Trying to find an OEM oil cooler for a 2016 Ram 1500. It's on backorder through NAPA and even the dealership said it's backordered and they have a handful of vehicles needing them replaced. Anybody have a reputable source that's not Amazon?
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3.6 Liter Oil Cooler
- Thread starter Kayt00
- Start date
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lonestardiver
TGT Addict
Have you checked with any of the good reputable local radiator shops?
Maybe a junkyard?
Unfortunately it's a common issue and seems to be a case of "it's going to leak at some point". That being said going used probably isn't going to be a good plan.
It's not the standard radiator style oil cooler and uses the engines coolant for cooling so don't think a radiator shop is the way to go.
Setrab is a quality brand oil cooler that is used in aircraft and race car applications.
Look ar Pegasus Auto, Summit, Jegs ... a couple hundred bucks.
Earls has any adaptor you can want if the oil lines are not standard.
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
Look ar Pegasus Auto, Summit, Jegs ... a couple hundred bucks.
Earls has any adaptor you can want if the oil lines are not standard.
Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
Axxe55
Retiretgtshit stirrer
Did you try Rock Auto, or Ebay? I have had good luck in the past with both for vehicle parts. And sometimes the prices will beat dealership or auto parts store prices, even on factory parts.
Years ago, I needed head bolts for my Isuzu Trooper. They are a torque to yield bolt, meaning they should be only used once and replaced. Dealership wanted over $200 for the head bolt kit. Bought a kit off Ebay, and they were factory head bolts for about $50.
Years ago, I needed head bolts for my Isuzu Trooper. They are a torque to yield bolt, meaning they should be only used once and replaced. Dealership wanted over $200 for the head bolt kit. Bought a kit off Ebay, and they were factory head bolts for about $50.
I think the worst part about it is that I have the skills to build and design a conversion kit to just get rid of that crap design and go with a real oil cooler and remote filter, but what I lack is the equipment. The motor itself is pretty solid and used in everything from the Chargers to 1/2 ton trucks including Jeeps and Caravans, i'm not the only one with the issue from what I've been able to tell so I feel like a conversion would sell well if done and priced right.
Have you tried Mopar parts or factory Mopar direct? Google the specific part number and you'll sometimes find an online stealership with a decent price. The 3.6 was used on many models so Ram or Jeep (JK model) forums may have discussions on the best place to find one.
Just a little update to anyone listening, called Napa stores here locally, in Oklahoma, Kansas, and Colorado as well as dealerships. The story is that production is backordered somewhere around 38000 units until AT LEAST the middle of March. The cause, take a wild guess, go ahead I'll wait...
..."supply chain issues."
I'm so tired of hearing that load of bullshit.
Anyway, did the only thing I could think of to do and filed a complaint with the NHTSA. It looked like I wasn't the first person. So now once it's fixed I'll be considering trading this thing in on a Dodge without the 3.6 liter.
..."supply chain issues."
I'm so tired of hearing that load of bullshit.
Anyway, did the only thing I could think of to do and filed a complaint with the NHTSA. It looked like I wasn't the first person. So now once it's fixed I'll be considering trading this thing in on a Dodge without the 3.6 liter.
I think you're stuck waiting. It is definitely the Achilles heel of that engine. The plastic housing crumbles like a cookie where the coolant ports meet the top of the engine. Even if you find an o ring set to seal it you'll just discover that the plastic around them is already gone.
Eventually you will want to stop driving it to save yourself the cost of a head gasket. In the meantime, just keep adding coolant as needed if you must drive it. At least it's about the highest point in the engine but once it gets to temp and pressurizes it will leak all the same.
Eventually you will want to stop driving it to save yourself the cost of a head gasket. In the meantime, just keep adding coolant as needed if you must drive it. At least it's about the highest point in the engine but once it gets to temp and pressurizes it will leak all the same.
BeatTheTunaUp
Fux with the best, Die like the rest
I would disagree. I wouldn't touch a dodge from the 2000's. Shitty broken dashes, head warping 4.7, lack luster transmission. But I own a 15 Ram Sport. Post Fiat, Leather wrapped dash, at least in my trim, huge brakes across all models, better quality infotainment centers than most cars, etc. I hate to say FIAT of all people helped, but they did. I fix cars everyday for a living, and all the Rams ever need are brakes and exhaust manifold bolts. GM's leak more oil than volkswagens, and I see a lot of poor interior materials failing. Ford's are another animal.
I think specifically of the Dodge dart and it's famous clutch failure. We had one with brand new slave that failed when bleeding. Just blew out. The dealer said it happens to them just about every other install and they have no real fix. It's 100% Fiat built trans. Of course the slave is internal so that's always fun.
Also the first 500 I worked on had multiple engine/trans mount failures. Oe replacements we're almost double in size. Tells me they were built wrong from the start. It was also low mileage.
Not sure where the engineering snafu of the coolers started but every 3.6 motor with any mileage has had them replaced multiple times or at least once every 60-80k.
My personal 2003 Dakota is about to pass 285k on original trans and engine. Never replaced anything but ps pump, water pump and alternator but not til after 200k. Starter, mounts, distributor and all ac stuff still original.
I guess we all have our own first hand experiences with cars. All the other guys but myself and the shop foreman are Toyota fan boys. We are the Dodge truck owners. It's funny you mention the dash thing. Mine finally bowed up and cracked to pieces during this last freeze. Turned on the defrost after warming up and it broke spoke by spoke until a piece fell into the duct.
Also the first 500 I worked on had multiple engine/trans mount failures. Oe replacements we're almost double in size. Tells me they were built wrong from the start. It was also low mileage.
Not sure where the engineering snafu of the coolers started but every 3.6 motor with any mileage has had them replaced multiple times or at least once every 60-80k.
My personal 2003 Dakota is about to pass 285k on original trans and engine. Never replaced anything but ps pump, water pump and alternator but not til after 200k. Starter, mounts, distributor and all ac stuff still original.
I guess we all have our own first hand experiences with cars. All the other guys but myself and the shop foreman are Toyota fan boys. We are the Dodge truck owners. It's funny you mention the dash thing. Mine finally bowed up and cracked to pieces during this last freeze. Turned on the defrost after warming up and it broke spoke by spoke until a piece fell into the duct.
