Canik must employ the same Gorillas in Heat that put the lids on 16 oz plastic bottled cokes.
that’s F’n funny
Canik must employ the same Gorillas in Heat that put the lids on 16 oz plastic bottled cokes.
[QUOTE = I have had that happen with a few hex screws too. One other suggestion is to hammer a slightly larger torx bit into the stripped hole and see if you can twist it out.
Try this as mentioned above.
i will go that route after i completely smurf the original allen head. but it’s still in a tight spot either way i go about it. that’s my biggest issue
i’ve got a 1/16 allen screw that won’t come out. holds the bolt release. i haven’t completely stripped it out but i’ve tried 1/2 dozen times heating up the wrench red hot and blow dryer to the receiver where screw sits. blue loctite. i can’t get straight on with this 3/8 drive i bought. the little allen wrench with a cheater for leverage wouldn’t budge it. i think the 3/8 with a ratchet should get it done but not at a slight angle.
even if it came to removal with extractor i couldn’t get straight at it. i don’t want to put real heat from a torch to the receiver because i spent too much cash prepping & painting. i just can’t do it
Who makes that lower? Every lower I have uses a roll pin, not a screw, to hold the bolt catch/release in place.
Good soldering iron to heat the screw. Will need to be a fairly high amp model or the receiver will just act as a large heat sink and draw off all the energy. Probably why the heated Allen wouldn’t work.
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Learn something every day.it’s a 308 frame. which uses screw instead of pin
Heat makes the bolt expand. Freeze the tool and hair dryer blow the frame.
like when i had to seat a bearing assembly: freeze the bearing & heat the part/bearing-race.
freeze the tool in order to transfer the cold to the screw? that wouldn’t work if i’m heating the surrounding frame
i will give her the old college try but i’m not optimistic. that little bitty screw hasn’t budged. if freezing the wrench does the trick i will do a flat footed backflipHeat the frame and then apply the frozen tool, not at the same time.
considering all the time & money i have in the diy blasting, prep & cerakote finish i don’t have intentions of damaging my “paint”Since aluminum expands at nearly twice the rate of steel cooling the set screw probably won’t be a big deal.
But if it’s got locktight on it it’s gonna have to get hot enough to break down or it won’t matter much. 350-450 degrees depending on type and breaking down the loctite will matter a lot more than the expansion rates.
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Driving a bit bigger wrench/ Torx head in is always helpful too. The bigger tool and the hitting action definitely help.