Anyone have a good recipe for 124 grn round nose rainer bullets

[picker]

Or know of some place to find load data ?
Best/joe

 

[Sapper740]

"rainer" bullets? Not sure what you mean.

 

[picker]

Its a brand name Midway carrys, I was loading some 124 grn hornadys and like an ametuer I thought 124 grn bullets are 124 grn bullets right ? Wrong they were so weak when they ejected out of my Beretta they fell on my foot barely enough force to drive the slide.
I measured the OAL of both and while I don't remember the difference the round nose rainier bullets were longer and seated higher.
Best/joe

 

[Sapper740]

O.K. Now I know what you're talking about, you mean "Rainier" bullets...like the mountain in the Pacific North West. Let's get some nomenclature straight here so I know what you're asking. So what's happening is the cartridge you're shooting doesn't drive the slide back with authority and the spent case simply falls onto your foot, correct?

But it is ejecting. Does the slide fail to pick up a new round and move forward into battery?

 

[vmax]

ok, I assume we are talking 9mm .356 caliber , 124 grain round nose

if you are using loading data for the above it, using a different brand of the same described bullet for the data above shouldn't cause the issue you are describing.
you have another issue and not the brand of bullet you are using

do you have any loading manuals in book form?

 

[Sapper740]

Next question. I assume these are handloads. What powder are you using?

 

[Wiliamr]

In reloading precision and very precise details are not just essential they are everything. Picker I know you are just getting started so some suggestions, buy reloading manuals to begin with the Lyman # 49 book. Also suggest Nosler, Speer and Hornaday books. Check online with the manufactures of not only the bullets you are firing, but the powder companies as well. READ everything. Go check out the handloaders forum.

 

[Younggun]

If they are 124gr plated round nose just use load data for 124gr jacketed bullets from your manual.

You won't find specific load data for every single bullet weight and manufacturer. There are just too many out there to list.

Bullets of the same basic design tend to be pretty similar and load data tends to cross. This doesn't mean that 124gr XTP data crosses to 124gr FMJ. It means that 124gr FMJ brand A usually works just fine for 124gr FMJ brand B.


From jacketed to plates some manufactures recommend using data for lead bullets, others for jacketed. This is mostly due to the fact that plates bullets can't withstand velocities sometimes seen in jacketed bullets but shouldn't be an issue for 9mm.

So, find a load in your manual for 124gr FMJ (if that matches the design of the bullet your using) and work a load up from the minimum load listed. Same as you would do for a jacketed bullet.


And keep in mind that speed is not equal to accuracy.

 

[Texasjack]

Younggun is wrong - don't use jacketed data for plated bullets; use LEAD data for plated.

Plated bullets are softer and operate more like lead bullets. Using the jacketed bullet data can result in the loads being too "hot" and losing a lot of accuracy.

In any case, no bullet type should change the velocity sufficiently to cause you ejection problems. More likely you have an issue with the amount of powder or (possibly) with the amount of crimp on the bullet. (That can be a problem in semiautos.)

 

[Younggun]

Younggun is wrong - don't use jacketed data for plated bullets; use LEAD data for plated.

Plated bullets are softer and operate more like lead bullets. Using the jacketed bullet data can result in the loads being too "hot" and losing a lot of accuracy.

In any case, no bullet type should change the velocity sufficiently to cause you ejection problems. More likely you have an issue with the amount of powder or (possibly) with the amount of crimp on the bullet. (That can be a problem in semiautos.)

You obviously didn't read my entire post before shooting your mouth off.

And keep in mind that speed is not equal to accuracy.

And info from just one manufacturer.

http://www.xtremebullets.com/Bullet-Load-Info-s/1952.htm

 

[rushthezeppelin]

Younggun is wrong - don't use jacketed data for plated bullets; use LEAD data for plated.

Plated bullets are softer and operate more like lead bullets. Using the jacketed bullet data can result in the loads being too "hot" and losing a lot of accuracy.

In any case, no bullet type should change the velocity sufficiently to cause you ejection problems. More likely you have an issue with the amount of powder or (possibly) with the amount of crimp on the bullet. (That can be a problem in semiautos.)

This. You don't want to push plated bullets past what the manufacturer suggests. I think most plated say not to push them past 1200-1400 fps. Granted with 124gr 9mm I don't even think FMJ generally get pushed this fast (been a bit since I reloaded so I can't remember off the top of my head). Of course you have the double plated that can be pushed a bit harder but I don't think rainer does this with theirs (I always used Berry's before I got into casting). Also be light on the crimp you put on them. If you break the plating you can actually have the plating on the base separate and lodge in your barrel potentially causing a kaboom if you follow it up with another round. At the very least it can cause leading issues which is a PITA to get out (all copper chore boys wrapped around a well used bore brush works but it takes alot of elbow grease).

 

[picker]

O.K. Now I know what you're talking about, you mean "Rainier" bullets...like the mountain in the Pacific North West. Let's get some nomenclature straight here so I know what you're asking. So what's happening is the cartridge you're shooting doesn't drive the slide back with authority and the spent case simply falls onto your foot, correct?

But it is ejecting. Does the slide fail to pick up a new round and move forward into battery?

