To the best of my knowledge, any coloring you can do in your forge or kiln will wear from sheth use. Especially a kydex sheath.
Might also look into the rust bluing process. Pretty low on required equipment and chemicals.I'm trying to restrict my options to stuff I can actually do in my forge...without any chemical tanks. Which counts Parkerizing out. And from what I understand of the method, case hardening isn't ideal for blades - it creates a hardened outer layer but leaves the interior soft, while my goal with the blades is to harden the entire blade while making it flexible. A case hardened blade would be too brittle, if I'm understanding the process.
Oil bluing might be the solution - and it happens automatically when I quench a blade anyway - but I'm not sure how durable the resulting black finish is on a smooth blade. And I don't want a finish that'll wear off with reasonable sheath wear.
Might also look into the rust bluing process. Pretty low on required equipment and chemicals.
New season of Forged in Fire starts tonight.
That right there may be a viable option. I'd forgotten rust bluing was a thing.
So this project is like the opposite of the "Bone Chopper" you made for Hoji?OK, guys. I won't lie, the thought of quenching this tiny, thin blade has given me serious anxiety over the past few weeks. With steel this thin, there is a high likelihood of the quench oil causing the beveled edge to ripple like a piece of bacon, which would trash all of the effort I've put into forging and shaping it. There's also a high likelihood of a thin piece like this curving in the quench (even a good, beefy blade can curve when it hits the oil). But, I did it.
Heating the blade up to critical temperature (1500°F) took...less than a minute. Which is ridiculous, and made me worry even more. It usually takes several minutes to reach that temperature, but the pale red glow didn't lie. I pulled it out of the forge and checked, and the blade bounced right off a neodymium magnet, which told me we were there. I immediately quenched in oil.
Moment of truth...I gritted my teeth, pulled the blade out and was greeted by...perfection. It was straight and even. I ran a file across the edge and it skated right off - the steel was hardened. I went ahead and clamped it just in case there was a chance of uneven cooling warping the blade, but my heart was pounding with relief. Right now, I'mbaking a caketempering the blade at 400° in the oven. That'll go for the next four hours or so. Meanwhile, I give you... @glenbo 's blade after quenching and a quick wipedown.
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So this project is like the opposite of the "Bone Chopper" you made for Hoji?
You could leave the colors on the file work and handle.
Glad it came out good for you.
Now get it finished so we can see the finised knife.
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That looks AMAZING!Allllllll RIGHT!!!
All that's left is making the sheath. @glenbo - do you want black or brown leather?
Here's the beauty shots, plus one with a ruler so you can see how TINY this little guy is.
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Overall, about 5" long. Smallest blade I've ever forged. Damn near lost it in the workshop at least six times.
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A job very well done, me thinks.Allllllll RIGHT!!!
All that's left is making the sheath. @glenbo - do you want black or brown leather?
Here's the beauty shots, plus one with a ruler so you can see how TINY this little guy is.
View attachment 479777
View attachment 479778View attachment 479779
Overall, about 5" long. Smallest blade I've ever forged. Damn near lost it in the workshop at least six times.
View attachment 479780
Very nice little knife. I like.
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