Guns International

Favorite Case Lube?

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  • Rating - 0%
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    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
    96
    HK
    I've been using the same quart bottle of ATF on an ink pad for years...somewhere over 20k rifle rounds through the press. The lube is inexpensive and works well, and tumbles clean in just a few minutes.

    For straight wall pistol rounds, I tumble the brass with crushed walnut hull and a dime sized glob of Mother's Chrome polish until the brass is clean and shiny and make sure the carbide die is clean and dry before starting.


    How inventive. Bet the sizer die bore is bright and polished. I was planning on gluing(or just sticking some in the bottom) some thin upholstery foam in a small plastic tub. The foam has a backing and that side will be on top.

    Lube the foam. Throw some cases it. Roll em' back and forth. I have some high dollar synthetic transmission fluid crap. I'm gonna try it too.
     

    ROGER4314

    Been Called "Flash" Since I Was A Kid!
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    Jul 11, 2009
    10,444
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    East Houston
    I have arthritic elbows, so my main concern is to reduce the force required to resize brass on the press. I use RCBS "Case Lube 2" on the RCBS lube pad. Several cases are placed on the lubricated pad and they're rolled with the flat of the hand. That's perfect!

    It is said that carbide dies don't need lubed cases. I lube them anyway to reduce the force required to size them. In the .223/5.56, a case can get stuck in the die and it pulls the rim off of the brass. The RCBS stuck case remover works like a charm but lubricating the cases eliminates the possibility of sticking one in the die. Been reloading since the late 1960's and have had three stuck cases.

    Flash
     
    Rating - 0%
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    Jan 5, 2012
    18,591
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    HK
    Pistol carbide doesn't need lube. Rifle carbide still needs lube. On the rifle dies. The makers say its meant to extend the life of the die and prevent scratches to the die bore.

    For the cost of the carbide die, you could buy two tool steel sizing dies. For pistol it's worth it. On rifle, not so much.
     

    ROGER4314

    Been Called "Flash" Since I Was A Kid!
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    Jul 11, 2009
    10,444
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    East Houston
    Yeah and that sucks something awful. First time sizing .223 I had 5 or 6 stuck cases, talk about some serious cussing there. Oh, and I didn't have the remover tool either...

    When I stuck my first .223, I tried punching the case out from the top. That cost me the primer punch and plug. Finally, I broke down and got the RCBS stuck case remover and have used it twice. For $18 it's worth the money!

    I probably could have southern engineered a similar set of tools from stuff I have in my garage but I decided to do it right and order the correct tools. I store the kit (drill bit, tap, Allen head bolt, and hollow base to hold the cartridge case) in a metal Band aid can in my reloading room. I hope that I never need it again! It does work, however. The case comes out like poop from a goose!

    Flash
     
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    Rating - 0%
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    Jan 5, 2012
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    I took apart a new sizing die last night. Removed the decap pin.

    Cut the loop off a Glock bore brush. Chucked in a cordless drill and spun it on the side of a green compound stick. Some ATF fluid cause I'm out of WD-40.

    Stuck in the sizing die and spun. Back and forth like honing an engine cylinder. Cleaned, inspected, two more compound runs. Cleaned and oiled for now. (Ill take a picture later today to show the polish of the bore.)

    The flaring ball that holds the recap pin. Polished using black compound and a dremel.


    I don't do stuck cases and the factory finish on the inside of sizing dies are lacking.
     
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    Jan 5, 2012
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    Polishing makes its easy to see the factory machine marks. From the factory, the bore finish isn't that great.

    This is a Hornady Custom something.


    All pictures are after the polish. The outer rim went mirror.


    Check out the machine mark. It's difficult if not impossible to see by the naked eyeball.

    cdc9cf320c621936ab4ed424f6b1e80c.jpg



    86757324d0b616b06338627e968d9cd5.jpg



    f2e0d157c78b4b140f49a7e2e16ce504.jpg



    73f54012e2180c57f78341d5ee2b119f.jpg



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    Ny700

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    Mar 21, 2014
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    I've use imperial and rubs case lube on a pad. Never a problem. Tried hornady one shot and it was awful. I sprayed libraly then let dry. What did I do wrong?


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    TheDan

    deplorable malcontent scofflaw
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    Nov 11, 2008
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    I've use imperial and rubs case lube on a pad. Never a problem. Tried hornady one shot and it was awful. I sprayed libraly then let dry. What did I do wrong?
    Try putting your brass in a big ziplock, spraying inside the bag, closing it, and then shake and bake!


    eta: don't actually bake it... Not sure how literal some people might be :laughing:
     

    Dawico

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    Oct 15, 2009
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    Try putting your brass in a big ziplock, spraying inside the bag, closing it, and then shake and bake!


    eta: don't actually bake it... Not sure how literal some people might be :laughing:
    I do the same but am going to try a plastic container next time. The baggie makes it hard to remove any errant pieces of media that stick to the bag and brass.

    I spray and shake twice though (OOCQ here I come).
     
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    Jan 5, 2012
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    I do the same but am going to try a plastic container next time. The baggie makes it hard to remove any errant pieces of media that stick to the bag and brass.

    I spray and shake twice though (OOCQ here I come).

    Line them up in an old scope box top . Tilt one end of the box and spray as they roll. I tried this the other night verses a tub. It worked pretty good.
     

    TheDan

    deplorable malcontent scofflaw
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    The best thing about the ziplock method is that it contains all the overspray. You use a lot less that way. If you can keep all the overspray in your container it should work just as well.
     
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    Jan 5, 2012
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    Let me tell you about over spray, lol

    I use One Shot. I also use it to lube the dies, powder drop, primer shuttle, case holder, small tools...I'd bet there's over spray on the ceiling.
     

    Younggun

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    Jul 31, 2011
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    One shot in a bag for most everything.

    5w Valvaline for .50.


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    ElevenBravo

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    Feb 10, 2013
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    I've use imperial and rubs case lube on a pad. Never a problem. Tried hornady one shot and it was awful. I sprayed libraly then let dry. What did I do wrong?

    You did it like a liberal. Duh.

    Probably the problem is that you used too much. You don't need to spray a whole lot on the brass.
     
    Last edited:

    ElevenBravo

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    The best thing about the ziplock method is that it contains all the overspray. You use a lot less that way. If you can keep all the overspray in your container it should work just as well.

    I have a loading block just for spraying. I've always taken my brass outside before hitting it with One Shot just because I don't want to stink up the house.
     

    Vaquero

    Moving stuff to the gas prices thread.....
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    Apr 4, 2011
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    Y'all need to try the bag.
    Loading block was how I started with one shot.
    No problems.
    I gave in and used a sandwich bag.
    No comparison.
    Less product used and better coverage.
     

    Younggun

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    Jul 31, 2011
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    Y'all need to try the bag.
    Loading block was how I started with one shot.
    No problems.
    I gave in and used a sandwich bag.
    No comparison.
    Less product used and better coverage.

    Yep.


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