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  • scattergun6

    Active Member
    Rating - 100%
    3   0   0
    Sep 17, 2021
    280
    76
    San Antonio
    I've been pleasantly surprised at how well Ballistol will "perk up" wood stocks, leather, rubber, etc. I like Tung oil for refinishing but use Ballistol when all I intend to do is clean up and spruce up a gun.
     

    Lonesome Dove

    A man of vision but with no mission.
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Sep 25, 2018
    5,859
    96
    Cut n Shoot, Texas
    I did a few stocks with high gloss Lacquer like the Weeatherbys and Sakos started out. Very nice and easy to apply but deffintely not the best choice. I want to try a couple Epoxy finished stocks. Maybe my next one.
     

    BrianMDTX

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Oct 23, 2021
    64
    26
    Conroe
    I have used tung oil in the past, but I restocked a Springfield SOCOM from the composite to a USGI Big Red walnut stock. As it was the original finish, I didn’t want to do much to alter its looks. I left all the dents and dings in place (it earned them), and simply cleaned the dirt and oils off with mineral spirits and applied over 10 coats of linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits. I applied it with a cotton rag and buffed it with old T-shirts.

    This is what it looked when I got it:

    N42Kqmq.jpg
    qmRZuWa.jpg
    This is what it looked like when it was done:
    csYRTUt.jpg
    XEApiAQ.jpg
    Ts8Ic9a.jpg
     

    Bully

    Active Member
    Rating - 100%
    9   0   0
    I have used tung oil in the past, but I restocked a Springfield SOCOM from the composite to a USGI Big Red walnut stock. As it was the original finish, I didn’t want to do much to alter its looks. I left all the dents and dings in place (it earned them), and simply cleaned the dirt and oils off with mineral spirits and applied over 10 coats of linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits. I applied it with a cotton rag and buffed it with old T-shirts.

    This is what it looked when I got it:

    N42Kqmq.jpg
    qmRZuWa.jpg
    This is what it looked like when it was done:
    csYRTUt.jpg
    XEApiAQ.jpg
    Ts8Ic9a.jpg
    That is gorgeous.
    A rifle I have long wanted but can't justify.
     

    Texasjack

    TGT Addict
    Rating - 50%
    1   1   0
    Jan 3, 2010
    5,869
    96
    Occupied Texas
    Try this tip for oil finishes: On your first coat, put it on and then sand the surface (with the grain) with VERY fine sandpaper (800 grit or finer), then wipe it off. Proceed with any further coats as normal. It's kind of a variation on French polishing, where they wet the wood with water and polish with something fine like rotten stone.
     

    skfullgun

    Dances With Snakes
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Oct 14, 2017
    5,430
    96
    In the woods...
    I like this thread. You've given me some great ideas.

    I've got a couple of old wood stocked 22 rifles that were badly damaged decades ago. We finally made the connection and realized we had used "Off" to keep the mosquitoes off us while hunting.

    Mosquito spray be BAD for wood finishes!
     

    Texasjack

    TGT Addict
    Rating - 50%
    1   1   0
    Jan 3, 2010
    5,869
    96
    Occupied Texas
    I had an old, bolt-action .22 that was in pretty ragged shape. I refinished the stock and got some good spray coating from Brownells for the barrel and receiver. It was a fun project.
     

    Lonesome Dove

    A man of vision but with no mission.
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Sep 25, 2018
    5,859
    96
    Cut n Shoot, Texas
    Try this tip for oil finishes: On your first coat, put it on and then sand the surface (with the grain) with VERY fine sandpaper (800 grit or finer), then wipe it off. Proceed with any further coats as normal. It's kind of a variation on French polishing, where they wet the wood with water and polish with something fine like rotten stone.
    This fills the open pores in the grain and enables a smoother surface thus allowing for a higer sheen or a deeper looking finish no matter the product. I use 320 grit to due this. You can also collet all sanding dust from your project and mix that in the oil itself. Kinda weird to work with and sand but works great.
     
