JuanGrande,
NOTE: I'm going to have a .30-06 model 760 remodeled by Jessie at JES to .400 Brown-Whelen Improved, which uses the same size/weight bullets as the old .405WCF.
ADDENDA: The .400 B-WI is the HARDEST hitting cartridge that can be made from a .30-06 case. = With the 400 grain SOLID at 2100-2300FPS it's "enough gun" for anything short of a T-Rex, in the hands of "a decent shot".
(Adequate "power" & DEEPER PENETRATION, when compared to the .458 WIN, are the main real "positives" of the .400 B-WI.)
yours, satx
Jeez that sounds like one helluva job rifle. I’ve never heard of that caliber and thought I was pretty familiar with most wildcat calibers.
Good luck on your hunt. If you have any loaded rounds, post up a pic.
JuanGrande,
FYI, the book, BIG BORE RIFLES & CARTRIDGES (published by Wolfe Publishing Company, 1991) has an entire chapter on the .400 B-WI. = The cartridge is "the ballistic twin" of the "well-regarded in Africa" .404 Jeffery
The .400 B-WI is essentially the "big brother" of the .35 Whelen.
(Cases are simple to make by fire-forming .30-06 or .35 Whelen brass in a rifle in that caliber.)
yours, satx
Bullet mass/type | Velocity | Energy |
---|---|---|
400 gr (26 g) Norma Solid | 2,325 ft/s (709 m/s) | 4,802 ft⋅lbf (6,511 J) |
450 gr (29 g) Woodleigh FMJ | 2,150 ft/s (660 m/s) | 4,620 ft⋅lbf (6,260 J) |
450 gr (29 g) Woodleigh soft nose | 2,150 ft/s (660 m/s) | 4,620 ft⋅lbf (6,260 J) |
Bullet mass/type | Velocity | Energy |
---|---|---|
300 gr (19 g) SP | 2,300 ft/s (700 m/s) | 3,522 ft⋅lbf (4,775 J) |
350 gr (23 g) | 2,100 ft/s (640 m/s) | 3,430 ft⋅lbf (4,650 J) |
I’m new to reloading rifle rounds, and I had a question about crimping.I wanna make sure I’m doing everything right. Bullets I’m using are Hornady 150 grain SP and they do have a canellure.
What rifle are you testing these loads with btw? Idk if you said it alreadyFINALLY got to the range to test my loads. I came away with a couple things:
1) I definitely need some sort of rest to shoot off. The range I went to had some little bean bags and wood blocks to help, but there’s no real way to tell if it’s the load or the shooter when you’re trying to rest your rifle on a wood block and bean bag. I pretty much knew that but I was hoping the range might have something better I could use. And.......
2) I need a chronograph. Another thing I knew, but thought it was more of a luxury than a necessity. I now know I was wrong.
But overall I am really happy with the loads. I had 4 different loadings, and I shot a 4 round group of each at 100 yards. Im confident that I know what direction I need to go, and I’m gonna be able to really fine tune one. The first pic is of a group I shot with what was just about in the middle of the load data from the Hornady book (I pulled one and knew as soon as I pulled the trigger!). The second pic is of a 4 shot group that was a little hotter. The groupings definitely started to open up as the loads got hotter, which is kind of expected. I’m gonna get a decent rifle rest and a chrono, and try to fine tune a load now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One thing I always do with my hunting rifles is take a good look at whether the stock trigger is worth a damn. Not sure about the 721 using the same trigger as the 700, but if so get a new trigger on there. I use a Jewell trigger on my rem model 7 and it is the nicest rifle trigger I have ever owned.I definitely need more trigger time. I had personally only put about 20 rounds through the rifle before today. It’s a 70 year old Remington 721 that I bought to hunt with late last year. I put a Leupold 3-9 scope on it, and got it zero’d at 100. It’s the first rifle I’ve owned that I’ve attempted to shoot at any distance over 25-50 yards. Today I was shooting with a wood block and a bean bag under the fore grip, and I was holding the stock. I am gonna buy some type of shooting rest or vice to tighten things up. Im definitely not a great shot, but I have shot my friends Ruger Precision 6.5 Creedmoor at 1,000 yards and rang steel, so I’m not terrible. It’s a hunting rifle, so while sub MOA groups would be amazing, if I can shoot 2 MOA groups just resting the front of my rifle on the window ledge in my blind, I’ll put meat in the freezer.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One thing I always do with my hunting rifles is take a good look at whether the stock trigger is worth a damn. Not sure about the 721 using the same trigger as the 700, but if so get a new trigger on there. I use a Jewell trigger on my rem model 7 and it is the nicest rifle trigger I have ever owned.
The right handloads should get you awesome accuracy, a nice trigger will get you consistently awesome accuracy
Did you call Timney? They should know for sureI had looked at the Timney Elite Hunter trigger right after I got it, but I got conflicting info on whether or not it would fit, and I never followed through.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did you call Timney? They should know for sure
Also check these guys out. They are suppose to be really nice and looks like they are compatible with the 721
Remington Aftermarket / Replacement Rifle Triggers (Model 700, 7, 721)
RIFLE BASIX is a Leading U.S. Manufacturer of aftermarket Remington rifle triggers for the Model 700, Model 7, 721, XR-100 and 40x. CNC Machined, High Quality.riflebasix.com
Nice hope it works out. Timneys are great. I wanted to get them for my Rugers but ended up getting some MCARBO springs to try out first. $12 beats $175There is a “contact a technician” form on their website, so I emailed last night.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have multiple triggers from them and have always been happy with their performance.I looked at the rifle basix triggers last night also.