That's the same wagon I have..... less the looks, suspension, seats, brakes, twice the power.Wagons are the best
Tyler of Hoovies Garage (YouTube) got a cheap E63 Wagon and documented his issues/fixes in a series of vids. Some of the issues are similar to what you found, obviously different engines.
Y’all have a lot of patience working on older German cars
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That's the same wagon I have..... less the looks, suspension, seats, brakes, twice the power.
The AMG wagons have the lowest production numbers. I would grab one if I could afford it.
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I have rebuilt a handfull of those 6.3 motors from top end failure. Being stuck in the dealer life I cant dictate cost. Parts has there own markup over list and labor is set by the man. The only way I can help is to work for free in a sense. In that particular case it is lazy quoting. If the block is not damaged there is no need to quote a complete engine. Labot to fully disassemble and reassemble is probably only like 30 or 35 hours including removal.Since you mentioned the R-Class...did you read about the guy who bought a used R63 AMG, engine fails, and is quoted $57k at the dealer to replace it?
He fixed it himself, eventually...
Lots of drama LOL
https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cu...ebuilding-his-engine-to-avoid-a-57000-repair/
https://www.thedrive.com/sheetmetal...tes-what-wouldve-been-57000-in-engine-repairs
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It's not the battery. Could be a bad cable somewhere, and I'll start doing drop voltage tests to isolate that. I also plan on testing the resting current draw. I have an icky feeling that a module somewhere is shorted out and putting a load on the system.Weak battery, worn starter, corroded cables or cable connections, loose grounds, etc.
I just walked two of my trainees through the quiescent current draw diagnosis. It was a picture perfect job. Specific vehicle was 2008 Mercedes ML350. We had replaced the battery a month ago. Came back dead. Had a draw of 0.145A. The target would be 0.05A or less.It's not the battery. Could be a bad cable somewhere, and I'll start doing drop voltage tests to isolate that. I also plan on testing the resting current draw. I have an icky feeling that a module somewhere is shorted out and putting a load on the system.
Why not start off with the amp clamp? No chance of blowing up a meter that way; not that I would know anything about thatWe started at the battery to confirm the draw with a meter in series. From there, we used an amp clamp to check the different legs to the front and rear fuse boxes and SAM modules.
Took care of it today with the nicer weather. Ran a vacuum through it too.I looked at my disgusting truck knowing it needs a bath. I then looked at the thermometer knowing it ain't going to happen today.
To say the last job was a mess would be a big understatement. Didn't get stuck though even with the trailer on.
This is after driving home all day in the rain. View attachment 200380