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"See What You Need To See" With Your Sights: From Accuracy To Speed

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  • SIG_Fiend

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    "See what you need to see" is an often heavily over-used term in the firearms training world, that isn't often followed with an explanation as to exactly what that means. As with all things in shooting, there are very few absolutes, and marksmanship fundamentals typically exist on an infinitely variable scale which is dependent on the constraints of what a shot requires. What that means is, there are varying degrees of "what you need to see", which is dependent on what is needed to make the shot. These factors could be:



    • Time dependent
    • Distance dependent
    • Target size-dependent

    For example, the traditional sight focus consists of a front sight, aligned with the rear sight, equal amounts of light on either side of the front sight blade, both sights aligned perfectly even across the top, with a hard front sight focus that puts the front sight in crystal clear focus with the target and rear sight blurry. This is the traditional sight picture and focus that is often taught. With this extreme degree of front sight focus, you will have the front sight in such perfect focus that you can make out the serrations on it, pick out any imperfections, and generally see the front sight in great detail. For the utmost accuracy, a hard front sight focus might be "what you need to see" to accomplish the shot based on whatever accuracy constraints may exist. For many shots...this degree of focus might also be excessive and totally unnecessary, reducing the overall speed of your shot(s). As always, the target will ultimately dictate the degree of what you need to see to accomplish the shot.

    The above described sight focus might be ideal for extreme accuracy, accuracy at distance, and generally achieving a shot of a high level of difficulty. However, this does not describe all types of shots. The way I like to think of the basic fundamentals of shooting is that each fundamental is on an infinitely variable scale. On one end of the scale is the fastest possible speed. On the other end is the utmost in precision/accuracy. In learning to improve one's shooting performance, ultimately you are learning to make judgment calls on what equates to the maximum level of precision or speed you can exercise with a given fundamental for a particular shot. For example, at 3yds and shooting at an IPSC A and B zone, you would probably choose to use one type of sight focus, one type of trigger pull, and in general one end of the spectrum for each of the fundamentals, to squeeze out maximum speed while still maintaining acceptable accuracy. For many shooters, in that scenario, you might choose to use a "soft" sight focus (which I'll explain later), strong grip, and fast trigger control at the expense of accuracy, since we're only talking about 3yds. For other shooters that have true mastery of their fundamentals, in certain cases you might actually see a really experienced shooter at close range firing from a #3 position of drawstroke (aka "chest ready", compressed muzzle, muzzle parallel to the ground, firing from the ready position or partial extension), and actually still maintaining a tight group while using more of a body index on target (still sighted fire, technically, just a lower degree). For the highly experienced shooter, choosing alternatives like that may allow you to really push speed while still maintaining an acceptable degree of accuracy. In the case of this later example, the context of what the shooter "needed to see" may have been focusing intently on the point of the target they wanted to hit, and more importantly feeling the same familiar feelings of their lower body and upper body in alignment, natural point of aim (NPA), their arms, elbows, wrists and firing grip, all aligned in a familiar #3 position they've practiced many times before. The extreme end of this spectrum might be guys like Taran Butler, who often shoot stages from retention/ready positions or pure "point shooting" positions from the waist. It being possible for guys like that, because they have developed such a familiarity with their body parts, fundamentals, etc. that they can feel and maintain a somewhat consistent NPA even without the sights. In effect "feeling what they need to feel".



    If you're shooting a 25yd B-8 bullseye target for score with a standard service pistol, you will most likely use another type of sight focus, trigger pull, and other fundamentals entirely. In this example, your sight focus might look more like the traditional description of sight focus, as you need a higher degree of differentiating absolutely perfect sight alignment. At this distance, errors in trigger control, sight alignment and other fundamentals are amplified significantly. So in this case, what you needed to see might have been a crystal clear front sight so that you could ensure it maintained perfect alignment during and through the trigger pull, so that you could "call the shot" and know whether you exercised the fundamentals perfectly or not. One thing to keep in mind is, even at this distance, "seeing what you need to see" is still entirely dependent on the individual shooter, and still totally different from person to person. For most shooters, yes, once you start reaching 25+yds, I would say a significant percentage of shooters are likely going to need to utilize a similar hard front sight focus. That being said, for more experienced shooters, some might not. I've heard of a number of very experienced competition shooters that actually still utilize a soft sight focus out to 25yds, and I think a few can even push it out farther than that. They are able to do that, because they have such mastery of their fundamentals and such an acute awareness of how they exercise them, as well as a significant degree of consistency, that they are able to maintain good sight alignment, good trigger control, and good usage of their other fundamentals without needing to see the sights in perfect clarity. This may not be you, and that's totally fine. The most important thing is to experiment and figure out what YOU need to make a given shot under its given constraints. If it's hard front sight focus at 25yds, but you can do it consistently, then excellent! Now you know where you need to be, so work on maintaining that, and eventually pushing yourself. Eventually you might be able to minimize the degree with which you need to see, so that you can fire in a more relaxed manner (soft sight focus) while still maintaining a good degree of accuracy. This applies at ALL distances.

