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Suppressed Browning BAR ShortTrac – Assembly Instructions – LONG

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  • RipGear

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    Feb 27, 2014
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    Missouri City, TX
    I have posted this before but we were not able to update the pictures on the original after the photobucket debacle so here it is again. Hopefully it will help BAR and FNAR owners suppress their rifles, they are alot of fun.

    SHORT VERSION:


    I wanted to suppress my Browning BAR ShortTrac in .308 Win but for over a year I couldn’t find a machine shop that would thread it due to not being able to remove the barrel from the receiver. Luckily I was referred to Class 3 Machining in the Dallas area for barrel threading as they are familiar with the FNAR that is dimensionally similar to the current BAR. Morgan of Class 3 Machining was able to remove 4.5” from the 22” barrel to get enough diameter to thread it 5/8X24 which is the standard .30 caliber thread size. The barrel is now 17.5” long (the goal was somewhere between 16.5” to 18”). I’ve read that removing barrel length from the BAR or using a suppressor will result in problems with the gas system for various reasons. I’m happy to report that the BAR, like the FNAR, has a fully adjustable piston gas system that is functioning perfectly with the shortened barrel and a SilencerCo Harvester suppressor. I’m running the gas system half open after test firing at multiple settings so there is room to adjust for more or less gas in the future if needed. The rifle is now my primary hunting companion, many hogs, deer, and coyote have been taken with it.

    Full build details and assembly instructions can be found below:

    Gun: Browning BAR ShortTrac Oil Finish .308 Winchester (PN: 031534218)

    Scope: Nikon ProStaff 4-12 X 40MM BDC (PN: 6729)

    Scope Mount: DNZ Products Game Reaper 1” Tube, High, 1-Piece Base (PN: 54500)

    Sling: Leather sling, 1” wide strap.

    Swivels: The Outdoor Connection Talon Stainless QD Sling Swivels (PN: TAL-79450) (FYI: The BAR has factory installed sling studs)

    Suppressor: SilencerCo Harvester (.30 Caliber using the 5/8X24 interchangeable direct-thread mount)

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    Disassembly instructions to follow.
    Military Camp
     

    RipGear

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    LONG VERSION: HOW-TO

    SAFTEY NOTE / DISCLAIMER:

    ENSURE NO AMMUNITION IS IN THE GUN OR IN THE WORK AREA!!! I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL GUNSMITH, THIS IS FOR INFORMATION ONLY AND NO WARRANTY IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED BY ME OR BROWNING. I EXPECT BROWNING TO DENY AN WARRANTY CLAIMS DUE TO THE MODIFICATIONS MADE TO THE FIREARM.

    SECTION 0: DISSASSEMBLY

    TOOLS NEEDED:

    Small Punch, Needle Nose Pliers, Medium Phillips Head Screwdriver, Extra Small Flathead Screwdriver, Small Flathead Screwdriver, Medium Flathead Screwdriver, Large Long Flathead Screwdriver, Non-marring Hammer or Mallet, and an Allen Wrench.


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    Put the trigger safety on safe. Remove any scope mount from the receiver. Open the magazine door and remove the magazine. Cycle the bolt to ensure the hammer is cocked.

    Using a punch, push the two trigger group pins out of the receiver from left to right.


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    Use a punch to turn the fore end sling swivel screw counter clockwise until it is loose. Be careful to not hit the barrel or stock with the punch extending through the swivel. Pull the fore end off of the rifle pulling in line with the barrel.


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    Unlatch the long arm of the bolt stop spring from the long arm of the lever using needle nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver. With the bolt stop lever loose, pull the pivot pin and remove the bolt stop lever from the receiver. With the magazine door held closed, pull the bolt stop spring out of the left side of the receiver making sure the long arm is not hooked onto the right side of the receiver. I used needle nose pliers to do this but do not force it as you don’t want to bend it.


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    RipGear

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    With the bolt fully forward, remove the action bars by pulling them out of the grooves in the inertia weight. Rotate them away from the barrel to unlock the action bar tab from the slot in the bolt.

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    Slide the bolt cover forward so that the large opening is forward of the groove the charging handle resides in. Use a very small flathead screwdriver to lift the small black tab on the leading edge of the charging handle. While holding the tab up, slide the charging handle forward out of the groove. It can then be lifted out of the bolt assuming the bolt cover is properly aligned to give it clearance.

