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S&W M&P Restoration Project

Discussion in 'Handguns' started by Maverick44, May 13, 2020.

  1. Maverick44

    Maverick44 Certified All-American Gun Nut

    I don't have the stuff to do bead blasting, though I plan to get it eventually. The Evaporust did exactly what it said it would do. It removed pretty much ever bit of rust in only a few hours.

    61d733a6c06bcc5ce34eeb116ea20021.jpg

    It unfortunately uncovered something I didn't want to see. Pits. Not really in the internals, but all of those black areas on the frame and barrel were hiding pits. Thankfully, almost all of them are extremely shallow and the worst ones should still be removable without causing any issues. I'll just have to be careful around the stamping on the barrel and frame. Some of them are kind of shallow and overzealous sanding could ruin them.

    The Evaporust left behind some grey splotches where the black used to be. They sand off with little effort.

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    I also discovered that the rebound spring was not in good shape. It came out in 4 pieces. Luckily, that's one of the parts I ordered from Wolff.

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    I've got everything oiled up to prevent flash rusting, and I'll start on the sanding tomorrow.
     


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  2. Geezer

    Geezer Available For Parties TGT Supporter

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    @Maverick44 , check around with an auto repair shop or motorcycle shop and find someone with a bead blaster. Take the frame & barrel, crane, side plate and, cylinder. It will only take them a few minutes and you'll be pleased with the results. Then you can blue it or parkerize it and it will look great.

    I picked up a Model 66 S&W that had been badly neglected. It was discolored with some rust freckles and had some pitting. The bore and cylinder chambers were still good. I disassembled it and took those pieces to a local motorcycle shop and had them bead blasted. It turned out really well. It's the one in this picture.

    Woods Carry.jpg
     
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  3. mongoose

    mongoose Member

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    I took a fairly severely rusted and pitted pistol ,bead blasted and then Parkerized it.......very happy with the results.
     
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  4. Maverick44

    Maverick44 Certified All-American Gun Nut

    There's something about bead blasting a classic revolver that just seems, wrong. There's just something about a polished blue finish that looks right on them. Unfortunately, I don't think that's going to happen with this gun. Some of the pits are worse than I thought, and cannot be removed without removing a substantial amount of metal along with them.

    I am torn between leaving the bad areas of pitting (there are only a few) and polishing/bluing as planned, or bead blasting and settling for a matte blue finish. The areas on the barrel could probably be removed. The ones on the top strap might be too deep to remove though.

    As mush as I hate to say it, I'm leaning towards the bead blasted matte finish.

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  5. Spcwolf

    Spcwolf Active Member

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    Man I can’t wait to see what it finally looks like. I have a model 10 nickel in 38spc. Perfect condition, early 80s model.
     
  6. SQLGeek

    SQLGeek Wheel Gun Nut TGT Supporter

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    I'd bead blast it myself but I get why you want to stick with the bluing.
     
  7. Maverick44

    Maverick44 Certified All-American Gun Nut

    Ok, I got a LOT of work done on the revolver. The bead blasting was a good idea, the finish on the metal was absolutely beautiful. I used the finest grain (#10) that I could get off of amazon. There's a lot of pitting that I couldn't get rid of unfortunately. There's nothing that can be done about it, so it's just something I'm going to have to live with.

    The gun is blued, and it turned out pretty nice. I also got my order from Wolff in, so I'm going to try to assemble the gun tonight.
     
  8. satx78247

    satx78247 TGT Addict

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    Maverick44,

    IF it was MY revolver, I would BLACK parkerize it & ENJOY a really classic M&P/ersatz Victory model.
    (During WWII, a LOT of "commercial buy" Colt's & S&W revolvers were refinished with manganese at various depots in CONUS & OCONUS too.)

    YES, there were .32-20 revolvers in the US DoW inventory.

    NICE PROJECT, imVho, too.

    yours, satx
     
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  9. SQLGeek

    SQLGeek Wheel Gun Nut TGT Supporter

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    Can't wait to see the new finish.
     
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  10. Maverick44

    Maverick44 Certified All-American Gun Nut

    I wasn't able to get the gun together last night. The night before last was rough, so I went to bed when I got home from work.

    Here's the gun after beadblasting. You can see that there are some areas that I couldn't sand the pits out of, but for the most part, it cleaned up really nicely.

    dd1d1e588acc2e3831369d1f06087429.jpg

    Here's the gun being "scalded". Basically, to rust blue, you wipe a thin even later of a solution on the gun, you put it somewhere humid (steamy bathroom) and you let it rust for at least three hours, but not for so long that the rust causes pits. The first time you do this, you reapply the solution over the rust and let it sit for another three hours. After that, you pour boiling distilled water over the gun and let it sit until cool (this is scalding). This turns the red rust into black rust. You then "card" the black rust off of the gun with some 0000 steel wool and repeat the process. I did the process 4 times on the crane/cylinder parts, and 6 times on the frame, barrel, and side plate (there were a few spots that wouldn't blue evenly).

    The last time you scald the rusted gun, you do so with baking soda and distilled water to stop the chemical reaction causing the rusting. It's suggested you scald one last time after carding with clean distilled water. This is probably to help clean any loose black rust off the gun that you missed when carding. (After scaling, it's like a powder)

    As you can see, this was a labor intensive process, and carding the gun was messy. It produces a nice, durable blue through. Far better than cold blue, and safer/cheaper than hot bluing.

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    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     


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