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  • rotor

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    OK... got me some coming... Bore cleaner #4
    Got me some Chore Boy coming as well!

    Funny thing is.... I clean the barrel one time. Then jag until clean and the barrel looks clean. Then I go ahead and clean it again, jag til clean and it looks like I can see build-up on the rifling... Go figger!
    Wait until your Teslong scope comes in. You will really be surprised at what you see.
    Hurley's Gold
     

    Dougw1515

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    O'tay! I cleaned that barrel pretty much all day yesterday. Used 3-4 different bore cleaners, foamed it, soaked it, ultra-soniced it. Bore brushed it, polished it with brush wrapped in a patch with Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner. At times I'd think the black I'm seeing the interaction between the bore cleaner and the bore brush. This morning I was able to get a clean jag first pass though after using bore cleaner w/brass brush. With a magnifying glass I can not see any build up or pitting or residue of any kind. So... I think it's clean. It will be real interesting to see what the bore scope reveals when it get's here Monday.

    On a side note... I had one unopened box of Remington Thunderbolt ammo left. No, I didn't throw it in the trash but it was taken out of rotation. Guess I'll hang on to it just in case a situation comes up that I need to run off 500 rounds of trumbling, keyholin' .22 cal long rifle ammunition!!!!
     

    benenglish

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    Now that it's clean, you might want to consider this.

    Bore polishing is a controversial subject and I'm not going to argue with anyone over it. However, the few cases where I think it's a good idea tend to be when you run across a barrel that just seems to strip lead off projectiles and hold onto it, i.e. cases like the one you're describing.

    It's just a thought. A giant YMMV disclaimer should be understood.
     

    TreyG-20

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    I've heard that shooting copper between lead projectiles helps prevent barrels from leading. Say shoot 50 rounds of lead then a few copper to remove the lead. I have nothing to support this other than hearsay, but it makes since to me.

    ETA: If a barrel is severely leaded this maybe unsafe due to pressure increases.

    Also to note I know most .22lr will be copper plated and probably not as effective as a jacketed round. There are some solid copper projectiles for .22lr. That may be some thing to consider purchasing to help keep the leading down.
     
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    Dougw1515

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    Now that it's clean, you might want to consider this.

    Bore polishing is a controversial subject and I'm not going to argue with anyone over it. However, the few cases where I think it's a good idea tend to be when you run across a barrel that just seems to strip lead off projectiles and hold onto it, i.e. cases like the one you're describing.

    It's just a thought. A giant YMMV disclaimer should be understood.
    Yup... I'm aware of the drawbacks associated with polish/buffing bores. The link you provided indicated no more than "0.0003" metal removal. That's three ten thousands of an inch. I was using a patch and compound(for lack of a better term) I kinna suspect I wasn't anywhere near that amount of removal - if any at all. But I was concerned with it. Did a fair amount of research on lead removal and in a nutshell I found there's no, real good, safe method to remove lead from the bore. Some techniques are better/safer than others but best to prevent rather than correct.

    Rest assured I'm done with non copper coated .22lr ammunition. Right now I've got 1500 rounds of Aguila ammo that shot really good the last time I used it - which was before running 500 rounds of Thunderbolt though the gun. Also got 3300 rounds of Federal BlackPack that are copper coated. I've shot none of those but I suspect they'll do just fine. Also have a few boxes of CCi Quite-22 boasting a 710fps - but strangely enough they do not appear to be coated and for sure have no copper coating. For me, for the last 3-4 months CCi is near impossible to find. A couple of weeks ago I ran across some and was going to buy it but I'd already bought 3 boxes of 9mm and the checkout gal wouldn't let me buy the .22.
     

    wbblazer90

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    I didn't read all the replies, but did you try shooting without the laser? Wouldn't be unheard of for a cheap laser to not hold zero from a loose screw or otherwise. Be wary of gun store "gunsmiths". Not to say all aren't good, but how the heck can someone tell via visual inspection if a bore has weak rifling? Take that advice with a grain of salt. Lands and grooves certainly vary among calibers and manufacturers.

    I shoot lots of 22, use a good solvent like hoppes 9 and it should clean out much of the copper and lead residue in the bore.
     

    Dougw1515

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    I didn't read all the replies, but did you try shooting without the laser? Wouldn't be unheard of for a cheap laser to not hold zero from a loose screw or otherwise. Be wary of gun store "gunsmiths". Not to say all aren't good, but how the heck can someone tell via visual inspection if a bore has weak rifling? Take that advice with a grain of salt. Lands and grooves certainly vary among calibers and manufacturers.

    I shoot lots of 22, use a good solvent like hoppes 9 and it should clean out much of the copper and lead residue in the bore.
    Thanks! While certainly not the most expensive laser on the market the LaserMax Spartan rail mounted laser has a decent reputation and isn't necessarily cheap. I have one on the Ruger and one on my FNS-9C. Both have shot extremely well in the past and the FNS still does. Anyway... moving to the iron sights did not improve the situation. Buried in this thread is the determination that a lead fouled barrel was the culprit. Said culprit has been cleaned. Laser reinstalled and laser bore sited(?) in. Next range trip is Tuesday and we'll see what's what!
     