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    With the charging handle removed, pull the bolt body back and disengage it from the barrel lugs. The bolt face needs to be in the extended position. Rotate the bolt down and out of the receiver. It may take a little trial and error but do not force it.


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    Using a small flathead screwdriver, loosen and remove the threaded pin on the right side of the receiver that holds the guide rod in place.


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    Using a small punch and a non-marring hammer, tap the solid pin that retains the rear of the guide rod out of the receiver from right to left.

    NOTE: The recoil spring in my gun had a light amount of orange paint on the receiver end of the spring. I made note of this for re-assembly but I don’t think it matters as it fit into the inertia weight both ways.


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    Now slide the guide rod rearward into the receiver. You should be able to remove the inertia weight, recoil spring, and piston. With all of those items removed, slide the guide rod forward into the piston housing which will allow it to pivot out of the gun. I left the buffer plates and pad on the guide rod but they can be slid off of it at any time.


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    Last edited:

    RipGear

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    NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE MAGAZINE DOOR. This is as far as the receiver will need to be stripped. The magazine door is held in place with a pin that has had the ends flared and cannot be removed without damaging the pin/receiver/door. Class3Machining can thread the barrel with the magazine door in place. Use blue painters tape to hold it shut during shipment so that it doesn’t get broken as it is plastic.

    Using a standard sized Phillips head screwdriver, loosen the two wood screws holding the buttpad in place. With both of them loose the buttpad will pull rearward off of the stock.

    Using a long flathead screwdriver, loosen the stock bolt. Be gentle when pulling the stock off of the receiver. I put mine on a towel on a soft surface as stocks have a tendency to release suddenly and you don’t want to hit it or the receiver/barrel into anything nearby.

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    You are now complete with disassembly!

    Send the barrel/receiver to Morgan at Class3Machining ( http://class3machining.com ). I was able to send the direct thread mount for the Harvester with the barrel so Morgan could ensure everything would be correct. This is not necessary if you are using a direct thread can but may be a good idea if you plan to use a QD flash hider or muzzle brake. I recommend removing some length from the barrel not only to get the correct OD for threading but to also make the barrel more rigid. I have noticed that my barrel at 17.5” doesn’t seem to open my groups up as much as it did prior to threading/suppressing when the barrel was 22”.

    While the barrel/receiver is away, clean and lightly oil the piston, recoil spring, inertia weight, bolt, and action bars.


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    Wait for the barrel/receiver to return.
     
    Last edited:

    RipGear

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    REASSEMBLY

    SECTION 1: GAS SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT – BEFORE ASSEMBLY

    On the gas block that is attached to the barrel, the left side allen screw is a set screw and the right side flat head screw is the gas adjustment screw. Back the set screw out two or three turns (it should be really loose) to release the gas adjustment screw. If possible, screw the adjustment screw all the way in (clockwise) and count the rotations to determine the factory gas setting. Mine took 4 rotations to go from fully open to fully closed. I removed the allen head gas block port screw to determine this (it is on the bottom of the gas block). Use blue Loctite to re-install the gas block port screw if you remove it. I suggest setting the gas block to 50% open (2 turns out from closed in my case) as this setting worked best for me at the range. Re-tighten the allen set screw.


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    SECTION 2: RECOIL ASSEMBLY

    Install the guide rod by inserting the solid end into the piston housing then sliding the drilled end into the hole in the receiver. Slide it about half way into the receiver. The two plates and nylon buffer pad should be installed onto the guide rod with the tabbed plate facing rearward and with the barrel cut out facing the barrel. Insert the piston into the housing. Insert the recoil spring into the inertia weight. My spring had a small amount of orange paint on it near the receiver so I reinstalled it that way but I don’t think it makes a difference as it fit both ways. Slide the recoil spring over the guide rod and compress it until the inertia weight can fit flush against the piston. I pushed the guide rod forward and recompressed the spring several times to keep everything in line. Use a small punch to push the guide rod forward until the index hole aligns with the threaded pin hole. Loosely insert the threaded pin to hold the guide rod in place. Insert the solid pin into the rear hole from left to right with the tapered end facing left. You may have to tap it into place with a rubber mallet to get it fully seated. With the solid pin fully installed remove the threaded pin. Apply blue Loctite to the threaded pin threads and hand tighten with a flathead screwdriver.

    CHECK: Manually retract the inertia weight and ensure the piston can move freely to the rear of the piston housing.


