Advice on using cast bullets

[Cliffh]

Back when I had a couple of dollars, and after researching just the equipment, I bought enough equipment & supplies to start reloading a variety of calibers. Part of the supplies are 1000 cast bullets, to be used in a PT140.

The bullets are from the Missouri Bullet Company; 500 are marked IDP #2, .401 dia, 170gr SWC, the others are marked IDP #5, .401 dia, 180gr TCFP; both are Brinell 18.

After doing a bit more research, it seems there may be additional considerations when using cast bullets. I'd appreciate any input on what problems one might encounter trying to use these bullets.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

Just load them in the middle of the load data ranges. We just shot a bunch of 45 ACP and .38 SPL a friend of mine just bought. They work pretty good. Just test out a handful of each load you work up, check for any leading and pick the load you like best. Make sure you clean the gun after each session.

I just started to cast my own bullets. Really easy, cheap and just as good as any other cast bullet. I figure it cost about $2.00 a box of 50 rounds to shoot 45 ACP. That aint bad, considering that a box of Winchester White Box goes for about $23.00 (approx) a box.

I have more time then money right now, so I don't mind spending the time and effort to roll my own.

 

[Charley]

90% of my shooting is with cast bullets, and in handguns about 99%. Be sure your dies flair the casemouth enough to prevent shaving lead when loading, nothing much else to say if you are loading commercial cast. Do remember, though, that commercial cast bullets are designed to ship and sell more than shoot. Lubes are harder, some work well, some don't. You also don't want to get sucked into the "hard cast" BS. Hardness for the sake of hardness is marketing hype, bullet fit to the bore and adequate lube is far more importamt in terms of accuracy and reducing or eleminating leading.

 

[Texas1911]

I would stick to heavier grain weights and drive them slow.

Personally it's not worth the savings in my opinion, to be surrounded in a cloud of lead dust.

 

[Cliffh]

What's the best for removing lead from the barrel?

Personally it's not worth the savings in my opinion, to be surrounded in a cloud of lead dust.

Are you speaking of lead from pouring your own, or from shooting cast?

 

[randmplumbingllc]

I would stick to heavier grain weights and drive them slow.

Personally it's not worth the savings in my opinion, to be surrounded in a cloud of lead dust.

I think of it this way, if I can control one more component in the shooting equasion, the better off I am. I can make my own gun powder(if needed), can make projectiles, have loads of brass, so, other then primers, I can be self sufficent. Now, if someone comes up with a home primer making system...!

Like I said, I have more time then money. We also shoot quite alot. A thousand 45 ACP factory rounds go for approx. $400.00, I can cast and load the same thousand for about $40.00. My math says, if you have the time, reloading/casting is the way to go

After I get good at this casting business, swaging is the next step. Then, you can shoot homemade FMJ hollowpoints for 3 to 4 cents a round. As cheap as shooting a .22. Can't hardly argue with that !

 

[Texas1911]

I think of it this way, if I can control one more component in the shooting equasion, the better off I am. I can make my own gun powder(if needed), can make projectiles, have loads of brass, so, other then primers, I can be self sufficent. Now, if someone comes up with a home primer making system...!

Like I said, I have more time then money. We also shoot quite alot. A thousand 45 ACP factory rounds go for approx. $400.00, I can cast and load the same thousand for about $40.00. My math says, if you have the time, reloading/casting is the way to go

After I get good at this casting business, swaging is the next step. Then, you can shoot homemade FMJ hollowpoints for 3 to 4 cents a round. As cheap as shooting a .22. Can't hardly argue with that !

You loading your own doesn't affect me, so I'm quite content that it is working out well for you. I suck down enough lead at my job, so I don't care to smelt and cast my own, nor do I care to shoot my own. I'd rather pay the little bit extra for jacketed / plated. Just my personal choice.

 

[Texas1911]

What's the best for removing lead from the barrel?

Hoppe's #9 works well on lead / powder fouling.

 

[Charley]

What's the best for removing lead from the barrel?

Ed's Red or Kroil work well. Ed's Red is much cheaper than Hoppes or any other bore cleaner, you mix it yourself. Look here for the formula...Ed's Red Bore Cleaner by C.E. Harris. How to feature article - Home mix that really works.

 

[Cliffh]

The Army manual TM 31-210 descibes a way to reuse a primer. Instructions on how to remove, reload primer material (using match tips) and reinstalling in case. I know I've run across an article in another manual describing how to manufacuter your own primer material and shows how to build a bench for putting the material into the used primer - but can't seem to find the aritcle right now. The second article was much better, the bench it shows building includes a blast shield for operator protection.

I've saved a copy of Ed's instructions. Might have to mix up a batch soon.

 

[jcrntx]

What's the best for removing lead from the barrel?


One recipe I just used with fantastic results was 50% Hydrogen Peroxide 50% White Vinegar. Tossed an old 45 barrel in it for about 15 minutes and the barrel was clean as new after running a patch through it. NOTE**** Have heard this will also remove bluing so be careful when using!!

