DK Firearms

308 bullet info

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  • msharley

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    Thank you for all the good info. I think i will order the new version for Lyman book.

    One thing I notice on bullet box was the twist rate. This bullet is for a barrow that is 1-12. My remington is 1-8 does that really matter?
    Faster twist rates do well with heavier bullets...

    Slower twists do well with lighter bullets at higher velocities..

    Previous poster brought up flat base vs boat tail..

    Most rifles will shoot a flat base bullet better than they will a boat tail..

    Reason is simple.

    When bullet exits the bore? The flat base is "out".

    The boat tail is subject to any gas that comes by an "imperfect" crown and may start to "yaw".

    Another thing about boat tails...is....the boat tail formed well? Or? Does it have a defect? (a bad lot of bullets can make a good rifle shoot poorly)..

    Realistically? A good bore with a decent crown?

    You will not notice the difference until you get to the 600yd line....

    View this as a "journey"....

    Get a "diary"...keep a record of each shot fired. Weather. Overcast? Clear? Range face North? If not? What time?

    How did you "feel"?

    The better the log you keep? The easier it is to duplicate good loads...and avoid loading ammo you don't like...again! LOL
     

    paknheat

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    48d88625cfc921963a4311d4f4807792.jpg

    874c08f1dfdf67328e11c5dc4ba42a72.jpg

    Here ya go.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     

    MrRobot

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    @paknheat thanks for taking screenshot of the bullet and powder measurements.

    From the list of powder I have a couple bottles for CFE223 that I bought for realding .223.

    Besides using the CFE which powder should I choose . Would you mind giving me 3 powder from Great -> okay.

    if you don't mind me asking..

    thanks again.
     

    paknheat

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    @paknheat thanks for taking screenshot of the bullet and powder measurements.

    From the list of powder I have a couple bottles for CFE223 that I bought for realding .223.

    Besides using the CFE which powder should I choose . Would you mind giving me 3 powder from Great -> okay.

    if you don't mind me asking..

    thanks again.

    For the .308 the powders I’ve had the better luck with was either Varget or IMR 4064.

    My friend who shot .308 in competition used blc.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     

    Lonesome Dove

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    CFE223 was engineered towards the 223 as named. Even though it's listed in one of many books it would be the last powder of choice for a 308.

    I more than understand both calibers can share a component pretty much like millions of other things but when a powder was designed as a specific and labeled as such it's pretty self explanatory.
     
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    TxStetson

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    CFE223 was engineered towards the 223 as named. Even though it's listed in one of many books it would be the last powder of choice for a 308.

    I more than understand both calibers can share a component pretty much like millions of other things but when a powder was designed as a specific and labeled as such it's pretty self explanatory.
    Varget is my favorite powder for 308, and CFE223 is a not so distant 2nd choice. Varget is less temperature sensitive, otherwise it would be a tie.
     

    MrRobot

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    @tx_1 I have plenty of CFE powder. I will see if I could find the IMR 4064 and the large primer this week. If i can't find that powder then i will the CFE for now.

    The hardest part is finding large primers right now. Academy , and Bass pro shot don't have them. All they have right now are smaller rifle primers.

    Weird when this whole cov thing was going on all you could find is large primer and no small primers. now it's the other way around.

    I'm just stocking up on small primers now just in case.
     

    iamjimd

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    Thank you for all the good info. I think i will order the new version for Lyman book.

    One thing I notice on bullet box was the twist rate. This bullet is for a barrow that is 1-12. My remington is 1-8 does that really matter?
    The faster twist rate (1-8) will stabilize heavier bullets than the 1-12. Lighter bullets will stabilize just fine through the faster twist barrel, but the opposite is not true.
     

    deemus

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    you hit the nail right on the head... That's my goal is to find a bullet that my rifle likes and can shoot for accuracy. Now going back to your bullet and trying to match it up. I'm looking in my book for Lyman and I see 165 gr. Jacketed Partition and 168 gr jacketed HPBT.

    Since I don't see the BTHP version rule would be I would look at the 165 jacketed Partition?

    One other thing you mention "The .308 generally uses bullets between 150 and 180 grains,"

    Should I start at 150 first and move up that way?


    The 165g loading info will work. I use the Hornady SSTs in my REM 700BDL rifle. I did a “ladder test” to find the most accurate load.

    I’ve been using IMR 4895 in my loads, but there are several that will work. W748 is great for 308.
     
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    iamjimd

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    Federal Gold Medal match ammo uses 168gr Sierra Matchking BTHP bullets. A good duplication of FGM is 43.6gr of IMR 4064. This should work just fine with your 168gr bullets. I would say the primer doesn't matter as long as you pick one when developing your load and stick with it.
     

    Deavis

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    There are other ball powders that do well in 308, TAC, 2520, BL-C(2), and CFE223. Despite the latter having 223 in its name, you'll notice it is in the burn rate zone of all the "prime" 308 powders like IMR4064, Varget, etc... You might be surprised by how well TAC does and it meters so nicely that I don't use stick for even personal loads anymore.

    Lastly, use Hodgdon's site to get a feel for the powders they offer, I don't think there is a better resource for their line-up (which is now Accurate, Ramshot, Hodgdon, IMR, etc...) with a lot of projectiles to cross reference, like the 168 A-Max. Good luck!
     

    TexMex247

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    What's your tac recipe for 175s and 180s Deavis. I thought about trading away some TAC but I keep reading that it does well in the 308. Maybe I should hold what I've got. Feel free to PM me if you don't want to hijack this thread
     

    MrRobot

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    I think I will go out and buy some TAC powder. I seen a couple bottles . I think I will start out with one bottle and see how that goes.

    If it works for me I will for sure by two more, never know might use it for something else too.


    Large primers for the 308 are hard to find. Which are some good primers? The only ones I bought since I started reloading a year ago are the CCI. I use those for my 223 ones.

    Now I have to start buying large primers for the 308.
     

    deemus

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    I have Winchester, CCI and Remington. They are all fine. But your rounds will be most consistent if you use the same ones. If you buy 1000 it will last a very long time.


    ETA - W748 was created for use specifically for the 308.
     
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    Lonesome Dove

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    Varget is my favorite powder for 308, and CFE223 is a not so distant 2nd choice. Varget is less temperature sensitive, otherwise it would be a tie.
    Meaning it works but others are better choices. Same as any other powders with any calibers. Best to use what's more popular and widely used or what is most accurate. There is always that one gun that will love a specific recipe that's a known fact. But with the price and availability of components it's not a wise choice to play that game anymore.... No reason to lead someone down a bumpy road.
     
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    MrRobot

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    thank you guys for all this great feedback. I know I have learned a lot from users on here plus reading.

    I wrote everything down in my little note book that I carry with me. Powder and Primers to look for if I see them.
    I think with all this info on here I hope that a new reloader will find this post and learn from it.

    Stay safe and keep reloading.
     

    TxStetson

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    CFE223 was engineered towards the 223 as named. Even though it's listed in one of many books it would be the last powder of choice for a 308.

    I more than understand both calibers can share a component pretty much like millions of other things but when a powder was designed as a specific and labeled as such it's pretty self explanatory.


    Meaning it works but others are better choices. Same as any other powders with any calibers. Best to use what's more popular and widely used or what is most accurate. There is always that one gun that will love a specific recipe that's a known fact. But with the price and availability of components it's not a wise choice to play that game anymore.... No reason to lead someone down a bumpy road.

    1702583963358.jpeg

    I guess you should tell the manufacturer to stop advertising this for other calibers since as you say, it’s such a poor choice.
     
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