    Wiliamr

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    A black powder trick- wine bottle corks (REAL cork - not the plastic stuff being used a lot now) cut a couple pieces of cork to bore size and wet outside with toothpaste and run it down the bore. It WILL push out lead fouling. The toothpaste acts to cut the fouling and cork is really good at picking up tiny lead flakes.
     

    jrbfishn

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    A black powder trick- wine bottle corks (REAL cork - not the plastic stuff being used a lot now) cut a couple pieces of cork to bore size and wet outside with toothpaste and run it down the bore. It WILL push out lead fouling. The toothpaste acts to cut the fouling and cork is really good at picking up tiny lead flakes.
    I have heard of that before IF you can push it straight trough. The problem is getting something to cut the required size cork.

    Sent by an idjit coffeeholic from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     

    wbblazer90

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    Thanks! While certainly not the most expensive laser on the market the LaserMax Spartan rail mounted laser has a decent reputation and isn't necessarily cheap. I have one on the Ruger and one on my FNS-9C. Both have shot extremely well in the past and the FNS still does. Anyway... moving to the iron sights did not improve the situation. Buried in this thread is the determination that a lead fouled barrel was the culprit. Said culprit has been cleaned. Laser reinstalled and laser bore sited(?) in. Next range trip is Tuesday and we'll see what's what!

    I see. I'll mention this for educational purposes only, but I recommend you NOT do it yourself - some suppressor guys use the "dip" to clean carbon and lead fouling out of their stainless steel baffles. It is a 1:1 mixture of white vinegar and 70-90% hydrogen peroxide. The resultant chemical moiety is peracetic acid. It will make baffles (and stainless barrels) nearly spotless no matter how much lead fouling there is. HOWEVER, it also creates a highly toxic byproduct, lead acetate. Readily absorbed by the skin and lungs (by the fumes it creates) this biohazardous material can cause heavy metal poisoning.

    Now that you know, don't do it. But if there is a shop near you that uses it in proper facilities, maybe throw them a couple of bucks to let them dip the barrel in solution for when the fouling is really bad.
     

    Wolfwood

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    If you take any wood, rubber or polymer off you reckon you could dip a whole gun in that stuff and hit it with ultrasonic waves for a nice deep clean?

    Also this seems relevant.
     

    Dougw1515

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    I see. I'll mention this for educational purposes only, but I recommend you NOT do it yourself - some suppressor guys use the "dip" to clean carbon and lead fouling out of their stainless steel baffles. It is a 1:1 mixture of white vinegar and 70-90% hydrogen peroxide. The resultant chemical moiety is peracetic acid. It will make baffles (and stainless barrels) nearly spotless no matter how much lead fouling there is. HOWEVER, it also creates a highly toxic byproduct, lead acetate. Readily absorbed by the skin and lungs (by the fumes it creates) this biohazardous material can cause heavy metal poisoning.

    Now that you know, don't do it. But if there is a shop near you that uses it in proper facilities, maybe throw them a couple of bucks to let them dip the barrel in solution for when the fouling is really bad.
    Yup, read an article on that very solution. Guy did multiple test with carbon steel strips. His results, and conclusion, was that it corrodes the bore if it's used at an effective concentration level. From what I recall there was no effective time/concentration that was both effective and safe.

    If you take any wood, rubber or polymer off you reckon you could dip a whole gun in that stuff and hit it with ultrasonic waves for a nice deep clean?

    Also this seems relevant.

    I don't even take the polymer off. I pull the slide, put the frame/barrel/fire control goup(unassembled) in a plastic bag with sufficient bore cleaner to cover the barrel. Max time on my ultra-sonic cleaner is 8 minutes. Have run countless cycles in that manner to no benefit. You have to tear the SR22 completely down to end up with barrel only and I'm not interested in doing that at this time.

    Also what I have done is take a zip-loc bag, put the SR22 in it(sans slide) then pour enough mineral spirits in to cover every moving part. Then run that in the ultra-sonic cleaner. Once clean/dry I lubricate as per normal. I will say that made a huge difference in the trigger pull. It was a lot smoother and softer than before I cleaned it. One of these days I do a full disassembly but not today!
     

    Wiliamr

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    I have heard of that before IF you can push it straight trough. The problem is getting something to cut the required size cork.
    Sent by an idjit coffeeholic from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    In his case using a .223 case with the rim cut off and the mouth LIGHTLY sharpened then pressed into the cork will cut a perfect slightly oversize cork plug that will run through the barrel when on the end of a pointed jag. Oh make sure to use a wood block against the end of the now rimless case. no point in cutting the old hand to ribbons.
     

    Dougw1515

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    Got my bore scope yesterday! Took a look at the SR22 rifling. This is after more than a day of cleaning it up.

    The picture is at the end of the bore where the lead was really built up to the point of having lead fingers so to speak. I have scanned the entire bore and what's revealed in this picture is indicative of the condition of the entire barrel. I also scoped the P365 barrel and it shows some carbon still hanging around the corners of the rifling in some areas. Certainly not bad.

    SR22-eob.jpg
     

    jrbfishn

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    In his case using a .223 case with the rim cut off and the mouth LIGHTLY sharpened then pressed into the cork will cut a perfect slightly oversize cork plug that will run through the barrel when on the end of a pointed jag. Oh make sure to use a wood block against the end of the now rimless case. no point in cutting the old hand to ribbons.
    Forgot about this thread.
    I can see how that might work. Thanks.

    Sent by an idjit coffeeholic from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
     
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