I like the M14/M1a

[HD-Ghost]

For those that like the M14/M1a rifle, I thought about putting up a thread for those that like to tinker.

Simple mods to increase the accuracy of your M1a/M14.
1. If you have a newer SAI rifle with a plastic or synthetic stock, get rid of it (the stock). These, I believe, are made by Hogue. They are not very rigid, and the metal rifle parts will torque inconsistently within the stock making it less accurate.

USGI wooden and fiberglass stocks are great. SAI has contracted with Boyds and Fajen over the years to make their wooden stocks. These are also good.

How the firing mechanism locks up between the stock and receiver should be very tight. This is one of the reasons that people glass-bed their rifles. Glass-bedding is only necessary when trying to get sub-MOA out of your rifle.

More to come if ya'll are interested.

 

[leVieux]

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Being in a non-combat US Army unit way back when, we were late getting the new black “Stoner” rifles. About 80% of the unit were Medical Officers, and probably didn’t know the difference; but the few of us who did surely wanted to keep the M14’s.

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[HD-Ghost]

2. Easy, and inexpensive, is to change out the op-rod spring guide with a NM round one. Originally, we (AMU personnel) made these by attaching (pinning, welding, etc.) a round rod to the head of a USGI guide. Now, companies like Sadlak, Fulton,, etc make commercial ones. The purpose of the NM guide is to keep the recoil spring from binding, thus making a more consistent cycling of the bolt.

 

[baboon]

A friend of mine has a LaFrance M14K. If I had it I slap it into a Sage International M14ALCS stock.

 

[HD-Ghost]

LaFrance conversions were pretty cool.

 

[baboon]

LaFrance conversions were pretty cool.

I met Tim LaFrance some years back at a machine gun shoot. He is an interesting guy.

 

[mp_tx]

I like them too. Looking at a 1977 vintage M1A that appears to have been match conditioned. TRW bolt, SAK barrel, NM sights, match conditioned flash hider, cleaning kit hole in stock filled with gray epoxy, and it’s bedded. Think I can grab it for under $1k.

 

[HD-Ghost]

mp_tx............That would be a great deal if the barrel gauges good.


3. Third mod for easy accurizing your M1a/M14 rifle is the gas system. The least expensive method to tighten up the gas cylinder, is to shim it tight against the barrel (reducing movement of the barrel band). If you are lucky enough to have a dozen or so gas cylinder locks, you can try each one (threading them on both ways) getting a tight fit on the face of the cylinder. If you don't have that luxury, buying a shim kit (Fulton Armory $18) will produce the desired results. At this same time, make sure that the gas piston is striking the tip of the op-rod dead center.

A more expensive route is to install a unitized gas system. This is usually done for match-grade accurizing. Unitizing means you are permanently attaching the barrel band to the gas cylinder. This allows for the free-floating of the barrel off the stock. The Army does this with the "screwed and glued" method (most expensive), whereas the Marines and Air Force weld the two pieces together (using slightly different styles). A unitized gas system can be purchased from a number of different sources.

 

[Big Green]

2. Easy, and inexpensive, is to change out the op-rod spring guide with a NM round one. Originally, we (AMU personnel) made these by attaching (pinning, welding, etc.) a round rod to the head of a USGI guide. Now, companies like Sadlak, Fulton,, etc make commercial ones. The purpose of the NM guide is to keep the recoil spring from binding, thus making a more consistent cycling of the bolt.

I bought my SOCOM 16 in 2009, knowing that was a good thing to upgrade and I did so. I switched mine out at about 200 rounds for a Sadlak part, the SA one was already bent.

 

[Tnhawk]

Other than replacing the synthetic stock I haven’t done anything to my M1A. It’s more accurate than me, as my age progresses. I still smile every time I fire a round though this fine weapon.

 

[HD-Ghost]

4. Since the assault weapons/mag ban of 1994, Springfield Inc has been neutering their flash hiders. The ban sunsetted in '04, but SAI still sells their rifles with no bayonet lug. Yes, I know, bayoneting have skyrocketed since then and SAI is doing their part.
Anyway, many people like to change out their neuter FH for a USGI. One of the NM mods we used to do was to bore out the diameter of the FH. Since we shot in all weather conditions, we found the water accumulates in the fins of the hider. This can negatively affect the bullet as it leaves the muzzle, so opening up the bore helps keep the water off the exiting bullet. So if you buy a replacement lugged FH, go ahead and have it drilled out.

PS. Working and playing with the M14/M1a rifle over 50 years, I've never had or heard of anyone having issues with FHs working loose.

 

[Khanhn02]

I’ve been wanting one, yours look nice