first ar build questions

[country_boy]

Ive been looking at the 16 mid length rifle parts kit on del-ton that sells for 465(base price) for about 2 years now.
From what I understand the upper is head spaced, tested fired etc. and you also have a lower parts kit.

What I wanna do is actually build the upper and the rifle how I want it and not end up with pre assembled parts laying around wasting money. Im very mechanical,have the tools to build one and like to build/construct.
I cant afford 500-600 at this time, but I can afford a $83 a3 upper stripped one week, a dpms lower kit another week and keep on buying when I can afford it.

Or would yall save up and buy the kit? Which in my budget might not happen for another year.

 

[San Antone RR]

I have different parts of projects throughout my house and garage. Hell, I have 3 motorcycles in various stages of repair/rebuild now.
Buy what you can when you can and keep track of your build progress in a notebook somewhere so you don't inadvertently double yourself with a purchase. (Been there, done that.)
Happy building.

 

[Acera]

I would suggest the first thing is the lower. You can get those for around $100. Then add to that until you can afford a reassembled upper exactly like you want it.

 

[chubbyzook]

jse still comes to mind, they let you choose any extras you want and subtract parts you dont need. take out the bolt and charging handle and you are down to 265 for the upper, a few weeks later get a bolt and charging handle (110-200 dollars) then pick up a lower and lpk from palmetto state armory or pick up a plum crazy lower for 120-150 complete. ive have used jse three times for three different builds. my pistol came out to 450 complete my rifle came out to 650 complete and gfs rifle iis right at 500 complete.

 

[country_boy]

Actually I have a RRA stripped 109(saxet)
magpul miad grip
magpul moe midlength handguards
dpms lower kit

a3 flat top with m4 feed ramps stripped is next

 

[Texastransplant]

That del-ton shoots just fine. I have had three Colt's and there is really no difference. In fact this build was tighter in the upper and lower fit. I am old school and I don't go for chrome lined. That was initially done back when I was in the Army as without it it caused ejection, seized case problems. The reason was fullly auto and unless you are going to do that I think there is a slightly better accruracy without the chromed lined. Others might disagree but that's the way feel on it.

 

[country_boy]

Ok folks next step is buffer tube, buffer, spring etc. I want mil spec being this a midlength build do I need a rifle length or carbine length?

 

[chubbyzook]

carbine length allows more stock options and should function just fine

 

[country_boy]

Looking at free floating my rifle with a two piece rail system. Any brands that I can afford? Yhm? Midwest ind.??
Also I wanted the upper to have m4 feed ramps. I would need both the upper and barrel to have the feed ramps correct?

 

[Angered_Kabar]

Looking at free floating my rifle with a two piece rail system. Any brands that I can afford? Yhm? Midwest ind.??
Also I wanted the upper to have m4 feed ramps. I would need both the upper and barrel to have the feed ramps correct?

I don't think you're going to have any trouble finding barrels and receivers with m4 feed ramps. In fact it's almost impossible to find barrels and receivers without them now.

That's should answer your questions about how it should be configured.

 

[ChunkyMonkey]

I did similar for my father in law's. I had a double star lower already. I purchased the CMMG built piston upper with bull barrel, YHM collapsable stock with battery picatinny rail, MIAD Magpul grip, enhanced trigger guard, CMMG lower parts kit with 2 stage trigger, and YHM QDS hooded flip up sights. Piece by piece is nice unless you have the $$$ up front. Buy it all now, or pieces later, it'll work either way.