It does but it does not do it with authority pretty weak like I said.
Best/joe

 

[picker]

here is what I know men, I got some loading data out of my lymam manual and it calle dfor 3.7 grns of Bulleye and 124 jhp's and as you know , no OAL or seating depth.
when I set up my seating die I liked the way hornady 124 jhp's shot out of my Beretta, so I took a factory cartridge and I put in the seating station with the die loose, I the ran the seating die down firmly against the factory cartridge, and using a good pair of didigtal calipers measured it.
I then set the lock nut and proceeded to load a few 124 grn Hornady bullets with the same powder charge and CCI primers, shot some of them 3 magazines to be exact and they preformed flawlessly.
I had bought some round nosed FMJ 124 grn Rainier bullets from Midway and I assumed since they were 124 grns they would shoot like the Hornadys, which I have explained they did not, after thinking about this other tan being bullet design the other difference was they were longer, hence seated higher the hornadys are more pointed the round nose rainiers more round so contact the seating die sooner seating them with less depth.
I am a rank beginner at the pistol reloading bench that's why I proceed very slow have a Dillon scale that is dead on because I have weighed several bullets with it . hornady claimed they were 124 grn and my scale sez they are 124 grn weighed.

also invested in not one but 2 pair of calipers one sarlett and one didigtal Hornady and verify my measurements and bought the Dillon stainless caliber checker that checks for diameter and I thought length so, that's the story the 3.7 grns of Bulls eye will not work a Rainier round nose FMJ bullet to satisfaction and since I have several I would like to find some loading data and use them up, if not no big deal I will just throw them out.
Best/joe

 

[rushthezeppelin]

As always should add the caveat that you need to check this stuff yourself in multiple loading books or at least multiple online load charts. Never trust one book (printing errors happen, numbers get switched) and never trust one guy posting info on a forum. And of course work your load up from the bottom watching for pressure signs (very few exceptions to this rule such as doing subsonic rifle rounds like 300BLK where you want to start high and work down to consistent subsonic).

 

[picker]

As always should add the caveat that you need to check this stuff yourself in multiple loading books or at least multiple online load charts. Never trust one book (printing errors happen, numbers get switched) and never trust one guy posting info on a forum. And of course work your load up from the bottom watching for pressure signs (very few exceptions to this rule such as doing subsonic rifle rounds like 300BLK where you want to start high and work down to consistent subsonic).

What Im wondering is.............work my load up or seat the bullet deeper ?
that's why I would like to see some loading data from rainier.
Best/joe

 

[picker]

Rainier Ballistics, LLC | Load Data................. I thought this is what I did ?
Best/joe

 

[Deavis]

First, post your settings. What is your actual OAL and crimp?

Second, what manual are you using and what is the recommended settings. All manuals list an OAL, even if it is the max, 1.169" in this case.

Three, different types of bullets are different lengths. In general a JHP will be longer than a FMJ so at the same OAL the former will operate at a higher pressure due to reduced volume in the casing.

Even with a GDot Alliant lists up to 4.4 gr of bullseye. If you have nothing else, at your OAL at 1.130", your crimp at .378", primer depth at .003", and start at 3.8gr. And work up to 4.4. With a 124 you are not going to strip the plating and doom will not fall upon you.

 

[Wiliamr]

Picker, sounds like you are erring on the side of caution. This is a wise thing. With your experience in your pistol, I think you could go up another .10 or .2 grain. Load 10 of each and see what happens. Look for signs of pressure (flattened primers, punctured primer, hard extraction.) I also when I do this, load single load and check barrel after each shot to see signs of unburnt powder, lead, copper, bullet fragments. The reason we reload is not to bring price down, but to shoot more for the same price. Good luck

 

[picker]

First, post your settings. What is your actual OAL and crimp?

Second, what manual are you using and what is the recommended settings. All manuals list an OAL, even if it is the max, 1.169" in this case.

Three, different types of bullets are different lengths. In general a JHP will be longer than a FMJ so at the same OAL the former will operate at a higher pressure due to reduced volume in the casing.

Even with a GDot Alliant lists up to 4.4 gr of bullseye. If you have nothing else, at your OAL at 1.130", your crimp at .378", primer depth at .003", and start at 3.8gr. And work up to 4.4. With a 124 you are not going to strip the plating and doom will not fall upon you.

I think you are right on, I mistakenly believed since I had a Dillon 9mm cartridge checker and they fit perfect and did not protrude they would be fine.
I still don't know if Im making myself clear here .
But after they shot weak I started studying them in depth and they were longer than the Hornadys thus more volume and in the case every thing else was the same, casings bullet weight but not shape, in my mind they need to be seated with more depth.
The design of the Rainier lets the nose go farther in the die before the seating process startes, thus more case volume. I think I will adjust the seating die to seat them to a factory hornady first then decide wheter I want to go up in powder very slowly...........Best/joe

PS It might be awhile till I get back to the Rainiers and I don't have any left that are loaded but I will do one so we will have all the data before I mnove the seating die then I can get all the measurements, but what reall sticks out in my mind is OAL they were longer I just don't remember how much.
Thanks men for all the good advice,,,,,,,,,,,

PS2 Incidentally I am using the new edition Lyman manual and tit does show overall length and minimum if I am remembering correctly also the Dillon cartridge checker equals the maximum OAL in lyman manual.

 

[picker]

This. You don't want to push plated bullets past what the manufacturer suggests. I think most plated say not to push them past 1200-1400 fps. Granted with 124gr 9mm I don't even think FMJ generally get pushed this fast (been a bit since I reloaded so I can't remember off the top of my head). Of course you have the double plated that can be pushed a bit harder but I don't think rainer does this with theirs (I always used Berry's before I got into casting). Also be light on the crimp you put on them. If you break the plating you can actually have the plating on the base separate and lodge in your barrel potentially causing a kaboom if you follow it up with another round. At the very least it can cause leading issues which is a PITA to get out (all copper chore boys wrapped around a well used bore brush works but it takes alot of elbow grease).

Crimp is light I spent a considerable time making sure when I set it up.
Best/joe