Extension tube, out of spec mill work.What, besides the bolt carrier and the pistol grip?
Extension tube, out of spec mill work.What, besides the bolt carrier and the pistol grip?
I read an article a while back that advocated that viewpoint. Basically, it proposed that new users should get a cheap Del-Ton or equivalent, run 5000 rounds through it including at least a couple of basic carbine classes, and then sit down with a clean sheet of paper and spec out what you want. The idea was that until you've had some experience, you don't know what you want.
Then sell the cheap rifle and get the one that you'll keep for a long, long time.
Anybody follow that route?
You'll be happy with it.Precciate all the advice guys. Pulled the trigger on an M&P Sport II. Reviews were great, price was great, household name, and as another plus, they didn’t sell out to the government (I was almost sold on the Saint)! Seems like a solid place to start.
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Precciate all the advice guys. Pulled the trigger on an M&P Sport II. Reviews were great, price was great, household name, and as another plus, they didn’t sell out to the government (I was almost sold on the Saint)! Seems like a solid place to start.
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Precciate all the advice guys. Pulled the trigger on an M&P Sport II. Reviews were great, price was great, household name, and as another plus, they didn’t sell out to the government (I was almost sold on the Saint)! Seems like a solid place to start.
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Great advice, sir! I'm already eyeing the sparc II ;-)That’s a good call. I’m not familiar with the “Sport II”, but the originals were solid enough guns.
Keep it well lubricated (especially the BCG), get a decent optic, and enjoy shooting it.
As far as optics go, hard to beat the Vortex Sparc II for the money.
The Cabelas AR scope line is also a solid value if looking for a low power variable optic. Stick with a 1-4/6. Avoid the 3-9/12’s.
Take care
For a $1000 budget, build two. Buy two 80% lowers and make your own - one carbine, one pistol. Ammo is the key factor in making them run smooth.
Excellent points. I have seen likewise problems with reputable manufacture guns, not sure why. Also it is illegal to sell or buy a completed 80% lower build. It is for personal use only.I personally believe this isn’t sound advice. New AR buyer’s should buy a decent gun from a reputable manufacturer first.
If they want to learn and build one later, fine. But many folks just find parts and build as cheaply as possible without regard to matching the components together. Adding an 80% lower compounds the things that can go wrong.
I’ve seen way too many people at the range fiddle fricking around with guns that can’t cycle properly. They had no clue if it was a gas tube issue...a buffer issue...or what else. One guy swore it was his ammo...he said he needed 5.56 and the .223 he had sucked. I traded him 10 rounds of Federal 5.56 mil spec for 10 of his American Eagle .223 and his gun still failed to function right. Then, to prove the point, I shot the ten rounds he gave me as fast as my trigger finger would go without any issues.
And then there is the issue of resale. Few buyers who have a clue will buy a home made “Frankenstein-gun”. I know I won’t. Not worth my time or effort to take the chance on an unknown builder.
AR’s are not hard to build, but there is a right way and a half ass way. There are cheap parts and there are quality parts. Some parts can be cheap and fine, while others will cause issues.
And to the point that “ammo is the key to making them run right”, I just shake my head. Do you really want a combat and home defense gun that is “ammo finicky”? I sure don’t. I want and expect every AR I own to run a thousand rounds without fail while filthy dirty (while properly lubed) with Tula steel case crap rounds.
The real key to making your AR run right is to properly match the gas and feeding system.
Just my $0.02 you got for free on an Internet gun board.
Your statement regarding the selling/buying of a completed 80% lower is FUDD!Excellent points. I have seen likewise problems with reputable manufacture guns, not sure why. Also it is illegal to sell or buy a completed 80% lower build. It is for personal use only.
He should buy a Ruger.
Excellent points. I have seen likewise problems with reputable manufacture guns, not sure why. Also it is illegal to sell or buy a completed 80% lower build. It is for personal use only.
He should buy a Ruger.
I've been looking for a good an somewhat inexpensive AR for some time now and I've hit the point of information overload. From PSA and Radical to Diamondback and Spikes, I hear a lot of good things, some bad things, and ultimately have a hard time figuring where I should land. Of course, Colt, S&W, Ruger, and Springfield are all household names and I hear nothing but great things about Anderson as well. Ultimately, I want it as close to milspec as is appropriate and for a good price if it doesn't have a plethora of upgraded furniture. Main use is home defense, range toy, and all around general purpose on the ranch. Budget is around $1000, preferably under.
Anybody got an opinion? Thanks ahead.
This was ultimately where I landed as well. I want to build one, but I am just not experienced enough to feel comfortable picking those parts out and I wanted to be sure I had something I could rely on (and at very least call the manufacturer about if I had any issues) before I step into custom builds. I think the M&P-15 is a great starting point to build that experience and start figuring out what I like / don't like.I personally believe this isn’t sound advice. New AR buyer’s should buy a decent gun from a reputable manufacturer first.
If they want to learn and build one later, fine. But many folks just find parts and build as cheaply as possible without regard to matching the components together. Adding an 80% lower compounds the things that can go wrong.
I’ve seen way too many people at the range fiddle fricking around with guns that can’t cycle properly. They had no clue if it was a gas tube issue...a buffer issue...or what else. One guy swore it was his ammo...he said he needed 5.56 and the .223 he had sucked. I traded him 10 rounds of Federal 5.56 mil spec for 10 of his American Eagle .223 and his gun still failed to function right. Then, to prove the point, I shot the ten rounds he gave me as fast as my trigger finger would go without any issues.
And then there is the issue of resale. Few buyers who have a clue will buy a home made “Frankenstein-gun”. I know I won’t. Not worth my time or effort to take the chance on an unknown builder.
AR’s are not hard to build, but there is a right way and a half ass way. There are cheap parts and there are quality parts. Some parts can be cheap and fine, while others will cause issues.
And to the point that “ammo is the key to making them run right”, I just shake my head. Do you really want a combat and home defense gun that is “ammo finicky”? I sure don’t. I want and expect every AR I own to run a thousand rounds without fail while filthy dirty (while properly lubed) with Tula steel case crap rounds.
The real key to making your AR run right is to properly match the gas and feeding system.
Just my $0.02 you got for free on an Internet gun board.
I have a variety of AR15 rifles from rack grade to premium quality and find Colt AR15’s to be a good value.
Ruger, M&P.. seems like 6 of one, 1/2 a dozen of the other. I couldn't find anything outside of personal opinion and the occasional anecdotal situation. The M&P was $100 cheaper.Excellent points. I have seen likewise problems with reputable manufacture guns, not sure why. Also it is illegal to sell or buy a completed 80% lower build. It is for personal use only.
He should buy a Ruger.
Precciate all the advice guys. Pulled the trigger on an M&P Sport II. Reviews were great, price was great, household name, and as another plus, they didn’t sell out to the government (I was almost sold on the Saint)! Seems like a solid place to start.
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