    So with the fundamentals on a variable scale, how do we determine when we switch to various points on that scale? It is going to be determined by many factors, including some of the following most common factors:



    • Time: Is the shot timed or are there other factors that necessitate having the quickest possible shot? You need a shot timer for this. Typically we're talking about tenths of a second. Absolutely being able to identify, maintain, and improve those tenths of a second is necessary if you want to attain an appreciable level of skill and speed.



    • Distance: Is the target far or close? What are the time constraints for the shot? Is the shot far enough, or are your sights in such a configuration that you will need to take into account a hold over/under or bullet drop? The key here is bench resting your gun (yes your handgun) and absolutely knowing where it shoots at certain distances so there's no guessing game. It is fairly common to find with most pistol sight configurations that your POI / POA (point of impact / point of aim) from 0-7yds might be totally different and off by several inches from 7-25+yds.



    • Difficulty: What is the size of the target? Are you shooting for score? Are you shooting for a specific outcome on target (steel, steel activator, mover, stopping a threat)?



    In physical science the first essential step in the direction of learning any subject is to find principles of numerical reckoning and practicable methods for measuring some quality connected with it. I often say that when you can measure what you are speaking about, and express it in numbers, you know something about it; but when you cannot measure it, when you cannot express it in numbers, your knowledge is of a meagre and unsatisfactory kind; it may be the beginning of knowledge, but you have scarcely in your thoughts advanced to the state of Science, whatever the matter may be.

    -Baron William Thomson Kelvin
    [PLA, vol. 1, "Electrical Units of Measurement", 1883-05-03]


    Lets break these down a bit further and explain how and why you might vary the way you utilize certain fundamentals for a particular shot.
     

    SIG_Fiend

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    Time & Distance:

    If time is not a factor, based on the type of shooting you're doing, then you don't have to worry about this so much. If you are shooting for many types of competition, or learning to improve your defensive skills, time is much more of a factor to constantly work towards improving. I'd highly recommend buying a shot timer so that you can realistically measure and keep track of your performance in this realm. It's the best $100 investment you can make in a piece of shooting gear. Generally speaking, as a target becomes smaller or is at a farther distance, the speed with which you can make that shot is going to decrease if you want to maintain accuracy. Once you have a shot timer, I'd recommend shooting at a few different distances and doing a few shot strings at a few different speeds to start gauging where your current performance level is. For example, at 5yds and from the holster, benchmark a speed where you feel comfortable. Lets say you're pretty comfortable at 2.0 seconds to make an A-zone shot at 5yds from the holster. So start at 2.0 seconds. Now try to push that to 1.8 seconds. Keep trying to shave a tenth or a couple tenths of a second off until you're at 1.5 seconds or faster. How did this affect your groups? How to increase that speed is a subject that demands its own thread, so I'll keep it general here. Now do the same thing at 10yds, at 15yds, and eventually out to longer distances like 25yds+. Many of the top level pistol shooters out there will even perform similar drills out to 40-50+yds to really push the limits of their fundamentals. The key here is knowing what speed you can get away with based on the other constraints of the shot (distance, target size, etc.). The other key is knowing what shot group you can maintain at a given distance and at a given speed. In terms of distance training, one thing I definitely recommend incorporating into your training from time to time is shooting NRA B-8 bullseyes for score at 25yds. Push it farther and with different targets once you master that. Here's an example of one fun way you might be able to combine both speed and distance to challenge yourself:



    Difficulty:

