What did you do today in the world of reloading?

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  • unicom

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    Depending on how you're working, you don't need to get lube on cases to de-prime them before cleaning. That only happens if you are only depriming during sizing. There are plenty of ways to de-prime cases without lubing them up and running them through a sizing die.

    If you need to clean your cases, de-prime without sizing.



    Putting walnut shell dust (and there's always a little, no matter how new your media is) into the primer cup doesn't seem like a good way to ensure consistent ignition. Tumble your brass, only. No primers.



    Never, NEVER, NEVER do this. Gunpowder is a particular shape, e.g flakes, spheres, little cut extrusions. It's formulated to work while in it's normal shape.

    Tumbling or using a vibratory cleaner on loaded ammo will eventually turn powder, no matter the shape, into a fine dust. When you do that, you've exponentially increased the surface area of the powder resulting in much faster ignition. As it's designed, gunpowder creates a controlled burn (a fast burn, yes, but controlled to within design specifications) that releases a lot of gas to expel a bullet. When you turn it into something resembling talcum powder, there's far less control on the burn rate. It pretty much all goes up at once.

    Basically, tumbling or vibrating ammo is a good way to turn each round into a gun-wrecking (and maybe shooter-wrecking) little bomb.

    Never use a vibratory cleaner or a tumbler to clean loaded rounds. Never.

    Thanks for the response to tumbling live rounds. I’ve read online that people do it and no issues and other people, like you, say do not ever do it. I get more never do it results on google searches then it’s ok to do it. I’m always looking to increase my reloading level. Thanks to you and dawico for you input and not trying to put me down and trying to make me look stupid for running an idea past everyone. I’m good at making myself look stupid on my own


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    benenglish

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    . I’m good at making myself look stupid on my own
    emoji1.png
    No problem. We all start somewhere and I've definitely BTDT. Heck, it took me months to figure out that I needed to lube the inside of case necks when I first started on bottleneck rifle cartridges!
     

    rotor

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    I haven't done rifle in years but what I do is deprime with a universal deprimer (Lee), clean in a corn cob vibratory (wet tumbler gives beauty but who cares), I use Lee case lube including inside the neck and resize, run through corn cob again to remove lube, trim if needed after checking with a case gage, manually prime and now ready for powder, bullet, and finally an ammo checker. I use a Lee factory crimp die on everything.
    Do you all experts agree with this routine as I am NOT an expert with rifle and haven't loaded rifle in over 5 years. Now that rifle is so expensive though....
     

    RankAmateur

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    I haven't done rifle in years but what I do is deprime with a universal deprimer (Lee), clean in a corn cob vibratory (wet tumbler gives beauty but who cares), I use Lee case lube including inside the neck and resize, run through corn cob again to remove lube, trim if needed after checking with a case gage, manually prime and now ready for powder, bullet, and finally an ammo checker. I use a Lee factory crimp die on everything.
    Do you all experts agree with this routine as I am NOT an expert with rifle and haven't loaded rifle in over 5 years. Now that rifle is so expensive though....
    Looks fine. One thought IF you're loading for precision: you could have metal flakes inside neck from trimming that could affect seating. Probably NOT a big deal, but do you brush the neck after trimming (and/or after chamfering/deburring)?
     

    thescoutranch

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    Finished installing the mini split for the room today, yesterday picked up a new workbench top for my workbench and installed it.
    The in-line fabrication hardware should be here Monday.
    Once the in-line fabrication hardware is installed, I am done!

    This re-organization of my office has been occurring for the last couple months between moving items, and re-organizing everything it has been a chore, but I’m happy with the way it’s came out.

    Photos will follow after Monday/Tuesday.

    Epp
     

    deemus

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    I resize / deprime in same operation being sure to lube case and inside of neck.

    Then I tumble them because I like shiny cases. Any trimming takes place before tumbling.

    As I prime I check for media in the flash hole.
     
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    unicom

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    I resize / deprime in same operation being sure to lube case and inside of neck.

