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Building an AR from scratch

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  • eddie2501

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    Thanks yall been very helpful going to be a regular here on this forum and post as mush as i can when I can. And Ill keep up to date how my AR is coming along.
     

    codygjohnson

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    I used to be able to build them for under $500 with a little bit of shopping around. With things coming back down, that's not too farfetched these days. I bought (another...) complete DPMS lower w/A2 buttstock and grip last week for under $200 brand new. I'd bet I could put together a bolt assembly and upper for $300.
     

    chubbyzook

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    You can build a low end AR for under $600. $800 for a nicer one.
    not really i put my last lower together with parts i wanted spikes.magpul.dpms for under 300 bucks
    then there is bcg for 100 buck upper reciver for a 100 handguards can be found sub 100 dollars and then barrels
    you can build top of the line for 800 bucks if you really wanted to
    with prices going back down soon you will be seeing more stripped lowers going for 50-60 like they used to be
     

    Big country

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    Huhummm. I can hear my wife geting mad from here! LOL! I might look into doing that. What all is required to put the barrel in and all that does it all have to maped out like a bolt gun or does it just bolt up and go?
     

    codygjohnson

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    Huhummm. I can hear my wife geting mad from here! LOL! I might look into doing that. What all is required to put the barrel in and all that does it all have to maped out like a bolt gun or does it just bolt up and go?

    If you have a quality barrel and bolt, they should be fine. I've built many many many ARs and have only had one that didn't headspace correctly. It was due to a VERY shot out used barrel that looked like it had been brought up from the bottom of a lake under the borescope… You will need a couple of tools to assemble the barrel to the upper. Vise, torque wrench, barrel nut wrench, and a vise block of some kind (I use a polymer vise block from Brownells that houses the upper and lets you clamp it into a vise).
     

    codygjohnson

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    It would be easyer, and probably cost about the same. The problem would be, if you wanted say a Wylde chamber or Noveskie barrel but a cheap upper reciever. They aren't going to pair those up with a cheap reciever. I never find a barreled upper with the exact stuff I want on it. Not saying that I haven't bought a few, but when I used to do that, I really didn't know exactly what I wanted.
     

    Big country

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    Hey that works for me I have no idea what I want! LOL! No I might try and put one together for a range/HD/yote/ well a whatever rifle. LOL! But Would I go to a gun shop to look for a barrel upper?
     

    codygjohnson

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    Model 1 Sales seems to have the cheapest prices on uppers. Don't know much about them, but I haven't heard any complaints except slow ship times. They are always at the Dallas area gunshows. I'm sure they make it to the other Texas gunshows as well
     

    Big country

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    Does the model effect the price? I kinda wanted to build one that looked like the original M 16 But I want the carry handle to be removable for the addition of a scope.
     

    codygjohnson

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    Most of the time, the A3 flattop uppers are the same price. Sometimes, they will charge more for an A2 or A1 style upper over an A3. You could get an M16A4 style complete upper for a pretty low price, I'd imagine. That would be all you need. If you get the upper, I'll sell you a brand new military issue A4 carry handle for less than you can buy it anywhere. I've got a couple laying around that need a home.
     

    codygjohnson

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    the AR 15 series of rifles breakdown into 2 major assemblies.

    The lower assembly has the receiver, buttstock, pistol grip, and internals (trigger, hammer, sear, buffer, etc.) A complete lower would have all of these. Stripped lowers are only the receiver, no internals or furniture. Someone here is selling a Stag Arms complete lower. It has a lower receiver w/internals, buffer tube, buffer spring, buffer, buttstock and pistol grip. I buy lowers every time I see a good deal on them (I’ve got 3 laying around waiting on a build…)

    The upper assembly has the upper receiver, barrel, handguards and misc, (sights, dust cover, delta ring, etc.) A bolt/carrier group is also included in the upper receiver assembly sometimes, but not always. Uppers can be sold by anyone, to anyone, as they aren’t the registered part of the firearm.

    Technically, you can have one lower and several uppers to be able to configure the rifle do whatever you want. I break my lowers into two groups, tactical and precision. If I want to build a short handy carbine, I’ll do a tactical lower, collapsible stock, mil-spec trigger and any goofy extended this and that’s that I can talk myself into. If I want to build a tackdriver, I’ll do a precision lower, fixed A2 or adjustable stock, competition trigger and any oversized doodads that E think will make me more accurate.
     

    Big country

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    I see. I 'd like to have a tactical carbine but I doubt it would be really accurate out to 200 I'd think. And I mean 10 shots to the vital area on a man size target and 10 hits. I also don't have any real experience with these rifles either, so.... yeah thanks! I really appreciate the info, I might start looking into this a little more in detail.
     

    codygjohnson

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    I see. I 'd like to have a tactical carbine but I doubt it would be really accurate out to 200 I'd think. And I mean 10 shots to the vital area on a man size target and 10 hits. I also don't have any real experience with these rifles either, so.... yeah thanks! I really appreciate the info, I might start looking into this a little more in detail.

    You might be surprised at the accuracy of an AR. I’ve yet to put one together from new components that couldn’t shoot under 2 MOA. My “go to gun” is a 14.5” chrome lined barreled carbine that will shoot under 1 MOA. It’ll shoot Lake City M193 all day long at around 1.5 MOA.
     
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