Let's say you had a weird gun.

[Wolfwood]

Like a pistol with a 16 inch barrel.
What would be the rules with stabilizing that with some sort of arm or shoulder device?

Reason I ask is, I have a weird gun.

 

[Wolfwood]

Also I should add this is a factory configuration with an overall length of just over 21 inches.

 

[Wiliamr]

Well, a "shoulder device" would be illegal and get you some jail time. (Edited to correct my original post) After checking the ATF site... it would not be illegal as long as barrel is truely 16 inches. Drop a dowel down barrel to bolt face with bolt closed. If you have a muzzle device that is not permanently attached, remove it, and measure to the crown. pull it out and see what the tape measure tells you.

 

[Bozz10mm]

IANAL but generally, you can turn a pistol into a rifle, but not a rifle into a pistol.

 

[Wiliamr]

If it is truely 16 inch perhaps. I nkow Thompson COntender pistols had the option of adding a stock to the pistol for the really long barrels that were available for them. There were some disagreements between owners, T/C and the ATF and I honestly do not know what ATF would say now about your situation, but I know I wouldnt do it and take the pistol on the road.....

 

[Wiliamr]

From ATF.

Assuming that the firearm was originally a pistol, the resulting firearm, with an attached shoulder stock, is not an NFA firearm if it has a barrel of 16 inches or more in length.
Pursuant to ATF Ruling 2011-4, such rifle may later be unassembled and again configured as a pistol. Such configuration would not be considered a “weapon made from a rifle” as defined by 26 U.S.C. § 5845(a)(4).
[26 U.S.C. § 5845, 27 CFR § 479.11]

 

[Wolfwood]

the weapon in question is a heritage roughrider in the configuration seen here

Heritage Rough Rider 22LR Rimfire Revolver with 16-Inch Barrel

Heritage: Rough Rider 22LR Rimfire Revolver with 16-Inch Barrel for sale at Sportsman's Outdoor Superstore.

www.sportsmansoutdoorsuperstore.com

 

[Wolfwood]

 

[Wolfwood]

thanks williamR, that is what i was thinking, but i figured if it was legal there'd be 100 different carbine kits out for this already. i cant find one!

i think it would be slick to have something like a catlleman carbine kit, especially with the .22 wmr cylinder

 

[Moonpie]

As a previous poster stated: You can convert a handgun into a rifle but not a rifle into a handgun.
In your case adding a should stock to your long barreled revolver should be fine.
Now as I understand it you CANNOT convert it back into a handgun. It must stay in longgun configuration once converted. In your case the 16" barrel is factory so IMO you're walking on the thin line with it.
Its a stupid rule but it is the rule and Mr.ATFman can be a dick about such things.
There was a special exemption granted for the T/C Contender but you still couldn't have the gun configured with a buttstock and a short <16" barrel on the receiver at the same time.

 

[TxStetson]

As @Wiliamr posted above, make sure the barrel is actually 16" because 15-7/8" will get your ass in hot water.

 

[Moonpie]

As @Wiliamr posted above, make sure the barrel is actually 16" because 15-7/8" will get your ass in hot water.

This is correct.
Remember on a revolver the barrel STARTS at the face of the cylinder. Not at the back of the chamber.

 

[SQLGeek]

As a previous poster stated: You can convert a handgun into a rifle but not a rifle into a handgun.
In your case adding a should stock to your long barreled revolver should be fine.
Now as I understand it you CANNOT convert it back into a handgun. It must stay in longgun configuration once converted. In your case the 16" barrel is factory so IMO you're walking on the thin line with it.
Its a stupid rule but it is the rule and Mr.ATFman can be a dick about such things.
There was a special exemption granted for the T/C Contender but you still couldn't have the gun configured with a buttstock and a short <16" barrel on the receiver at the same time.

Disagree. He can convert it to a rifle and back to a pistol.

Can I lawfully make a pistol into a rifle without registering that firearm? | Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives

Assuming that the firearm was originally a pistol, the resulting firearm, with an attached shoulder stock, is not an NFA firearm if it has a barrel of 16 inches or more in length. Pursuant to ATF Ruling 2011-4, such rifle may later be unassembled and again configured as a pistol. Such...

www.atf.gov

Assuming that the firearm was originally a pistol, the resulting firearm, with an attached shoulder stock, is not an NFA firearm if it has a barrel of 16 inches or more in length.

Pursuant to ATF Ruling 2011-4, such rifle may later be unassembled and again configured as a pistol. Such configuration would not be considered a “weapon made from a rifle” as defined by 26 U.S.C. § 5845(a)(4).

[26 U.S.C. § 5845, 27 CFR § 479.11]

 

[Wolfwood]

Ok, so what do ya'll think? Should I make my own? Or buy one of these?

Maple rough rider stock

Maple rough rider stock

www.salemlakesarmory.com

 

[TexasRedneck]

Buy EEETTTTTTT!!!!!!

 

[Wolfwood]

i think i will do just that.

