What did you do today in the world of reloading?

[reddog]

Been cranking out 380 auto just a little faster than I've been shooting it. Been practicing off hand because in a couple of months I'm having surgery on the right hand and won't be able to shoot for probably 2 months. Figure I still need to be able to defend myself.

 

[contender buff]

Loaded up some 270 win. today, getting ready for deer season!

 

[CodyK]

Loaded up some 270 win. today, getting ready for deer season!

I loaded up 20 rounds last year, with some Hornady 129 grain (I think) interlock SP’s, and 20 rounds of 140 grain Hornady SST’s. Both shot really well out of my Savage 110. I read that the SST’s will fragment at high velocities, and I chrono’d my loading at just over 3,000 fps. Considering I probably wasn’t gonna be taking a shot much over 100-150 yards, I decided to use the Interlocks. I took 2 sighters, shot 2 deer and a hog. Got 15 left. Need to go make sure the rifle is still sighted in. If it is, I’m good!


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[candcallen]

Dreaming of starting.

 

[paknheat]

I loaded up 20 rounds last year, with some Hornady 129 grain (I think) interlock SP’s, and 20 rounds of 140 grain Hornady SST’s. Both shot really well out of my Savage 110. I read that the SST’s will fragment at high velocities, and I chrono’d my loading at just over 3,000 fps. Considering I probably wasn’t gonna be taking a shot much over 100-150 yards, I decided to use the Interlocks. I took 2 sighters, shot 2 deer and a hog. Got 15 left. Need to go make sure the rifle is still sighted in. If it is, I’m good!


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.270 was what I used last year. Had good luck with it.

I put a load together using the 140 gn Sierra btsp .

Took one red deer hind and a pretty nice whitetail buck with it.

Mine is a Savage 111 I picked up in Corsicana. Good base rifle for later on.


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[paknheat]

Loaded up some 270 win. today, getting ready for deer season!

Good luck. Hard to go wrong with the.270. I got a lotta love for that cartridge.


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[Moonpie]

Made some more bullets for the ‘61 Springfield and .54 Sharps this morning.

Iff’n them blue bellied scum Federals come up the Red River like they did in ‘64 I’ll be a ready fer’um!

 

[candcallen]

Made some more bullets for the ‘61 Springfield and .54 Sharps this morning.
View attachment 349630

View attachment 349631

Iff’n them blue bellied scum Federals come up the Red River like they did in ‘64 I’ll be a ready fer’um!

Your wife know you took her cookie sheet?

 

[Moonpie]

Your wife know you took her cookie sheet?

Not her baking pan. Mine.
Bought the thing special for making BP stuff.
Got a muffin pan too. Use it to make lube cakes.
Kinda surprising how much kitchen stuff I use.

 

[candcallen]

My wife yells when her good kitchen towels smell like Hoppes.

 

[Moonpie]

My wife yells when her good kitchen towels smell like Hoppes.

 

[BBL]

Been tumbling some .45 brass all morning. Gotta load up some more tonight because I blew through two bricks yesterday during qualifiers.
The cold front is bringing some nice cool air, won't even need A/C in the work shed. Gonna crank up some good ol' rock and load up maybe 200 rds for next time.

 

[wickll]

Ruined some 22 Hornet brass this morning. But I continue to learn. So as I was going to resize some 22 hornet brass, it seems like the decapping pin was sticking out of the die way too much. So I backed it off some. Maybe I should read instructions more.

Anyway, after sticking a case in one, and crushing several other cases, I did a quick search. There were a number of threads on forums regarding the 22 hornet so it seems to be a common problem. It seems that if the decapping pin and expander ball is not screwed in far enough, the expander will try to expand the neck while the die is trying to compress the neck. Hence causing it to stick.The threads didn't say it in this way, but this seems to me what is happening.

So the expander ball has to be seated deeper so that it is not in the neck when the die is sizing the neck. After making this adjustment, everything seems to be working fine. It is great that there is so much information on the internet available at our fingertips.

Anyway, it seems that this is probably the problem on 22 hornet because of the small case . Much less forgiving on how the decapping pin /expander ball depth is set. Please chime in I am missing something.

But , I did get a few rounds loaded using .223 diameter bullets and 2400 powder. I know there are probably better combinations, and I have several others I will eventually use such as H110 and Lil Gun. But I am just experimenting right now and this is for my Contender.

 

[Nofir55]

Made some more bullets for the ‘61 Springfield and .54 Sharps this morning.
View attachment 349630

View attachment 349631

Iff’n them blue bellied scum Federals come up the Red River like they did in ‘64 I’ll be a ready fer’um!

Absolutely beautiful !!

did you tumble them? how come they're so shiny??

 

[V-Tach]

60 rds .308 another 40 tomorrow night,,,,,,,

Federal Gold Medal Match Brass
Sierra Match King 168 gr. BTHP
Federal 210 Match large rifle primers
42.1 gr. Varget

 

[candcallen]

Still dreaming.

