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  • TEXAS "All or nothing"

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    ideas or suggestions on how to install a cf barrel without scuffing it up.

    list of what I do have for the build,
    barrel vise
    receiver block/wrench
    barrel nut wrench
    headspace gauges
    recoil lug

    if I use tape/leather or some sort'a wrap around the barrel where the vise makes contact I'm guessing could be good? there's not enough room at the breach side for the vise, so I'm needing to clamp onto the cf. I'm trying to keep the receiver and barrel from moving when tightening to barrel nut.
    Lynx Defense
     

    V-Tach

    Watching While the Sheep Graze
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    I don't have any experience with CF barrels. You could sprinkle some powdered rosin to the leather to add gripping power........
     

    Bamban

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    Nov 1, 2015
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    ideas or suggestions on how to install a cf barrel without scuffing it up.

    list of what I do have for the build,
    barrel vise
    receiver block/wrench
    barrel nut wrench
    headspace gauges
    recoil lug

    if I use tape/leather or some sort'a wrap around the barrel where the vise makes contact I'm guessing could be good? there's not enough room at the breach side for the vise, so I'm needing to clamp onto the cf. I'm trying to keep the receiver and barrel from moving when tightening to barrel nut.

    I modified the top plates on my barrel vises. Did it not specifically for CF barrel, though I chambered and installed a couple of CF barrels on my hunting rifles. I modified these to get a better grip on factory installed barrels, the 700s in most cases.

    The split top and elongated holes allowed the top plates to follow sporter barrel contours. Plus, in effect there are two vises clamping on the barrel. My friends with stubborn barrels come over to unscrew their barrels. With no heroics like heat, we have yet to encounter a barrel that did not unscrew with one whack on the clamp on action wrench.

    Back to the CF, one small top plate is enough to provide sufficient clamping force to torque the action to the barrel. Wrap the SS barrel shank with thick dry wall float tape.

    If your SS shank is still narrower than the half plate, just get you a thick aluminum bar stock, drill the holes. Still wrap the SS shank with thick paper enough to avoid contact between the bottom plate and CF material. A couple or three wraps usually does it.

    20230120_230614.jpg
    20230120_230903.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    Txhillbilly

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    If you are installing a barrel that uses a barrel nut, then all you'll need is an action wrench and a barrel nut wrench.
    There is no need for you to hold the barrel in place.
    (1) Just install the barrel nut on the barrel along with your recoil lug, then screw the barrel into the action.
    (2) Insert the GO gauge into the chamber, close the bolt, and screw the barrel until it stops. Make sure your recoil lug is lined up on the action.
    Then insert the NO GO gauge and make sure your bolt won't close on it.
    (3) I always wrap the action with blue painters tape to keep it from getting marred up from the action wrench. Install the action wrench on the action and mount it in a vise if you have one, if not, just lay the barreled action on a solid bench and tighten the barrel nut with the wrench and then give it a whack with a rubber mallet unless you really want to torque it to a certain spec.

    I've been swapping custom barrel's on Savage and Remington action's for many years, as well as building all of my custom action rifle's, and have never used a torque wrench on them, nor have I ever had a barrel come loose.

    6bjON2O.jpg


    rFQttru.jpg


    maSplN7.jpg
     

    TEXAS "All or nothing"

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    Here's what I'm working with
    Headspace gauges aren't pictured, but do have both
     

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    TEXAS "All or nothing"

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    I will need to remove pic rail so I can get a better grip on the nut and also need to remove it if using the receiver clamp/vise. I need to remove the rail regardless for install. I do have tape of various kinds (joint/painters) and even leather if needed.
    build:
    savage 110 action
    woox stock/chassis
    c6 30" barrel 300wm w/ 9t
    mag box..3.850", so plenty of room


    Other than getting a bigger cartridge (30nos, 300rum, 30-378wby, 300nm, 300lm) I just went longer.
    Hoping to get 2,900-3,000fps for 210-240gr bullets.
    bullet list
    Hornady...(close enough to 210) 208eld-m, 220eld-x, 225 eld-m & bthp
    Sierra....210 & 240smk
    Nosler....210ablr
    Berger.......215 & 230hyb-tgt

    I guess I'll see where the road takes me?
     

    Txhillbilly

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    Depending on the type of recoil lug you bought, you may need to relief the action wrench a little in order for it to fit into the slot on the action. A round file or dremel tool will do it pretty quick.

    eeUgzhY.jpg


    I have a Woox Exactus stock on one of my custom action rifles. I like it, but you need to take the fore end off of it and epoxy the small aluminum spigot that it mounts on into the main chassis body or the fore end will start moving up / down because whomever designed it was an idiot. It is held on by 2 small screws on the side of it, and the spigot has nothing to support it on the top and bottom.
    My fore end started moving up / down the very first time I went shooting with it. I epoxied the spigot into the square hole it goes into the main chassis and it hasn't move since.

    Y8Xm2v6.jpg
     

    TEXAS "All or nothing"

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    The area where the P is at would hold the fore end on tighter if there was a screw in this location going into the receiver plate. And/or 2 screws (1 on each side) of fore end just behind the 2 screws that hold on the spigot. The circled area in the 2nd pic is a possible location, but for a better more secure for end 1 underneath could be a better choice.
     

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    Last edited:

    Bamban

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    Nov 1, 2015
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    Anderson Mill Area
    I will need to remove pic rail so I can get a better grip on the nut and also need to remove it if using the receiver clamp/vise. I need to remove the rail regardless for install. I do have tape of various kinds (joint/painters) and even leather if needed.
    build:
    savage 110 action
    woox stock/chassis
    c6 30" barrel 300wm w/ 9t
    mag box..3.850", so plenty of room


    Other than getting a bigger cartridge (30nos, 300rum, 30-378wby, 300nm, 300lm) I just went longer.
    Hoping to get 2,900-3,000fps for 210-240gr bullets.
    bullet list
    Hornady...(close enough to 210) 208eld-m, 220eld-x, 225 eld-m & bthp
    Sierra....210 & 240smk
    Nosler....210ablr
    Berger.......215 & 230hyb-tgt

    I guess I'll see where the road takes me?

    3000 with 215 Hybrids is easy button with your 30 inch tube. I have a couple of 300WMs with 26 inch barrels, one fluted and one Bartlein CF, I am getting a little over 3K with N570 loaded long utilizing Wyatt mag box.

    Have fun and good luck with your build.
     
    Last edited:

    Txhillbilly

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    Aug 2, 2008
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    North Texas
    The area where the P is at would hold the fore end on tighter if there was a screw in this location going into the receiver plate. And/or 2 screws (1 on each side) of fore end just behind the 2 screws that hold on the spigot. The circled area in the 2nd pic is a possible location, but for a better more secure for end 1 underneath could be a better choice.

    I thought about drilling and tapping a vertical hole in that area and using a set screw to support it better, but since there was so much slop / clearance between the main chassis and the spigot that the fore end bolts too, I figured that using epoxy to fill the void would be an easier / quicker fix.
     

    TEXAS "All or nothing"

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    I thought about drilling and tapping a vertical hole in that area and using a set screw to support it better, but since there was so much slop / clearance between the main chassis and the spigot that the fore end bolts too, I figured that using epoxy to fill the void would be an easier / quicker fix.
    So, you're epoxying the spigot on (inside where it fits) or around the outside area?
     

    TEXAS "All or nothing"

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    Even though there's the possibility of it moving/shifting again, I disassembled and reassembled in a manner where it's tight (doesn't move with body weight of force against a fixed bench). Most likely I'll epoxy also for good measure.
     
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