San Antonio AR Lower Receiver Build

[KBMiii]

Hello, I am trying to build a lower receiver and the roll pins are seriously kicking my butt. I have looked at several gunsmiths in the San Antonio area and the cheapest price I have found is $75.
If anyone is up for helping me, I would greatly appreciate it.

Ken

 

[toddnjoyce]

Hello, I am trying to build a lower receiver and the roll pins are seriously kicking my butt. I have looked at several gunsmiths in the San Antonio area and the cheapest price I have found is $75.
If anyone is up for helping me, I would greatly appreciate it.

Ken

What problem are you having with the roll pins?

 

[KBMiii]

To be honest, it is a combination of improper tools and inexperience. I have watched several YT videos and they make it look so easy, but I have had no luck with the suckers. Again, I am sure they WOULD go in pretty easy if I had a good vise and the proper tools.

Ken

 

[Fishkiller]

I had the same dilemma. First put some painters tape around the hole. I then used a needle nose pliers and brass boiler inspection hammer. I laid it on the work bens and supported with shims to keep the lower level. Tap a few time to get it started then drive it home. I used a center punch to finish. If you take your time it comes out right. It is just rather detail oriented.

 

[Chewbacca7685]

I bought the real avid pin punch kit. It is a lifesaver man.


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[Huntsman52]

You can also use some channel locks for some of the roll pins. put tape around the jaws to protect the receiver finish. Youtube has some vids on this
and it does work. You can also pinch one end of the roll pin to help get it smaller than the hole to help it start out.

 

[zackmars]

Which roll pin? The BHO can be a pain, i use an allen wrench as a slave pin, and use the Brownells punches to drive the pin in.


The avid tools are cheap, but should suffice for one or two builds.

For the trigger guard, either tape the opposite side and use some channel locks to drive the pin in, or use a wood block or armorer's block to support the opposite side of the pin hole, and drive in the pin the old fashioned way.

 

[PinnedandRecessed]

i use an allen wrench as a slave pin, and use the Brownells punches to drive the pin in.

This. In addition, I add some electrical tape to safeguard the finish.

 

[zackmars]

This. In addition, I add some electrical tape to safeguard the finish.

Scratches build character. People pay hundreds of dollars for a battleworn finish, after all.

 

[PinnedandRecessed]

Scratches build character. People pay hundreds of dollars for a battleworn finish, after all.

Depends on the scratch. Scratch from hard use, OK. Scratch from improper assembly/maintenance, not so much.

 

[zackmars]

Depends on the scratch. Scratch from hard use, OK. Scratch from improper assembly/maintenance, not so much.
View attachment 385331
View attachment 385332

Just means you need to scratch it up more!

 

[baboon]

You can also use some channel locks for some of the roll pins. put tape around the jaws to protect the receiver finish. Youtube has some vids on this
and it does work. You can also pinch one end of the roll pin to help get it smaller than the hole to help it start out.

This is how I do the BHO roll pin. When you get to detent springs I work on a bath towel so if I launch them hopefully the towel catches them and they are easier to find. I have lost them in dog hair once they hit the floor.

 

[andre3k]

I struggled with my first couple of builds until I bought a set of roll pin punches and starter punches, makes life easier. I use a scrap piece of 2x4 as my bench block to work on. Also invest in a spare set of detents and springs because they will launch into the next county.

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[Huntsman52]

Also a micro c clamp works in lieu of channel locks, just a bit more time consuming.

 

[G O B]

Pin punches and a vice are under $75.

 

[KBMiii]

Thanks for all of the advice! As you can see, I was able to (mostly) complete it. Now I just need to finish the trigger guard, torque the castle nut and the scope mount, lube her up, and she should be GTG!
Again, I do appreciate the comments and encouragement! This was truly satisfying, being able to build the lower.

Ken

 

[JandK]

Sometimes the finish is to thick. So small round jewelry files will clean the roll pin holes up. Just lightly touch them your not wanting to remove material. Drop of oil on pin and in hole before installing pin. Starter punches help too.

 

[dobarker]

My first few builds (after the first learning curve) I learned that when using the improper punches I had on hand: to set spring loaded detents, wear safety glasses, lay down a white sheet or towel as mentioned earlier, throw a large sheet over yourself and your work, then, try to set the detent pins. If they launch, they hit the sheet and fall at your feet on a white towel. I must have lost at least $6 and 2 weeks on my first build because of launched detents and improper tools…
I’ve learned since that on roll pins, if you use your finger tips and finger nails to get them roughly inline and give it one gentle tap, they’ll make enough friction to allow you to then line them up while in the hole and drive them home.

Just noticed the snuff cans in the picture, save a few of those. They make good random small part cans.

 

[Gordo]

I have done away with 99% of the roll pins on my builds.
Use screw-on trigger guards, and the screw in Aero BHO pin.
Only have one forged upper that still has a forward assist, and made my own screw in pin, like the Aero.
The only roll pin is the one holding the knob on the forward assist.

With that said, when I do have to use a roll pin in anything, I slightly crush one end, so it starts easily.

Pivot pin detents are a breeze with the Real Avid tool for assembling them into the lower, and it only cost like $10.

And for god's sake, don't buy any tool made by Wheeler!
They all suck.

 

[PinnedandRecessed]

don't buy any tool made by Wheeler!

I'm not vouching for all Wheeler tools but I have a "FAT Wrench" that has been quite good for many years.