Or the Fetzer valve...
Ford Electrical Problems
- Thread starter benenglish
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For the windows and wipers try some contact cleaner on them.
Youll need to pull the door panel and remove the switches to really get at um.
Pull the wheel and the bilnker stack and clean the rotary switch with it as well.
I got nothing on the other issues.
The battery disconnect may clear the lights but they will likely reappear.
Code puller may or may not indicate faults depends on if the related light is controlled by the ECM (eng control mod) if so the reader will detect the fault. If one of the many other computers on the car controls the system a hand code reader to the ecm will do nada.
It will need to be contacted to a true diagnostic system.
Elec issues are not my best friend on car fixing.
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Youll need to pull the door panel and remove the switches to really get at um.
Pull the wheel and the bilnker stack and clean the rotary switch with it as well.
I got nothing on the other issues.
The battery disconnect may clear the lights but they will likely reappear.
Code puller may or may not indicate faults depends on if the related light is controlled by the ECM (eng control mod) if so the reader will detect the fault. If one of the many other computers on the car controls the system a hand code reader to the ecm will do nada.
It will need to be contacted to a true diagnostic system.
Elec issues are not my best friend on car fixing.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had that sort of problems on a GMC truck. After a bit of research I found that there were power surges (that GM knew about) that were causing issues with the several computers in the vehicle. My dashboard died twice. Dealer wanted $800 to fix. I found out where they sent the boards for repair (NJ) and got it done for $150. Then I found a guy in Conroe who fixes them on site for $80. Apparently there's a lot of money to be made in electrical issues. CD player never worked right. After a thunderstorm, everything would reset, including the stations programmed on the radio.
One of the windows wouldn't work right. They tested the motor and the switches and all was good. Problem turned out to be a bad connection internally in the fuse box. Cost to replace: $1200. Mechanic showed me an alternative: a piece of wire that jumpered power to the right place. Cost: $0.01.
I've had Fords since then and haven't seen any electrical problems except that the newer ones won't let you install a device to avoid having to hit the switch to prevent the engine from shutting down when you're stopped in traffic, and it won't accept extra lights connected to the tail lights.
One of the windows wouldn't work right. They tested the motor and the switches and all was good. Problem turned out to be a bad connection internally in the fuse box. Cost to replace: $1200. Mechanic showed me an alternative: a piece of wire that jumpered power to the right place. Cost: $0.01.
I've had Fords since then and haven't seen any electrical problems except that the newer ones won't let you install a device to avoid having to hit the switch to prevent the engine from shutting down when you're stopped in traffic, and it won't accept extra lights connected to the tail lights.
We are in complete agreement. I'm sure my dad, the electronics engineer now residing in Heaven, weeps for my incompetence.
One thing I can attest as a long time FORD guy. FORD tends to use some weird wiring commonality.
Example on 93-95 vintage F150s the cruise will go inop if the clock spring (which controls the blinkers and horn) fails.
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Shared powers and grounds can do funny things. I once resolved a dead turn signal issue by removing a faulty intermittent wiper module. I've never heard of anyone experiencing a similar fault, and I know hundreds of people with the same car.
Was going to say exactly all of that.
It could be the issues are unrelated... A bi-directional scanner that can talk to the Ford modules would be helpful. Your mechanic should have a pro scanner that does that.
If it is some random electrical issue, they are going to have to break out the wiring diagram and start tracing things. Could end up in enough troubleshooting hours to buy another 2009 Grand Marquis.
Which is exactly why I dumped the LTD I once had.
I agree with a bad ground or battery. I've even had a negative battery cable corrode on the inside (bend it, it feels crunchy) create similar issues. Load test the battery, I had one go bad once and the power door locks would randomly try to lock/unlock. A Solar BA7 or similar tool can easily load test CA, CCA and your charging system.
The good thing about the internet, usually a forum can be found where common/similar issues for your vehicle have been posted if it's at least a couple of years old but I assume you've searched. I probably diagnosed/fixed 20 issues on my neighbors Altima through one forum alone.
The good thing about the internet, usually a forum can be found where common/similar issues for your vehicle have been posted if it's at least a couple of years old but I assume you've searched. I probably diagnosed/fixed 20 issues on my neighbors Altima through one forum alone.
Cranked the car this morning. All was normal. No extra dash lights.
Pulled out of my driveway and drove 10 yards. All the extra dash lights came back on.
A half mile further, the ABS and parking brake lights go out. 5 seconds later, the last light goes out.
All lights stayed off while running errands, after a couple of re-starts, through to when I got home.
Intermittent electrical problems are such a PITA.
If you're gonna break, then break and stay broken so I can figure it out!
Pulled out of my driveway and drove 10 yards. All the extra dash lights came back on.
A half mile further, the ABS and parking brake lights go out. 5 seconds later, the last light goes out.
All lights stayed off while running errands, after a couple of re-starts, through to when I got home.
Intermittent electrical problems are such a PITA.
If you're gonna break, then break and stay broken so I can figure it out!
I am certainly no help. As a long time chevy owner/driver I have always considered it slightly miraculous if the gas gauge and speedometer are working simultaneously after 3 years. Thought I would break that chain the other day when we went to look at a used Nissan and doggone it, we bought another chevy based on cabin comfort.
Solved my Ford problem with a Toyota
I'm gonna do the basics first. Clean all battery terminal connections, check engine ground wire, check ground wires in general. Don't just look at them, remove, clean, apply dielectric grease and reinstall. Pull apart, apply dielectric and reinstall all primary wiring harnesses. Just the act of removing/reinstalling will generally clean a dirty terminal enough for it to work properly.
It's "reading" like a loose/bad connection to me.
The window/door might be an unrelated issue - the main control module is usually the one on the drivers side door - plug/unplug the connector and see if it corrects it.
If the above doesn't fix the issue, then yeah - take it to a GOOD shop with a scanner and have them see what's happening - it'll be cheaper in the long run, IMO.
It's "reading" like a loose/bad connection to me.
The window/door might be an unrelated issue - the main control module is usually the one on the drivers side door - plug/unplug the connector and see if it corrects it.
If the above doesn't fix the issue, then yeah - take it to a GOOD shop with a scanner and have them see what's happening - it'll be cheaper in the long run, IMO.
And the damned thing will work perfectly while it's there and quit before you get 5 miles down the road.
A coworker of mine had several electrical issues with her G-ride. She opened the hood to take a look and a squirrel came out from under there somewhere. It had chewed many of the wires here and there. Caused a lot of shorts and a big bill to fix. You just gotta stop putting peanut butter on the wires, rub them down with habaneros instead.
I fixed my Ford problems by purchasing Toyota’s. I haven’t had a issues with a vehicle for many years. The problem sounds like a wire has rubbed through in the door harness. Ford runs all kinds of things into that driver door. I built a 64 f100 with a 2011 police Crown Vic complete chassis. I used all the wiring for the Vic, and remember thinking what ever Ford engineer thought it would be a good idea to run all them wires for the ignition into the door needs to be beat with a wet hose.
I think a few members have offered some decent advice. However, spending my last 25 years fixing cars professionally I can tell you intermittents are the worst. Your power window issue is most likely a window lift motor starting to fail. One smart thing American auto makers like to do is use a self resetting circuit breaker. When the motor draws too much you get nothing, then a few minutes later, normal operation. It is like a fuse that pops and then fixes itself. Frequent failure indicates lift motor issues. Although a finiky switch is a possibility too.