    One man's difficult shot is another man's simple shot. As with everything else, you need to determine what constitutes a difficult shot for you. Is it shooting at or beyond a certain speed? Maybe it's shooting at or beyond a certain distance. Maybe it's shooting at certain types or sizes of targets. Just keep in mind, any easy shot can be made difficult by simply changing a variable or two with added speed, distance, or decreased target size. For example, say you train pretty consistently at close ranges. You work your concealed draws and know absolutely for a fact that you can bust out 1.3-1.5 second draws from concealment to first shot in the A-zone of an IPSC or IDPA target. Okay, not bad. What if that's not the target you're given? What if a particular shot is the "credit card" area (CNS) in the head of an IPSC / IDPA target? Can you maintain that speed under a much tighter shot like that? How about an eye socket? Often, people will think very generally and on a very simplistic level about what constitutes a "difficult" shot, such as thinking anything within 7yds is a piece of cake. For a lot of people, practicing maximum speed and maybe concealed draws while maintaining an eye socket or credit card shot group at even 3yds might prove to be difficult for them. Just remember to keep in mind, to increase difficulty, add speed, distance, or reduced target size. If you start to get comfortable in your training, start thinking about introducing an added degree of 1 or more of those 3 factors to keep the pressure on yourself to continue improving your performance.
     

    SIG_Fiend

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    What You Might Need To See For Shooting At Speed. The Soft Focus:

    As far as what soft focus is, this is a bit tough to put into words, but I'll do my best. If a picture is worth a thousand words, experiencing it yourself is worth a thousand pictures. You will know what I mean if you're new to a soft focus and once you experience it for the first time. It will feel effortless. In short, think about the definition of a HARD front sight focus. In effect, you are basically developing tunnel vision in on the front sight to a very fine degree. Think of your vision like a cone. In a hard sight focus, you are restricting that cone down to the size of the front sight itself, and possibly even to a very specific and microscopic point on the front sight. In doing this, you have also restricted your peripheral vision and are straining your eyes hard to maintain this focus. It can tend to be exhausting. Now imagine doing exactly the opposite and increasing the size of that cone so that you are not necessarily focused on one exact spot. The cone widens. You now have increased peripheral vision, are more aware of your surroundings. Your eye muscles and pupils are more relaxed. Instead of seeing a crystal clear front sight, you now see a blurry front and rear sight. Depending on how you relaxed or refocused your "cone" of vision, you may also see a blurry target, or in some cases for some shots, you might actually be focused on the target at the exact point at which you want to shoot the target. Either way, you will see a blurry front and rear sight. Would you believe me if I told you that you could actually focus on the target in some cases and still achieve accurate and consistent shots? Well, you can sometimes. Some major factors to note here are your degree of mastery with your other fundamentals. If you have a solid and consistent grip, an excellent range of trigger control at different speeds, good upper body stance and consistent extension of the gun, etc. you will naturally be able to maintain consistent sight alignment to a much better degree than someone that doesn't have the same level of fundamental mastery. The more consistent you are with those fundamentals, the more you will be able to get away with if relaxing your sight focus to more of a soft sight focus. This is something I highly recommend experimenting with. Many people have shot and trained for years, pretty much solely using a hard front sight focus, and have still attained an acceptable and commendable level of performance, and that's great. There are always other things to experiment with, however, and other ways to try and push one's self to higher levels of performance.


    11676247886_fc7913447a_o.jpg



    To try experimenting with a soft sight focus, first start at a distance you feel very comfortable. You will need a shot timer, and you'll want to measure or at least keep track of your groups to determine what's working, what isn't, and what still needs work. Lets say you start at 3yds. First, start with the hard front sight focus you might be used to. Fire a 5 shot group at a given speed / split time or under a realistic par time. Now try backing off your sight focus so that you're either focused on your intended POI on target, or simply looking through the sights as opposed to focused on them. Once you feel like you have a soft focus you can deal with, fire a 5 shot group at the same split/par time of your previous string. What's different? Did your groups enlarge? Did they stay the same? Note it and move to the next string. Start gradually increasing speed, target size, or distance. Take note of where you're still maintaining what you feel is acceptable performance with a soft focus, at various distances, target sizes, and speeds, up to the point where things start to fall off the tracks. Now you're starting to find some of your limits. Now push those limits a bit farther, so you really come off the tracks. Lets say you find that you can actually shoot a decent and consistent group at 5-7yds with a soft sight focus and shooting .25 second splits. Well how about trying to push that to .15-.17 splits, or instead maintaining the same split time and pushing the target to 10yds while still maintaining that sight focus? Think of different ways you can really push yourself here. The goal is learning to relax your vision, simply look through the sights without staring at them until your eyes bleed, and seeing enough of what you need to see with the sights to make an acceptable shot at an acceptable level of performance for whatever the target dictates. Once you start getting used to using a soft focus at closer ranges, you will find that things become considerably easier and often much less stressful as you are no longer straining your eyes so hard, but rather you are simply looking and shooting the gun.
     