 

[randmplumbingllc]

You loading your own doesn't affect me, so I'm quite content that it is working out well for you. I suck down enough lead at my job, so I don't care to smelt and cast my own, nor do I care to shoot my own. I'd rather pay the little bit extra for jacketed / plated. Just my personal choice.

I can't guarantee it, but I venture to say that you will probably change your mind later. It took me over 5 years after I started to reload to start casting. A friend got me hooked on it. He swages .223 FMJ bullets from used .22 rifle cases. That is where I want to end up. FMJ hollowpoints for pennies ! You can make .45 ACP JHP rounds from .40 cal. brass and .40 cal. JHP rounds from .9mm brass.

For as much brass as you have access to, this would be right up your alley.

Check some of the swaged bullets out on this site www.castboolits.gunloads.com Seeing some of the cool stuff those guy's make sure changed my mind.

 

[randmplumbingllc]

The Army manual TM 31-210 descibes a way to reuse a primer. Instructions on how to remove, reload primer material (using match tips) and reinstalling in case. I know I've run across an article in another manual describing how to manufacuter your own primer material and shows how to build a bench for putting the material into the used primer - but can't seem to find the aritcle right now. The second article was much better, the bench it shows building includes a blast shield for operator protection.

I've saved a copy of Ed's instructions. Might have to mix up a batch soon.

I know I have seen it on youtube. I am hoping someone comes up with a better way that can be mass produced.

 

[AusTex]

I used lead and it was fine if I pushed it slow but did spend a lot of time working the lead out of barrels. I have since moved on the plated bullets that can also foul but I have not had it happen yet and the cost is lower than jacketed and a little more than lead. I moved to plated because of my pistol suppressors and not wanting to have to clean lead out of them.

Boxes of berrys at cabelas are about as cheap as they come unless you are willing to order a big shipment from Berrys during one of their anything over x amount of $ gets free shipping promotions. Between my buddy and I that shoot sub 9 147's we have gone through 10 boxes id say. thats about 2500 rounds and no fouling and no problems. They say the same thing though keep the bullets just at super sonic speeds in 9 or 40 and back off if you have to. The plated copper also explodes on steel really well and we have had zero issue with ricochets.

 

[Cliffh]

Y'all don't think I've got to worry about lubing and/or sizing the bullets? There seems to be something on them; since they're the first cast bullets (besides boxed .22lr) I've seen, not sure what it may be.

 

[Texas1911]

Y'all don't think I've got to worry about lubing and/or sizing the bullets? There seems to be something on them; since they're the first cast bullets (besides boxed .22lr) I've seen, not sure what it may be.

They'll have bullet lube on the banded portion, and they'll also sometimes be coated in a surface coating to help reduce leading.

 

[Charley]

Y'all don't think I've got to worry about lubing and/or sizing the bullets? There seems to be something on them; since they're the first cast bullets (besides boxed .22lr) I've seen, not sure what it may be.

Either lubed with dry moly of some sort (usually dark colored and somewhat slicker than lead alloy), or they have lube in a lube groove near the base. The .40 S&W and 10mm both use .401-.402 cast bullets, in most cases.
With proper fit and lube, 1200 FPS should not lead most handguns, I run most rifle loads to 1800-1900 FPS without appreciable leading. If you are geting enough leading to be a problem, look first at bullet fit, second at adequate lube.

 

[tallyman]

What's the best for removing lead from the barrel?


I shoot hard cast lead in my rifles and I don't have a leading problem.

Back in the 60s commercial 357 mag loads were made with swaged bullets. Swaged bullets are made of soft lead and will foul up your barrel something awful! You could see lumps of lead in the barrel. I would finish up the day with 2 or 3 rounds of jacketed bullets down the barrel. . . Voilla. . .no more lead in the barrel.

If you are having a leading problem find out why. There is a reason bullets are melting going down the barrel!! Hot powders, excessive pressure and velocities, soft bullets, rough barrel.

But if the problem persists, run a few jacketed bullets down the barrel before you go home and the barrel will clean up with normal cleaning.

 

[Cliffh]

I still haven't been able to setup my reloading station and get started, but I am making notes of all the suggestions. Thanks all - and if there's more, keep 'em coming.

 

[wills]

There are two principal causes of leading with cast boolits and they are to an extent interrelated.
1 Boolit too small.
2 Boolit too hard.

Leading is caused when the propellant gas leaks past the base of a too small boolit. In effect it causes flame cutting of the alloy and deposits it on the barrel. If an undersized boolit is not too hard it can obturate ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obturate ) (was not aware of that article until just now) to fill the bore and prevent leading.
The problem with buying cast boolits, is both the boolits and lube are made hard to survive shipping, and therefore may tend to lead.
If you want to buy cast consider slugging your barrel and buying them from a custom caster who will cast and/or size them .002 over groove diameter.