Probably wont be buying from the noob.

Whe he posts.

Lol

 

[Moonpie]

Absolutely beautiful !!

did you tumble them? how come they're so shiny??

No. These are straight out of the mould.

Pro tips:

1.) mould is spotless clean, prepared, and DRY for use.
2.) casting metal clean as possible. No grit or other crud in it.
3.) molten metal at the proper temperature. Pure lead shouldn’t be too hot.
Alloy metal will need to be hotter than pure.
4.) mould has to be up to proper temperature. This may require numerous pours into the mould before it reaches optimal temperature.
5.) work quickly as you are pouring. Keep the mould hot by always having fresh molten metal in it. Pour-wait a moment for the metal to set- tap the sprue cutter - drop the bullet - immediately refill mould. Don’t waste any time. Refill mould ASAP.
Do any other tasks while the metal is setting in the mould.
Keep all your tools and extra melting metal within arms reach.
Find a rhythm and go with it.
Many bullets will not come out perfect. Most will have some flaw.
They’re still usable. If you feel the flaw is too severe just drop’um right back in the melting pot. The big minie’ bullets are a particular pain in the ass to get right. Smaller bullets and round balls are way easier.

Mould comments:
Basically you have two choices of bullet mould commonly available today.
Aluminum or iron.
IMO iron moulds typically are easier to get good bullets from. They hold heat hetter.
The down side is they cost a lot more, require much more maintenance, and are much heavier. This heaviness leads to quicker arm fatigue.
Aluminum moulds(like Lee makes) are much more affordable and simple. They can produce quality bullets. The aluminum heats up much faster but cools very fast. You really gotta work fast when using aluminum moulds. IMO they’re great for small bullet or round ball use. Big honking 500 grain type bullets are very difficult to get right out of an aluminum mould. Just my opinion.

 

[deemus]

I have all the stuff to do it, but Mailman disappeared. He was going to teach me.

 

[Nofir55]

No. These are straight out of the mould.

Pro tips:

1.) mould is spotless clean, prepared, and DRY for use.
2.) casting metal clean as possible. No grit or other crud in it.
3.) molten metal at the proper temperature. Pure lead shouldn’t be too hot.
Alloy metal will need to be hotter than pure.
4.) mould has to be up to proper temperature. This may require numerous pours into the mould before it reaches optimal temperature.
5.) work quickly as you are pouring. Keep the mould hot by always having fresh molten metal in it. Pour-wait a moment for the metal to set- tap the sprue cutter - drop the bullet - immediately refill mould. Don’t waste any time. Refill mould ASAP.
Do any other tasks while the metal is setting in the mould.
Keep all your tools and extra melting metal within arms reach.
Find a rhythm and go with it.
Many bullets will not come out perfect. Most will have some flaw.
They’re still usable. If you feel the flaw is too severe just drop’um right back in the melting pot. The big minie’ bullets are a particular pain in the ass to get right. Smaller bullets and round balls are way easier.

Mould comments:
Basically you have two choices of bullet mould commonly available today.
Aluminum or iron.
IMO iron moulds typically are easier to get good bullets from. They hold heat hetter.
The down side is they cost a lot more, require much more maintenance, and are much heavier. This heaviness leads to quicker arm fatigue.
Aluminum moulds(like Lee makes) are much more affordable and simple. They can produce quality bullets. The aluminum heats up much faster but cools very fast. You really gotta work fast when using aluminum moulds. IMO they’re great for small bullet or round ball use. Big honking 500 grain type bullets are very difficult to get right out of an aluminum mould. Just my opinion.

Yes sir !!
Thank you for that, I may print and laminate this !

 

[Moonpie]

Yes sir !!
Thank you for that, I may print and laminate this !

more:
Clean your mould(s) before starting with an old toothbrush and toothpaste. Scrub them out. You need to get all oil residue out of them.
Rinse thoroughly using hot water.
Then dry the mould. I use a propane torch to heat the mould slightly to insure all moisture is removed.
Next you need to prep the mould. I just use a candle. Let the candle smoke thoroughly coat the inside cavity of the mould. Don’t forget the the mould block faces where they meet together. Candle smoke has a teeny amount of wax residue in it. This acts as a release agent.
There are commercial made sprays for this but they cost a bit.
Candle smoke doesn’t last very long so if the bullets start sticking in the mould on drop out resmoke your mould.
When done casting for the day allow the mould to cool to ambient then clean it again with the toothpaste. Dry it. Apply rust preventative oil.
Store the mould slightly open with the front tip of the bullet pointing up. This allows the oil to drain down and out of the bullet cavity. Storing the mould closed up bullet point down allows the run off oil to settle in the ogive of the bullet cavity. There it collects moisture and will cause a corrosion blister. Typically a bad rust spot. In aluminum moulds it can congeal to a solid lump of rock hard tar that is a pain in the arse to get out without scratching the cavity.
Don’t forget a drop of oil on the handle pivot bearing.