I can use with a bucket and a rope.
It is what it is. Like I said, hopefully we'll never have to use this stuff

 

[Texan-in-Training]

The major advantage is that the shelf life of a new membrane is almost forever, as long as it's not wetted. And with a small booster pump, you can jump your production levels by a factor of up to 10. So, you could buy a new RO, toss it on the shelf w/some spare membranes and filters, and just store until needed.

TR, on the off chance you're still checking this thread, I figured I'd ask a question and post an update.
I've pretty much settled on buying a Watts WP5-50 with a bunch of spare filters and membranes. Since I don't want to toss it on the shelf without testing it first, is that going to ruin the membrane (being stored after wetting a couple of times)?
The other thing was that I stumbled across a couple of used 12 VDC "Shurflo" RV pumps in my shed. Going to rebuild them and store them away with the RO system. 45 PSI out of them, so theoretically I could pump out of a bucket to the filter.
Thanks again for the info.

 

[A.Texas.Yankee]

TR, on the off chance you're still checking this thread, I figured I'd ask a question and post an update.
I've pretty much settled on buying a Watts WP5-50 with a bunch of spare filters and membranes. Since I don't want to toss it on the shelf without testing it first, is that going to ruin the membrane (being stored after wetting a couple of times)?
The other thing was that I stumbled across a couple of used 12 VDC "Shurflo" RV pumps in my shed. Going to rebuild them and store them away with the RO system. 45 PSI out of them, so theoretically I could pump out of a bucket to the filter.
Thanks again for the info.

I would never store any filter after it's been wet. Unless you can disassemble completely and ensure it's extremely dry, you run risk of biological contamination and growth. Even then, some filter membranes don't hold up well being wet, then dried, as they can "dry rot" too.

Just my input based off other things, I have no specific experience with that particular filter.

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Buy one to test.
If it works, buy what you want to store...

 

[grasshopperglock]

TR, on the off chance you're still checking this thread, I figured I'd ask a question and post an update.
I've pretty much settled on buying a Watts WP5-50 with a bunch of spare filters and membranes. Since I don't want to toss it on the shelf without testing it first, is that going to ruin the membrane (being stored after wetting a couple of times)?
The other thing was that I stumbled across a couple of used 12 VDC "Shurflo" RV pumps in my shed. Going to rebuild them and store them away with the RO system. 45 PSI out of them, so theoretically I could pump out of a bucket to the filter.
Thanks again for the info.

I'd think the filters would be fine stored wet. (Short term) You gotta figure how long the water sits in the filter. When it's not being used. I didn't read anything in the description that says the filters have to be replaced if you don't use enough water.

I've been looking at the same unit. I don't need the sink mounted glass filling thing. I'm not connecting it under the sink either. I've seen attachments that connect to the kitchen faucet.

Maybe mount the whole contraption inside a cheap ice chest? Screw the filter manifold to the side. The little tank, sat in the bottom. Enough hose. Close the top and store when I'm done.

Using a pump on stored water. I'd stick the suction hose in a bottle of 3% H2O2 and run some through the pump and RO filters after I was done.

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Think I'll give Watts a call on Monday and pose all my questions to them.
All of you have valid concerns and suggestions and I'll do my best to pass on what they have to say... particularly about drying, storing, and reusing the filters I use for the warranty/function test. I suspect I'll be buying their WP5-50 even if I do end up tossing the used filters. Amazon has a 30 day return policy so that will allow me to do a pretty good evaluation. Reading the reviews leads one to believe that the included hose fittings are junk, so I'll just replace them with better quality fittings from the hardware store.
I definitely will do a full review here on the system. Hopefully it's a good unit so I can move on to the next project.

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Spoke to Watts technical support just now.
They recommend against drying and reusing the filter cartridges because of bacterial growth issues.
They say that the used cartridges can be "preserved" by totally submerging them in a water filled container and storing in the refrigerator. No longer than for ninety days though.
Guess I'll just toss the cartridges I use to test out the system that I'll try to get on order this afternoon.