    SECTION 3: BOLT INSTALLATION

    Extend the bolt face and drop it into the receiver. There is a tab on the side of the bolt that can retract when the bolt face is forward. Push it in as it makes it easier to install the bolt. With the bolt fully seated into the receiver, slide the bolt cover forward to facilitate inserting the charging handle. The charging handle is inserted into the large opening and is slid rearward into the groove in the bolt. Hold the rear of the bolt while inserting the charging handle and it will click into place. No tools are needed for this operation.

    CHECK: Use the charging handle to work the bolt open and closed.


    SECTION 4: ACTION BARS

    With the bolt fully forward, install each action bar. Insert the bolt end into the receiver at about a 45* angle. Rotate it down as it is inserted and ensure the guide rod tab inserts into the slot in the bolt. Each guide rod should freely rotate down and easily click into the grooves on the inertia weight. They should not be forced. Look through the magazine well to see the tab to slot engagement. No tools are needed for this operation.

    CHECK: Holding the action bars to the inertia weight to keep them from popping off, pull the charging handle to cycle the bolt.


    SECTION 5: BOLT RELEASE

    Holding the magazine door closed, insert the U-shaped bend of the bolt release spring into the hole on the left side of the receiver. There is a small notch in the magazine door that needs to align with the small arm of the spring. The long arm of the spring should be under the buffer plate tab and protruding over the right side of the receiver. Drop the bolt release lever into the receiver around the action bar. Align the small notch at the end of the bolt release lever with the long arm of the spring. Pull the bolt release lever into alignment with the pin hold and drop the pin into place. No tools are needed for this operation.

    CHECK: The bolt release should pivot freely. You can pull the bolt rearward and manually lock it back with the bolt release but there is a chance the action bars will pop off of the inertia weight – be careful! Leave it locked back to aide in fore end installation.
     
    Last edited:

    RipGear

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    SECTION 6: FORE END

    Slide the fore end over the action bars rearward until you engage the threaded sling swivel. Use a punch to tighten the screw being careful to not hit your stock or barrel with the end of the punch.

    CHECK: Pull the charging handle rearward to release the bolt lever and work the action.


    SECTION 7: STOCK

    Put blue Loctite on the stock bolt, use a long flathead screwdriver to install the stock onto the receiver and hand tighten. Don’t overtighten as you may crack the stock or strip the aluminum threads in the receiver.

    Put a small amount of gun oil onto the tapered shoulder of the buttpad screws and onto the shaft of a Phillips head screwdriver. This will help the screws spin in the rubber buttpad. Hand tighten the screws taking care to not strip the threads.


    SECTION 8: TRIGGER GROUP

    Drop the cocked/safe trigger group into the receiver. Push the two trigger pins into the receiver from the left to right. No tools are needed for this operation.

    CHECK:

    ENSURE NO AMMUNITION IS IN THE GUN OR IN THE WORK AREA!!!

    POINT THE RIFLE IN A SAFE DIRECTION FOR TRIGGER CHECK!!!

    Trigger on safe, bolt forward, no magazine, pull the trigger: it should not drop the hammer.

    Trigger on fire, bolt forward, no magazine, pull the trigger: it should drop the hammer.

    Cycle the bolt.

    Trigger on safe, bolt forward, no magazine, pull the trigger: it should not drop the hammer.

    Trigger on fire, bolt forward, no magazine, pull the trigger: it should drop the hammer.

    Insert an empty magazine.

    Cycle the bolt, it should lock back.

    Drop the bolt with the bolt stop lever, trigger on fire, pull the trigger: it should drop the hammer.

    At this point the trigger should be functioning properly and it is time to live fire function test the rifle.


    SECTION 10: GAS SYSTEM ADJUSTMENT – AT THE RANGE

    Before removing the fore end at the range lock the bolt back as this will help hold the action bars in place and will show the gun is safe. It is also easier to reinstall the fore end with the action locked back.

    Remember that all of my gas settings are with the suppressor installed as I do not plan to use the rifle unsuppressed. I started at 25% open (1 turn out from closed) and the bolt barely moved a ¼”rearward upon firing. I next tried 75% open (3 turns out) and the gun cycled and locked back with several types of ammunition. The brass was being thrown far and to the 2 o’clock position. I next backed it down to 37% open (1.5 turns out) and was experiencing only ½ stroke of the bolt with no ejection. Finally I set the gas to 50% open (2 turns out) and the gun cycled and locked back on all of the ammunition types I had. The brass was being thrown to the 4 o’clock position and less than half the distance of the 75% gas adjustment. The 50% setting had less recoil than the 75% setting. I plan to run this and may adjust a ¼ turn more or less gas depending on how the gun cycles as it gets dirtier.

