break work on the power ram

[country_boy]

I made a new brake line for the driver's side rear drum brake and while bleeding it starts leaking! I know I didnt cross thread it. It leaks from where the line goes into the coupler, then threads into the wheel cylinder. I replaced both wheel cylinders all the brake hardware shoes etc. Should I just make a new line and try it again?? Also, since Im a one man army, do those one man brake bleeding systems work?
Finally, the brake and anti lock brake lights are on when I bought the truck but, they worked ok not great. As far as I know it was a common problem and it was actually a recall notice. Im thinking that there should be a black wire running to the proportion valve and some how connects to the message center and possibly the abs computer. Otherwise what would trigger both those lights to come on?

 

[fuelfather]

on the ABS light: have you checked the leads, sensors, and or wire couplers for voltage/amperage. also check by hand to ensure that the parking brake is fully released, had that one scratching my head for a while with the brake light.

 

[country_boy]

well there is a sensor in the rear diff. Ive heard those go out more times than necessary. Ill have to check that.

 

[M. Sage]

I made a new brake line for the driver's side rear drum brake and while bleeding it starts leaking! I know I didnt cross thread it. It leaks from where the line goes into the coupler, then threads into the wheel cylinder. I replaced both wheel cylinders all the brake hardware shoes etc. Should I just make a new line and try it again?? Also, since Im a one man army, do those one man brake bleeding systems work?

Did you get a pre-flared line or did you flare it yourself? It could be a faulty flare. Also, check inside the cylinder for a cone-shaped "bump" around the hole in the center. Some of the older brake hydraulics made of cast iron have to have a brass cone pushed into that hole to engage the flare. One last thing to check is that the flare nut has enough thread for the flare to engage that cone. You can find out by taking the line loose except that connection, then simply pushing back and forth or trying to turn it. If the line moves, the flare is not engaging the cone and it'll never seal.

Finally, the brake and anti lock brake lights are on when I bought the truck but, they worked ok not great. As far as I know it was a common problem and it was actually a recall notice. Im thinking that there should be a black wire running to the proportion valve and some how connects to the message center and possibly the abs computer. Otherwise what would trigger both those lights to come on?

Usually, when both lights are on, it's a low fluid problem, or a proportioning valve switch is tripped. What year is the truck? If it's older, the odds are good that you'll be able to output the codes from the system manually and get pointed in a direction. First, though, I'd make sure the physical and hydraulic systems work properly and are properly bled.

 

[country_boy]

That might be the problem is its not seating. The flare was made after the it was cut and bent to length. How do I get it to seat?

How do I reset the prop. valve?

 

[drj3828]

You have to make a double flare on steel brake lines! It take's a special flaring tool. Also make sure the two sealing surfaces are clean. On the bleeding use a large hand operated oil can filled with clean brake fluid, put a piece of vacume hose on the outlet end and the other end of the hose on the bleeder. Loosen the bleeder and pump the brake fluid in. Make sure the master cylinder cap is off, this is called reverse bleeding and it works. On the anti lock light did you have the front rotors off? If so make sure the sensor is push all the way in. Then pull the ABS fuse and wait 30 seconds and drive the vehicle it should reset the ABS BCM.

Hope this helps.

dj

 

[M. Sage]

Yep. You have to have a double flare, or it's all for nothing.

How to make a 45 degree double flare

This is a good write-up. You're going to wind up with part of the tube nearly inside out.

 

[country_boy]

yes its a double flared. My uncles shop did it for me. No i havent messed with the front rotors but, this 89'. The abs is in the back only. Theres a rawr sensor in the diff. and theres a abs valve on the drivers side rear frame.

 

[Gpz1100]

the hand operated vac pump, "mitey vac??" work fine. just don't let the master cyl run dry

 

[M. Sage]

If it won't seat and it's flared right, check for the cone it mates to inside the cylinder - I've seen them missing before. Also make sure that the nut is long enough to reach the bottom and seat the flare. I've run into the problem of deep threads and a shallow nut before, too.