 

[Dawico]

Not worth the time to make your own for $70.

Go for it.

 

[Maverick44]

Ok, so what do ya'll think? Should I make my own? Or buy one of these?

Maple rough rider stock

Maple rough rider stock

www.salemlakesarmory.com

Not worth the time to make your own for $70.

Go for it.

Alright, I was going to go full OCD woodworker on that stock, but it came out sounding far harsher than I'd like. I'll just say that they look a bit rougher than they should be, and that given some time, you could probably make something nicer.

If you buy one, I would consider picking up a set of decent rasps, maybe a spokeshave, and a Shinto rasp and reprofiling the whole thing into something more refined. It's not hard to do, it just takes time and a little forethought into keeping everything symmetrical. Alternatively, you could probably fix the issues I see and really smooth out the profile of that stock with nothing more than a cheap rasp and some sandpaper (80, 120, 240, and 320 grits).

It's a cheap stock for a cheap gun. I don't know how much effort you want to put into it.

 

[Wolfwood]

oh i dont think those are "finished" when i saw them first thing i thought was a good sand/polish/stain was in order. hadn't really thought about changing the shape, but working it into a quasi kentucky long rifle stock would look awesome i think. would have to find a pattern or something as my artisitc skills are limited to say the least. id have trouble drawing an AR A2 style stock with a ruler, ive got a decent collection of sandpaper though.

lay the ocd on me bud i can take it. care to recommend some decent tools? maybe a little above harbor freight tier i really dont know what im looking for in a rasp and i probably should ruin another on the wife's cheese graters.

 

[Maverick44]

oh i dont think those are "finished" when i saw them first thing i thought was a good sand/polish/stain was in order. hadn't really thought about changing the shape, but working it into a quasi kentucky long rifle stock would look awesome i think. would have to find a pattern or something as my artisitc skills are limited to say the least. id have trouble drawing an AR A2 style stock with a ruler, ive got a decent collection of sandpaper though.

lay the ocd on me bud i can take it. care to recommend some decent tools? maybe a little above harbor freight tier i really dont know what im looking for in a rasp and i probably should ruin another on the wife's cheese graters.

Nicholson makes some good stuff, but their older stuff is a bit better. Narex makes a nice set that I've been eyeing. I have experience with their chisels, and they are incredibly good for the price. I've heard very good things about Iwasaka rasps too. They are a bit more than the Narex or Nicholson though. Those are all well above Harbor Freight quality, though Harbor freight quality might be all you need if this is a one time project. Those other ones are a bit pricy. Not horrible, but not $20 for a set either. Then again, they are far from costing what a high end rasp costs. Check out Auriou for that.

Amazon.com : nicholson rasp

Amazon product ASIN B01FPSDN4G

Amazon.com : iwasaki rasp

If you're wanting a step above Harbor Freight, I'd personally go with the Narex.

The Shinto rasp would probably be the most useful if you plan to do a complete reprofiling. They remove material quick. Picture a bunch of hacksaw blades crisscrossing and that's a Shinto rasp. They have a fine tooth side and a course tooth side on them. They're about $25 on Amazon.

Amazon product ASIN B004DIHDU0

For a flat spokeshave, Stanley is good. They're not very expensive, maybe like $30=$40. You can usually find vintage ones on Ebay pretty cheap. They are not completely necessary, though they will make life a bit easier. Rasps are going to leave a rough surface. A spokeshave is going to leave a mostly smooth one, and they are designed to get into those curves. One might prove useful in making it easier to smooth the profile of a curve, but 80 grit sandpaper, and sanding stick, and some elbow grease could easily replace one.

A jack plane like a Stanley No. 5 would probably be useful too, but you can definitely do this without it. It would be useful for getting the profile started from front to back and keeping it flat and straight. Think of the stock as not a curve, but a series of flats (looking from the butt end, it would be like a octagon). You establish those flats with a plane or the Shinto, and then keep taking the corners off of them until they are a curve. If that makes any sense. You can find old Stanley No.5 pretty much everywhere for cheap. Ebay is the easiest place. They sometime need a bit of TLC, but unless there are parts missing or the body of the plane is cracked, they can easily be made as good as new. Most antique shops will have a few, and they are a common sight at yard sales. Expect to pay anywhere from $5 to $40 for a good, well used one that might need a little work.

I'm hesitant on suggesting much more than this because I don't know how much work with wood you do, or whether this will be a one time project or not. It would be very easy to spend a couple hundred dollars on tools just for this one project. It doesn't make sense to buy a lot of nice tools if you're only going to use them once. At the bare minimum, I would get the Shinto Rasp and a cheap set of box store rasps. You can do a lot with just that. The spokeshave and the jack plane just makes things a bit easier. If you plan on getting only one of these, get the jack plane. Just make sure to keep it sharp.

I would watch some youtube videos on how to make a stock with handtools. It'll give you a better idea of what you're getting into and what you'll actually need.