    Remember to loosen the set screw, adjust the gas screw, and re-tighten the set screw for each adjustment!!! I didn’t use Loctite on the gas screw or set screw but I plan to periodically check to see if the set screw loosens with firing.


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    HKShooter65

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    You have constructed an amazing and informative post.

    A while back I passed in a good deal on an FNAR that was already threaded and gorgeously two-toned ceracoated.

    I passed because I perused, at that time, some web sites that simply and erroneously said that the BAR and FNAR were terribly over-gassed when suppressed.
    Darn. My loss.

    Your tutorial on the adjustable gas system is a godsend.

    I'm back on the market.
    THANK you!

    HKS
     

    LPCivil16

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    RipGear,Sucker76 and HKShooter65 thank you for your posts.

    Rip Gear,
    After reading your post I had my BAR threaded and now I am in the process of adjusting the gas block to cycle subsonic ammo. After going through Section #1 and #10 noted above, I noticed that underneath (or in front of) the Allen Set Screw was a small brass stud or spacer that was not noted or shown in your instructions. My assumption is that the brass stud is softer metal and allows the Allen Set Screw to be tightened without damaging the threads on the Flat head gas adjustment screw. Your thoughts? Will this brass spacer / stud cause any issues when I adjust out the Flat head gas adjustment screw seeing that it is tapered and the threads do not extend the full length of the screw? Thoughts or suggestions?

    Also, by any chance do you recall what size Allen Wrench you used to remove the Allen Head Gas Block Port Screw? I have tried both standard and metric wrenches and the metric wrench that is the closest fit feels more loose than I am comfortable with. My next step is to heat up the Flat head gas adjustment screw to eliminate any Loctite material that may have been used during assembly.

    Sucker76 and HKShooter65 please feel free to chime if you had any of my same issues.

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    sucker76

    Don't let the username fool you
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    Lake Jackson
    Welcome to the forum. Life is getting in the way of that project and I haven't started it yet. Hopefully I can get to it in a couple of months.
     

    TBarTX

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    I just joined this website. I am looking to purchase a BAR Mark III – Hell’s Canyon Speed 243. I am wanting to make it my primary Suppressed deer rifle but also have some more capacity if I see Hogs. This rifle has a fluted barrel and I question whether a fluted barrel can be threaded. How accurate are most people’s rifles? I am planning on using this rifle primarily for deer hunting and for Hogs if they happen to show up. I use an AR in 7.62 x 39 when I am strictly Hog hunting. I am used to sub MOA accuracy. Thanks for your help.
     

    ZX9RCAM

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    I just joined this website. I am looking to purchase a BAR Mark III – Hell’s Canyon Speed 243. I am wanting to make it my primary Suppressed deer rifle but also have some more capacity if I see Hogs. This rifle has a fluted barrel and I question whether a fluted barrel can be threaded. How accurate are most people’s rifles? I am planning on using this rifle primarily for deer hunting and for Hogs if they happen to show up. I use an AR in 7.62 x 39 when I am strictly Hog hunting. I am used to sub MOA accuracy. Thanks for your help.

    Welcome to the Forum!
     

    sucker76

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    Lake Jackson
    I just joined this website. I am looking to purchase a BAR Mark III – Hell’s Canyon Speed 243. I am wanting to make it my primary Suppressed deer rifle but also have some more capacity if I see Hogs. This rifle has a fluted barrel and I question whether a fluted barrel can be threaded. How accurate are most people’s rifles? I am planning on using this rifle primarily for deer hunting and for Hogs if they happen to show up. I use an AR in 7.62 x 39 when I am strictly Hog hunting. I am used to sub MOA accuracy. Thanks for your help.

    Welcome to the forum. My FNAR has a fluted barrel but the flutes top about 2-3" from the muzzle. The muzzle diameter is also large enough to thread 5/8-24.
    My plan is to cut the barrel down to either 18" or 16". This will put the treaded portion in the flutes but I dont think that will matter as I will have a gunsmith thread it on a lathe.
     
    Every Day Man
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