 

[TheDan]

Well don't just "toss" it. I'd use the test filter until it's no longer serviceable. That will give you an idea on how long they will last for you, and you can estimate how many you might need to store long term. I bet one will last quite awhile if you use it only for drinking water and occasionally back flush it.

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Well don't just "toss" it. I'd use the test filter until it's no longer serviceable.

That's probably what I'll do. Since I'm not planning to do the standard "under the kitchen sink" installation (just like GrasshopperGlock), I may or may not stay within Watts' usage timetable. The manual says to store the membrane if I won't be using the system for two months or more and their tech support guy said up to three months storage after removing it. Maybe I can just go back & forth, using/storing. We'll see... I just ordered the unit with a couple of years worth of replacement filters and membranes.
I may build some sort of stand for the filter system and the RV pump and until conditions warrant otherwise, pump well water out of a five gallon bucket and fill water bottles for use like at the water stores.

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Finished!
Started running it this afternoon... still getting some carbon in the output. Watts prescribes three full system flushes, so I'm looking at about another day running it. So far, looks good. Input well water around 1000 ppm TDS, output is less than 400 ppm TDS.



I don't think the small tank on the output of the pump is accomplishing anything, it doesn't seem to be filling with water. I added it as a "pressure tank" so the pump wouldn't "short cycle". Considering how miserable I am at plumbing, I was grateful for only a couple of minor leaks. Can't say how the long term function will be but I'm pretty pleased so far.
Now I can get around to shooting my new M&P shield that's been neglected since I started this project.

Edited update: Few minutes after posting, I went out to the shop to check on something else. Had a flood on and under the unit. Seems to have backflowed through a "weephole" in the faucet base. Guess I get to call Watts technical support in the morning. It was nice while it lasted...

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Is the input, and the output, 5 gallon buckets for the test, or am I missing something?

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Is the input, and the output, 5 gallon buckets for the test, or am I missing something?

The bucket with the garden hose going to it is well water and the other bucket is filtration process "waste" water. The filtered water comes out of the little chrome faucet on the same shelf as the pump.

 

[grasshopperglock]

I'd bet a lot of the 400 PPM is carbon dust. Looking forward to reading about the PPM after the filters rinse out.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

The bucket with the garden hose going to it is well water and the other bucket is filtration process "waste" water. The filtered water comes out of the little chrome faucet on the same shelf as the pump.

But, at this point, input is coming from just the 5 gal bucket that "you" filled with well water, correct?

 

[Texan-in-Training]

But, at this point, input is coming from just the 5 gal bucket that "you" filled with well water, correct?

Right. The pressure to the system is provided by a Shurflo brand RV water pump. I adjusted it so it turns on at 40 PSI and shuts off at 60 PSI. Source water comes from the 5 gallon bucket, through the short "drinking safe" garden hose (Gatorhyde brand), through the pre-filter then to the pump then to the system. Like I mentioned, I'm not sure the "pressure tank" on the input to the filter system "buys" me anything.
I designed it this way so in the worst case, say the well breaks, I can still put water in a bucket and run it through the system.
Why it decided to dump a bunch of water through the faucet vent hole is beyond me right now. Going to call Watts as soon as I hit the "post" button.

 

[ZX9RCAM]

Works for me...

 

[Texan-in-Training]

Looks like no major problems at this point. Had a long talk with a very knowledgeable tech at Watts. Here's from an e-mail I got from him...

"Recapping our conversation I would make sure the black drain line is always free flowing never underwater in the bucket otherwise it will leak out of the air gap hole on the faucet.
I would add an inline shut off valve before and after your expansion tank to keep the water inside the expansion tank after you disconnect power from the shurflo pump. Remember the reverse osmosis tank will remain full because the unit has a built in check valve and the faucet is closed."

Apparently even the back pressure of being slightly underwater is enough for the waste water to leak through the faucet vent hole. I'll add the two shut off valves he recommends and hopefully no more issues.
TDS down to 350 ppm. Still a couple more flushes to go.