    Last edited:

    BrianMDTX

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Oct 23, 2021
    64
    26
    Conroe
    You can also use a stock filler to seal pores and smooth out the grain if you want a totally smooth finish. I’ve used it on bolt-action rifle stocks before.
     

    easy rider

    Summer Slacker
    Lifetime Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jun 10, 2015
    31,489
    96
    Odessa, Tx
    Try this tip for oil finishes: On your first coat, put it on and then sand the surface (with the grain) with VERY fine sandpaper (800 grit or finer), then wipe it off. Proceed with any further coats as normal. It's kind of a variation on French polishing, where they wet the wood with water and polish with something fine like rotten stone.
    I use steel wool.
     

    postal

    Old gun guy
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Feb 7, 2022
    24
    11
    St Paul/San Antonio
    If I want more of a low-lustre finish or a faster finish (if I dont have 2-3 weeks) I'll use boiled linseed oil. Put a tablespoon in a small microwaveable bowl and warm it up to feel "warm but not quite hot". Give the mix a little squirt (1/8 tsp) of lighter fluid (aka:naptha,
    aka:Japan dryer). This will speed up the setting and drying of the oil.
    Apply it fairly heavy so it soaks in a tad, rub with 600 grit wet or dry paper OR 4/0 steel wool. (Steel wool is packed with oil so it wont rust. Soak it and shake it dry TWICE with isopropyl alcohol to remove that oil or it'll contaminate the linseed oil).
    Wipe off the finish as dry as you can get it, then wipe it again with a clean cotton cloth. I like clean denim.
    The naptha causes the oil to dry hard in 24 hours. Repeat 3-4 times to your desired finish.
    Its faster than letting a coat dry for a week or so.
    And old oil takes forever to dry......use fresh oil.

    Lately I've been using tung oil as it usually dries to a glossier finish without the drying agent. Naptha is a petroleum distillate and is carcinogenic, and I like finishing stocks with my fingers, without gloves. You rub the oil until you can feel it start to stick (it gets tacky as it warms up with rubbing) then wipe it down. It's hard to feel the "tack" with gloves on.
    Tung oil is also less prone to get gummy in the can so I can use old stuff and still get good results. Takes a couple days to set up enough to re-coat but I like the finish better.

    Rottenstone works well and gives a darker fill for grain, allowing more depth and contrast.....but it's hard to find. If you use it, just a small dab will rub unto a lot of wood. Touch your finger to the oily finish, touch the rottenstone powder and rub away. It leaves a dark gray fill in the softer grains that makes cheaper wood look like more expensive cuts.
    Sanding adds lighter wood dust to those softer grains as a filler. Depends on what you like and the piece of wood.

    Many original military stocks were simply dipped in linseed or tung oil that had boiled and was very hot when the wood was dipped. They were hung on hooks to drip and were wiped down and assembled a day or so later.
     

    tekiwap

    Fudds gonna fudd
    Lifetime Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Apr 16, 2021
    106
    26
    SWOK
    Try this tip for oil finishes: On your first coat, put it on and then sand the surface (with the grain) with VERY fine sandpaper (800 grit or finer), then wipe it off. Proceed with any further coats as normal. It's kind of a variation on French polishing, where they wet the wood with water and polish with something fine like rotten stone.
    I do something similar. I cut tung oil with mineral spirits 50/50 so it gets drawn into the wood. When I do the sanding/wiping, I use a plastic art eraser as a sanding block and 320 grit and up sandpaper to make the sludge, then I use the eraser like a squeegee to fill the grain. I'll transition to a soft cloth after the first couple coats. Takes me about three coats of this til I can go to polishing.
     
    Last edited:

    FNORD

    TGT Addict
    Emeritus - "Texas Proud"
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    0   0   0
    Aug 30, 2009
    4,997
    96
    HOUSTON
    One that hasn’t been mentioned is Lin-Speed.

    It takes time as does tung oil, linseed oil(as this is substantly), etc.

    Beautiful results and durable.

    Birchwood Casey always surprised me. I have firearms that I refinished 52 years ago and the finish is still standing up.
     
    Last edited:

    tekiwap

    Fudds gonna fudd
    Lifetime Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Apr 16, 2021
    106
    26
    SWOK
    One that hasn’t been mentioned is Lin-Speed.

    It takes time as does tung oil, linseed oil(as this is substantly), etc.

    Beautiful results and durable.

    Birchwood Casey always surprised me. I have firearms that I refinished 52 years ago and the finish is still standing up.
    Linspeed is good if you want it done faster. Concept is still the same, just cures faster. The issue with pure linseed oil, is that it never really dries, and tung oil takes days. Linspeed or other linseed base rubbing oils with solids in them make up for that. Teak oil is good too.
     

    or.slacker

    Member
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Dec 27, 2018
    189
    26
    US
    So the short version is: Rub your wood with your bare fingers until it's sticky and it helps it get harder faster.
     
    Every Day Man
    Tyrant

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