Hurley's Gold

Which Reloading Manual(s) for a Newbie?

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  • TX 1911

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    Dec 27, 2017
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    Just bought a Hornady LNL AP to start reloading. I realize most people suggest starting with a single-stage, point out that ammo is cheap right now, mention the dangers of reloading, etc. But this is something I intend to pursue as a hobby and I'm pretty meticulous about details.

    Having said that, I realize there is much to learn before loading the feeders and cranking out rounds. What manual(s) would you suggest I read to learn how to do this properly, safely, and effectively?
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    Younggun

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    I have an old Lee and a newer Lyman manual. Both have good info and lots of loads. The Hodgdon site also has load info for their powders.

    For learning the process I recommend having someone come over and go through the process with you. Experienced eyes can be far more valuable than a manual when it comes to loading the first rounds.
     
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    Dawico

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    The Lyman manual is great. It is where I learned. I hear ABCs is good as well.

    Read first then move on to the online sources like videos and such.

    The Lee book has the most load data. It is a compilation of many different sources.
     

    Vaquero

    Moving stuff to the gas prices thread.....
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    I've had, or do have, a manual from most every bullet or press manufacturer. Any of these do a good job of explaining the step by step procedures. Some go deeper into accuracy tips and such.
    My RCBS was my first and remains my favorite for procedures.
    Many changes in bullets and powders since it was published, but the mechanics haven't changed.
     

    ed308

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    The Lyman manual is a good book to start with. Plus it has some reloading data. I also started out on a progressive (Dillon 650) so it can be done. Just break down the process into manageable steps instead of going full progressive.
     

    deemus

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    Lyman, Lee, and the bullet manufacturers are a good start. I have a Hornady book for the Hornady bullets I shoot, and also a Nosler.

    Some powder manufacturers produce good manuals too.

    Good advice on learning the process.
     

    Kosh75287

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    If you plan to use projectiles made by a particular manufacturer, I'D be inclined to buy THEIR manual. For cast projectiles, I think Lyman is difficult to beat.

    It's not likely that manuals from two different sources will have identical data (unless one publisher bought it from the other), so don't be TOO concerned if the charge weights & velocities aren't as close as you might expect. Just start low (10% under max, usually), at a prudent charge weight and work upwards SLOWLY (0.1 or 0.2gr., usually), until you get desired results or arrive at the maximum load listed.
     

    ROGER4314

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    I have over 20 manuals and compare the recipes regularly. There is little agreement between them!

    Best all around manual.........Lyman #50!

    Flash
     

    deemus

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    If you plan to use projectiles made by a particular manufacturer, I'D be inclined to buy THEIR manual. For cast projectiles, I think Lyman is difficult to beat.

    It's not likely that manuals from two different sources will have identical data (unless one publisher bought it from the other), so don't be TOO concerned if the charge weights & velocities aren't as close as you might expect. Just start low (10% under max, usually), at a prudent charge weight and work upwards SLOWLY (0.1 or 0.2gr., usually), until you get desired results or arrive at the maximum load listed.

    Thats assuming he wants max loads. At least half my loads are reduced recoil loads, no where near max.
     

    Kosh75287

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    I think what I said was that the OP should start low and work upwards, by increasing the charge weight in 0.1gr. to 0.2gr. increments, until desired results are obtained or the max charge is reached. If the starting load weight delivers desired performance, the work-up is all but finished. I've observed, however, that certain propellant/projectile combinations give "okay/not terrific" results with starting loads, but tend to improve as charge weights (thus, pressures) increase. I'VE been reloading off and on for 40 years. I think maybe a handful of worked up loads delivered best accuracy & velocity at maximum loads. Generally, the load at which things seem to all come together is 2% to 6% of max.
    If the OP's intent is to produce ammunition that gives performance somewhat under what is available from factory ammo (aka "desired results"), then I agree that working up to the max charge is unnecessary.

    I, too, shoot a fairly large volume of reduced velocity reloads in .38 Special, .45 ACP, .45 Colt and, recently, .40 S&W. There are various rifle rounds for which I do the same thing.
     

    picker

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    Just bought a Hornady LNL AP to start reloading. I realize most people suggest starting with a single-stage, point out that ammo is cheap right now, mention the dangers of reloading, etc. But this is something I intend to pursue as a hobby and I'm pretty meticulous about details.

    Having said that, I realize there is much to learn before loading the feeders and cranking out rounds. What manual(s) would you suggest I read to learn how to do this properly, safely, and effectively?

    As many as you can afford, don't hurry your hobby.
    Best/joe
     

    schmellba99

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    Mar 30, 2008
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    The Speer 13th Edition has been my bible for a while now. I have plenty of others, but it is always my go-to. Great information up front about the processes and the reasonings behind why you do certain things.

    With your LnL AP - don't get wrapped up in the number of rounds per hour you can do. I firmly believe that, like 1 ton diesel mileage, what you read on the internet is inflated numbers. Spend the time and worry about quality, not quantity. When in doubt, pull the round and start over. No single component is worth the change if you have doubt - you are talking literally about $.25 worth of powder or projectile or brass or primer - it's not worth it.

    I would highly suggest you start off with your press by doing a single round at a time and go through each stage until you are very comfortable with how the press feels, how the dies feel, how the powder drop linkage operates, etc. Then slowly add another round into the mix working with 2 rounds until you are comfortable with the additional steps and visual requirements involved. Then add another, same process. You'll eventually get a full plate, but don't jump into it or think you need to.

    Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
     

    sabot_round

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    I prefer the Hornady manuals because of their extra information about cartridge origins and parent cartridges. I tend to format cartridges from parent cases a lot because I like tinkering, and it's economical. The Hornady manual has helped tremendously during my endeavors, and it's a gift that keeps on giving!!
     
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