Your gonna blow yourself up

[hswaters]

I saw a post in this thread that concerned this very problem. I have been reloading for about 2 years or less. I started on 9mm and always load them to minimum charge and after about 5000 rounds I have had no safety problems.

Anyway after I got the progressive press a friend at the range told me a progressive press is too much for a newbie to handle and that I was going to blow myself up. In fact he pretty much said that to me every time I saw him.

So recently I did come close. Hopefully you guys will cut me some slack for being honest about all this. See the video below.

 

[kyletxria1911a1]

No worries accidents happen no injuries = a good thing

 

[Acera]

When using a progressive press, I have found it easier to take samples from the finished rounds to check powder drop accuracy rather than trying to pull one out of the middle of the process. Take a bullet puller (hammer style) and disassemble the round, remove the projectile and measure the powder. Never had a problem with a progressive double charging.

 

[hswaters]

When using a progressive press, I have found it easier to take samples from the finished rounds to check powder drop accuracy rather than trying to pull one out of the middle of the process. Take a bullet puller (hammer style) and disassemble the round, remove the projectile and measure the powder. Never had a problem with a progressive double charging.

I have been told that the only way this powder measure will double charge is if you don't index the shell plate and push the round into the die twice. I don't know if that happened or not. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Younggun]

Mechanical malfunction is the only way I know a double charge can happen on a progressive.

Looks like your using a Lee, me too. (Didn't watch the vid).

I've had a primer get stuck from time to time and after jacking things around to get it out I've found the best thing to do is clear the plate and start from stage one.

I set any partial rounds to the side and finish them giving each round my full attention to make sure no steps are skipped.....or added.


I do think a single stage is good for learning the process, but imagine it would be much easier to "blow yourself up" on a turret than a progressive.

You might also try using a fluffy powder. Several will overflow the case before allowing a double charge, even of the minimum.

 

[Acera]

I have been told that the only way this powder measure will double charge is if you don't index the shell plate and push the round into the die twice. I don't know if that happened or not. Thanks for the reply.

The problems I have had are mainly when I start trying to pull out and replace items in the process. If something does not look right, I watch it until it's done and then remove it, then check it. Now if a bent case or something that might jamb up the system, I pull that out of the rotation. I use a Dillon for my 9mm and .45.

 

[Brains]

Looking at the hole blown in the base of the cartridge, it looks like a very hot or double load coupled with a partially unsupported chamber. In .45ACP, it's not all that uncommon nor is it unsafe (to not have 100% chamber coverage), because it's a relatively low pressure round. Lots of early .40 S&W kabooms in early Glocks before they tightened up the chamber though, that angry little round likes to display flaws with great fanfare.

Really glad you weren't injured, other than the loss of a nice gun. Your video is a good reminder to not get complacent while reloading, and to check everything often. It's all too easy to miss something that can turn the expected bang into a kaboom.

 

[hswaters]

When using a progressive press, I have found it easier to take samples from the finished rounds to check powder drop accuracy rather than trying to pull one out of the middle of the process. Take a bullet puller (hammer style) and disassemble the round, remove the projectile and measure the powder. Never had a problem with a progressive double charging.

Actually on my press to check powder weight all I have to do after the powder is dispensed is to pull the little finger back that holds the case on the shell plate. Then I can use a spare case that has been set for the tare weight to pour the powder into and see how much I have. So far whenever I check I am not over weight. The powder measure stays very close to the desired. If I want to load 6.1 grains then I can count on 6.1 80% of the time or better and the other is made up of 6.0 or 6.2. I was loading the 45 with the little micrometer adjustment but normally use the disks for the powder measure. Thanks for the reply.

 

[hswaters]

Brains I have heard the same thing other places about the unsupported area. I too am glad that I wasn't injured. Thanks for the reply.

 

[hswaters]

Younggun the very first thing I looked for after I got my press was a nice fluffy powder that would overflow the case. I have not found it, instead I have had to take whatever I could get. Maybe someday we will be able to order what we want instead of what is in stock. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Younggun]

I know the feeling.

 

[F350-6]

So for someone who is just thinking about getting into reloading at some point, would weighing each completed round tip you off that something's not right?

 

[Acera]

Actually on my press to check powder weight all I have to do after the powder is dispensed is to pull the little finger back that holds the case on the shell plate. Then I can use a spare case that has been set for the tare weight to pour the powder into and see how much I have. So far whenever I check I am not over weight. The powder measure stays very close to the desired. If I want to load 6.1 grains then I can count on 6.1 80% of the time or better and the other is made up of 6.0 or 6.2. I was loading the 45 with the little micrometer adjustment but normally use the disks for the powder measure. Thanks for the reply.

How do you account for the variance in the weight of different cases???

I separate each rile case and lot groups of cases that weigh closest to each other. I think variances in handgun cases would be smaller than in bigger rifle ones, but there is some. I prefer to weigh the powder charge, not more than one component, otherwise I can't count the measurement being accurate to what I want to measure.

 

[Dawico]

So for someone who is just thinking about getting into reloading at some point, would weighing each completed round tip you off that something's not right?

