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  • Younggun

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    Most of the crimped pistol brass I've come across has been Winchester. The ones with a small cross in a circle stamped on the bottom IIRC.

    I just toss them now, but the ones I did fix I just used the case mouth dechamfer tool to remove the crimp. Makes them prime pretty easily with the auto prime also. Slight misalignments become a none issue. Works for the BMG cases as well where almost all are crimped.
    Hurley's Gold
     

    robertc1024

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    Discretion took the better part of valor, and I left it tonight after being only slightly frustrated. I'm pretty sure they are crimped because I got a few large primers to go in. I'll bust out the calipers tomorrow on their asses. Dang! I had no idea that the same sized pistol round would need two different sized primers. What a PITA.
     

    Dawico

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    Discretion took the better part of valor, and I left it tonight after being only slightly frustrated. I'm pretty sure they are crimped because I got a few large primers to go in. I'll bust out the calipers tomorrow on their asses. Dang! I had no idea that the same sized pistol round would need two different sized primers. What a PITA.
    Usually you can tell by looking at them. You will see a circle around the primer pocket, three or four little indentions, or some other tell tale sign that it has been crimped.
     

    Andy

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    Discretion took the better part of valor, and I left it tonight after being only slightly frustrated. I'm pretty sure they are crimped because I got a few large primers to go in. I'll bust out the calipers tomorrow on their asses. Dang! I had no idea that the same sized pistol round would need two different sized primers. What a PITA.
    Can't say I've seen crimped Boxer primers - I'm also wondering whether you might have the newer SP-primered brass.

    The actual reason there are small primer (SP) cases in .45acp is the requirement in some places for Non-Toxic (NT) primers which don't contain any lead in the primer compound, unlike our normal lead styphnate primers. This compound is called DDNP - diazodinitrophenol.

    So why do NT primers have to be in a SP format instead of the regular LP? I'm glad you asked.

    When they tried the new NT priming compound in a LP primer, the brisance (shattering effect of an explosive) was significant and considered unsafe; they put it into a SP package so that there's less DDNP and voila! Shitty small-primered .45 brass :)

    PS - be careful of crunching a primer trying to get it in - they'll make your ears ring ;)
     
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    Moonpie

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    Gunz are icky.
    Military brass has the primer crimps. The circle with a cross in it means NATO compatible.
    There are inexpensive hand tools available to cut off the crimp.
     

    robertc1024

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    Yep - that's it. SP brass. I separated it all out and just went with the 60 or so large primer ones. Ok - next question. I'm loading some plain jane 230 grain jacked ball Hornady bullets in the .45's.

    Hornady manual says OAL 1.210, Speer says 1.260 - I measured some .45's from three different manufacturers and they are all around 1.250. Which is it? 40 thousandths is a LOT.
     
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    Moonpie

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    Gunz are icky.
    Yep - that's it. SP brass. I separated it all out and just went with the 60 or so large primer ones. Ok - next question. I'm loading some plain jane 230 grain jacked ball Hornady bullets in the .45's.

    Hornady manual says OAL 1.121, Speer says 1.160 - I measured some .45's from three different manufacturers and they are all around 1.150. Which is it? 40 thousandths is a LOT.

    I'd set them at the same as the factory rounds you have. The factory rounds are going to be made to work in most all guns.
    Only load about ten rounds. Hand cycle them thru your piece. If they feed okay go from there.
     

    ROGER4314

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    I use the RCBS motorized brass conditioner to clean and/or chamfer the primer pockets. Military brass is often crimped at the primer pockets so I cut that crimp out with a chamfer tool. For YEARS, I tied my variable speed electric drill down and used the chamfer tool in it. Now, the RCBS tool works much better for me.

    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/56...ase-prep-center-110-volt?cm_vc=ProductFinding

    I bought the Dillon "Super Sweging" tool and have the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool as well but I never use either of them. The RCBS prep tool works for me!

    http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

    There are tons of tools and equipment to make reloading easier. I identified steps & operations that were less enjoyable and bought whatever equipment would make those processes more fun. You don't NEED those things but it helps improve the hobby.

    It sounds like you got snagged on some small primer .45 brass. I sort my brass and keep the small primers to the side. Long ago, I tossed all small primer .45 brass, but keep them now....just in case.

    Flash
     
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    robertc1024

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    Yep. I had plenty of small pistol primers, so I just primed and loaded those puppies up. I have now loaded ~300 pistol rounds. Last batch was the best. Things I have learned:
    1. Loading non-plated bullets isn't the easiest way to start. The flare on the shell when loading plated bullets can be darn near non-existent. Stuffing a wadcutter completely within the case isn't so forgiving.
    2. OAL is all over the freaking map. I measured a bunch of factory rounds and made my best guess with the same bullets.
    3. Once you've got the dies set up for your press, and the lockrings are tight, damn they are accurate. I loaded some 9mm last night, and some more today - after sizing, flaring etc. and putting the bullet setting die back in, crimps were spot on and OAL was within 0.005".

    This stuff is fun!
     

    Younggun

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    Just wait till you do something for 6 months and then realize there was a better way right in front of you the whole time.

    D'OH!
     

    Dave68

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    The three most dreaded words that can cause an episode are "Out Of Stock". Apologies if I have traumatized anyone reading this post.
     
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