    Then I tumble them because I like shiny cases. Any trimming takes place before tumbling.

    As I prime I check for media in the flash hole.

    I was hoping there was a way to prevent media from getting in the flash hole when tumbling.


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    RankAmateur

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    I was hoping there was a way to prevent media from getting in the flash hole when tumbling.


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    Some people don't worry about cleaning primer pockets, so they remove the decapping pin from their sizing die. They resize, trim as necessary, and then tumble. They then use a universal decapping die on the cleaned brass.

    Doesn't absolutely prevent media from getting into the flash hole from the inside of the case, but anything that gets stuck there is removed during decapping, so it's irrelevant. You end up with clean brass with dirty primer pockets and nothing in the flash holes. I don't know of anyone who has been unable to reprime their brass because the primer pockets aren't shiny (grin). The downside for most is that you are running dirty brass through your sizing die.
     

    benenglish

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    I was hoping there was a way to prevent media from getting in the flash hole when tumbling.
    I've always used a handheld priming tool so every flash hole gets inspected. I can see where you would be concerned about the matter if you prime using a press.

    The downside for most is that you are running dirty brass through your sizing die.

    That became a big deal to me after I ruined a set of .44 Magnum dies with (literally) sandy brass. Since then, that's the reason I've always deprimed, cleaned, then hand-primed my brass. That sidesteps all the problems with which unicorn is dealing.

    Obviously, high-volume reloading, where everything is done on a progressive press, is a subject far removed from my experience.
     

    Dawico

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    I haven't done rifle in years but what I do is deprime with a universal deprimer (Lee), clean in a corn cob vibratory (wet tumbler gives beauty but who cares), I use Lee case lube including inside the neck and resize, run through corn cob again to remove lube, trim if needed after checking with a case gage, manually prime and now ready for powder, bullet, and finally an ammo checker. I use a Lee factory crimp die on everything.
    Do you all experts agree with this routine as I am NOT an expert with rifle and haven't loaded rifle in over 5 years. Now that rifle is so expensive though....
    I don't crimp any rifle rounds. Good neck tension is all you need.

    Note: if I loaded for tube magazines then I would. Magnum handgun rounds get crimped too.

    There's always a big debate on auto loading rifles (ARs specifically) but I don't crimp them. Proper neck tension has served me well.
     

    smtimelevi

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    Sent some 6.5 creedmoor across the chrono today. First load was with 140 grain BTHP’s and IMR4350. This was the second time trying to clock this load. First time I tried to chrono them, battery was dead when I got to the range. I shot them anyway, and got excellent groups, just over 1/4”! Shot great again today, .34” 5 shot group, but speed wasn’t where I thought it would be. Average of 2604 with a SD of 10. Shot some 140 ELD match with Superformance across the chrono too. Best group was just under 1/2” with similar numbers as the BTHP’s, averaging about 2600 fps with a SD of 11. Guess that’s my rifles “sweet spot”.


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    What rifle? Bbl length etc? you run it up at all? im getting 2800 fps w H4350 from a 24" Savage. I got some IMR 4350 to try also
     

    smtimelevi

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    Ran some 308 for accuracy test. 168, 175 smk's. IMR-4064, Higher charge weights than before. looks like 43.1 gr in LC brass at 2650 was the winner.Did some case prep
     
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    rotor

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    I don't crimp any rifle rounds. Good neck tension is all you need.

    Note: if I loaded for tube magazines then I would. Magnum handgun rounds get crimped too.

    There's always a big debate on auto loading rifles (ARs specifically) but I don't crimp them. Proper neck tension has served me well.
    Do you think it hurts to use the factory crimp die on rifle (AR15)?
     

    MTA

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    What did you get? My order for midline is due Monday.

    I hope they did not delete my order a day or two just to get you yours on time LOL

    ETA- I just saw your photos.
    Riser for hornady classic, die holder and bin system. Worth every cent imo

    I did find out that my old pacific 30-06 full sizer has a bent decap rod while testing out the new setup. Amazon had a new rcbs set on sale for $26
     
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