NICE ! I have one too. this one is the 1985 Virginian Dragoon
Handgun Picture Thread
- Thread starter Texas1911
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Scooped up a robertson trading post grip adapter. It’s pretty much a Tyler T knockoff, only you don’t have to mail in a paper form with a check and then wait 9 months for it to show up with 0 communication in between.
Polished it with 400, 1000, 1500, wet sand, 2000, wet sand, and finished off with mothers mag polish.
Before
After
I like the look of it on my ratty model 10. I like a bit of contrast lol
Polished it with 400, 1000, 1500, wet sand, 2000, wet sand, and finished off with mothers mag polish.
Before
After
I like the look of it on my ratty model 10. I like a bit of contrast lol
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The little lady can't change where she was born. I've seen her in two series on Netflix, about two years ago.
This is her Makarov (9x18) handgun.
, pointed out for "the Unwashed" among us. 
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Time for another long winded essay to communicate what could easily be summed up in 2 to 3 sentences and one picture lol.
When I bought a police trade in FN Hi Power, I was lead to believe it would be a more modern production version in fair but beat-up condition, like this stock photo used on the website when I purchased it. For $650 before tax & shipping, how good could it possibly be?
What I got instead was a relatively clean (for a LE trade in, anyway) T Series with overall decent bluing and some black rubber / plastic grips.
I’ve since swapped the grips to some full checkered wooden ones that my FFL gave me for free, which he said he took off his SA35. They look very subtly different from the full checkered grips that came on my SA35, so I’m not sure if the origin is correct or if Springfield changed suppliers mid run, but they look good nonetheless.
Since it’s a imported LE trade in gun, it’s not worth nearly as much as a U.S. market T-Series from my understanding. Therefore, I’m not afraid to modify it.
After removing the mag disconnect safety, the trigger still has some creep and isn’t the most consistent between pulls. Sometimes there’s more pronounced and sudden creep, other times it’s a cleaner break.
I ordered a Cylinder & Slide no-bite hammer and EGW sear to remedy that, which I’ll have my gunsmith fit. The sights are also archaic, and I’d planned on having it cut for Heinie Ledge sights, with a plain rear and gold bead front.
However after taking it out to the range this past weekend and shooting some steel, I’ve realized that it doesn’t really need much changed at all. The gun clears a plate rack at 15-20 yards just fine and has no issues making consistent hits at a torso sized steel target at 50 yards.
The narrow front sight post coupled with the narrow notched rear sight aren’t as tedious to realign as I’d expected them to be after every shot, and the trigger creep isn’t noticeable during live fire and did not make it any more difficult to hit what I was aiming at. At this point there’s no need to do a trigger job, but I guess the no-bite hammer will lower the pucker factor of having to make sure the web of my hand doesn’t get too high up on the beavertail at the risk of hammer bite.
If I do end up changing anything else, it will probably be out of boredom and definitely not from necessity.
When I bought a police trade in FN Hi Power, I was lead to believe it would be a more modern production version in fair but beat-up condition, like this stock photo used on the website when I purchased it. For $650 before tax & shipping, how good could it possibly be?
What I got instead was a relatively clean (for a LE trade in, anyway) T Series with overall decent bluing and some black rubber / plastic grips.
I’ve since swapped the grips to some full checkered wooden ones that my FFL gave me for free, which he said he took off his SA35. They look very subtly different from the full checkered grips that came on my SA35, so I’m not sure if the origin is correct or if Springfield changed suppliers mid run, but they look good nonetheless.
Since it’s a imported LE trade in gun, it’s not worth nearly as much as a U.S. market T-Series from my understanding. Therefore, I’m not afraid to modify it.
After removing the mag disconnect safety, the trigger still has some creep and isn’t the most consistent between pulls. Sometimes there’s more pronounced and sudden creep, other times it’s a cleaner break.
I ordered a Cylinder & Slide no-bite hammer and EGW sear to remedy that, which I’ll have my gunsmith fit. The sights are also archaic, and I’d planned on having it cut for Heinie Ledge sights, with a plain rear and gold bead front.
However after taking it out to the range this past weekend and shooting some steel, I’ve realized that it doesn’t really need much changed at all. The gun clears a plate rack at 15-20 yards just fine and has no issues making consistent hits at a torso sized steel target at 50 yards.
The narrow front sight post coupled with the narrow notched rear sight aren’t as tedious to realign as I’d expected them to be after every shot, and the trigger creep isn’t noticeable during live fire and did not make it any more difficult to hit what I was aiming at. At this point there’s no need to do a trigger job, but I guess the no-bite hammer will lower the pucker factor of having to make sure the web of my hand doesn’t get too high up on the beavertail at the risk of hammer bite.
If I do end up changing anything else, it will probably be out of boredom and definitely not from necessity.
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Is yours zero'd at 100 yards like mine. I am at the head as normal sighting and it's head shot all day. 50 yards requires holds at bellybutton for head shot. Anything closed would be aiming at the toes.
6 and 10" barrels are the same at sighting on mine
PinnedandRecessed
Allegedly
I've owned two. The one I still own randomly likes to fling spent brass at my forehead. The other never did. Sometimes I'll wear googles so I don't chip my eyeglass lenses again.
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