Not necessarily for handgun rounds. The charge weighs 4 or so grains and the bullet 100 to 230 grains and the case is variable. I don't remember about what they weigh off hand. The powder is a very small percentage of the total.

I visually inspect each charge. It is well worth the effort.

 

[ROGER4314]

I use my electronic scales for many different tasks. If I'm uncertain about the accuracy of charge weights, I can and do, weigh the completed rounds. I do it differently, though and it makes the process go faster & easier.

Take a round that you KNOW is correct OR make one round that has a measured charge. Place it on the scale and push "tare" or "Zero" depending on your scale. Then measure each round. The typical reading that you get will be +.1 grain or -.1 grain. If you get a wild card like - .5 grain, then put it aside and pull it down. I do NOT trust the tare function for too many cycles and re- enter the test cartridge "tare" weight after every 10 or so measurements.

Be aware that not all variation is caused by charge differences. Bullet weights will vary some, especially in pistol cast bullets. Weigh a few bullets so you get an idea of their variance.

The ONLY time that I've had powder charge issues on my Dillon's were in loading .223 with long grained spaghetti shaped IMR 4895 powder. The powder funnel is so small in diameter that a few granules of powder can bridge in the funnel. One charge goes light and the next round is heavy. The Dillon instruction manual warns about this problem and I switched to 748 ball powder in .223 to avoid this variation.

Flash

 

[Texasjack]

It's best to start on a single stage and work through all the kinks before you move up to progressive. It's not that a progressive is inherently more dangerous, it's just that things can go wrong quickly if you're not paying attention.

I often stop reloading if I start to get too tired or hot or cold or bored or whatever. If you can't be 100% invested in the work in front of you, walk away and do it another time.

 

[ROGER4314]

It's best to start on a single stage and work through all the kinks before you move up to progressive.

I concur. There's a lot of stuff happening in those dies and a single stage press allows you to learn how to set up the dies and focus on one stage at a time.

The BEST thing about single stage reloading is that cartridges are loaded in blocks or batches. I use the plastic loading blocks and run a batch of 50 through each step together. When you charge each case, replace it in the loading block. When all 50 cartridges are charged, take a light and look into every case. It only takes a minute to do and any charge variation is seen immediately! You can spot variations of as small as a few granules of powder!

Don't let anyone tell you that single stage loading is slow. Using loading blocks and having your dies preset and ready, reloading on a single stage is very fast.

The current mindset in this nation is to make you afraid of every damned thing that we encounter! While there may be some concern about hazards of reloading, the truth is ironic. We may be obsessed with the danger in reloading, but the most dangerous things that we do in our every day life is driving our car on the state roads, mowing the yard and taking a bath or shower! Statistically, these things are top dogs in injury and death statistics, yet we seldom give them a second thought!

To keep risk to a minimum, talk to experienced reloaders who have seen the issues that you're dealing with. You did that and it's the right thing to do!

When you load, keep others away. Don't try to talk to friends or family while you're loading. Don't watch TV or have other distractions around. I play classical music while I'm loading. It relaxes me without distractions.

Don't trust your memory for charge weights....Look it up in the manual every time!

Don't load based upon finishing that box/hundred/batch or other quantity. When you get tired....STOP!

Follow your gut feelings. If you THINK that you goofed, stop, back up and put those rounds aside for later evaluation!

Reloading metallic cartridges is only as safe as YOU make it.

Flash

 

[robocop10mm]

Many uninformed people think progressives are inherently dangerous. They are no more so than a single stage. They may be safer. Many folks charge a batch of cases for a single stage. With a high energy fast powder like Bullseye, it is hard to visually tell if a case is double charged in a case like the .38 Spl. I venture to say more guns have been blown up by improperly loaded ammo on a single stage than all the progressives combined.

 

[Younggun]

I think a single stage makes it easier to see what is supposed to happen in each step. You get to learn the process one step at a time and later they can all be combined on a progressive.

In my opinion, this gives a reloader an advantage when it comes to progressive reloading where they would be trying to learn and monitor 3 processes at once.


Getting experience on a particular press helps also. Once you know how it's supposed to feel, you notice very quickly if it doesn't feel right and can often tell where the problem is just by the feel.


Does that mean you can't start on a progressive? Nope. But I think learning is easier on a singe stage. It's how I prefer to teach someone new.

 

[Dawico]

I think a single stage makes it easier to see what is supposed to happen in each step. You get to learn the process one step at a time and later they can all be combined on a progressive.

In my opinion, this gives a reloader an advantage when it comes to progressive reloading where they would be trying to learn and monitor 3 processes at once.


Getting experience on a particular press helps also. Once you know how it's supposed to feel, you notice very quickly if it doesn't feel right and can often tell where the problem is just by the feel.


Does that mean you can't start on a progressive? Nope. But I think learning is easier on a singe stage. It's how I prefer to teach someone new.

Absolutely.

Another thing people forget is how handy a good single stage press is. Even if all you load is pistol rounds, it is so much easier to switch between calibers on a single than a progressive.

Need to load up ten rounds for three different calibers for function testing? It would take you all day just to swap the progressive over for that.