    SIG_Fiend

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    What You Might Need To See For The Best Accuracy:

    16319094082_72884aa867_o.jpg



    The classic front sight focused sight picture. Front sight and rear sight in alignment, perfectly even across the top, equal amounts of light on both sides of the front sight in the rear notch, the front sight in focus and crystal clear. The other part of that is placing the appropriate part of the sight on your intended POA. For some, this might be using the top of the front sight. For other sight configurations, this might mean a "combat hold" aka covering POA with the center of the front sight or dot on the front sight. For some sight configs, you might actually have to use both, such as a "combat hold" at 0-7yds, and then ~10-25yds maybe a standard hold with the top of the front sight splitting the target. Another yet is the 6 o'clock hold, where POI might actually be a few inches above the top of the front sight, so you effectively hold under the target. Either way, you will probably want to benchrest your gun and find out exactly where POA vs POI is at different distances, and maybe even with some different bullet weights just for fun.

    The Focal Shift:

    When using a hard front sight focus, how might this affect other aspects of performance? Typically, with a hard focus on the front sight, you will likely be straining the muscles in your eyes to maintain that focus. You will tend to have a reduced peripheral vision, and you might find that you are slowed down due to the necessity of the additional degrees of "focal shift". What I mean by that is, in truly learning to shoot well, you must also learn to perform a focal shift, IE - shifting focus from your sights, to the target, to the next target, back to the sights, and so on. Higher levels of performance can only really be attained when you've learned to truly shift focus to exactly what you want to hit, and then allow your body to bring the gun and sights to that exact point. This takes practice, but you can easily try this at home. Take your finger, shift focus to something in the distance, now bring your hand to the spot where you've focused. Do this a few times and you'll probably find that it's fairly easy to just look and focus in on a spot and bring your finger right to that exact spot. With a gun and sights, which have two reference points as opposed to the one point with your finger, this is more difficult. Achieving it will take building consistency with your grip, your upper body "stance" and extension of the gun. Once you have that, your body will do the rest. With higher levels of performance shooting, and when a front sight focus is necessary, this is effectively what many top level shooters are doing. They are simply looking and focusing on what they want to shoot, and letting their body do the rest instead of necessarily trying to force it.

    So to give an example of what this would be like, lets say you're shooting 3 targets, spaced evenly apart at 10yds. Something maybe similar to an El Presidente drill. Lets also say that you're not 100% comfortable shooting at 10yds, and you know that you can't get away with a soft focus. To shoot the targets, this would probably be the order of events that would need to occur, if you're trying to maintain a good degree of accuracy given the above mentioned constraints:


    • First, shift focus to the target and your intended POA
    • Next, bring the gun to the point of the target you've focused on
    • Once the gun is there, you now need to shift focus to the front sight. In effect, you are shifting visual focus from a distance of 10yds to a distance more like 2-3 feet (distance from the front sight to your eye)
    • This is assuming you've already made the decision to shoot
    • Break the shot
    • Shift focus to the next target
    • With excellent followthrough, you will simultaneously be "riding the recoil" and letting the muzzle return from recoil to the new spot on the next target you are shifting focus to
    • Focal shift to the front sight
    • Break the shot
    • Followthrough while shifting focus to the third target
    • Focal shift to the front sight
    • Break the shot

    Kind of a LOT going on there, when you really break the mechanics down. With some shots, there's no way around this, and this may simply be what you must do to achieve a desired degree of accuracy based on the distance and shot difficulty. As you can see from that description, we're talking about significantly extra work with focal shifting multiple times within fractions of a second. This adds up to TIME. It also adds up to a lot of additional mental stress. Generally speaking, shooting with a hard front sight focus is possibly going to reduce your peripheral vision, might add extra mental and visual stress to your shooting, may decrease the speed at which you can shoot while maintaining an acceptable degree of accuracy, and in some cases may obscure important target information. For example, if you have a hard front sight focus while pointing your gun at a possible threat, how can you then make out what they are doing with their hands? Did they cease being a threat and drop their weapon?
     
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