cf barrel

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

The area where the P is at would hold the fore end on tighter if there was a screw in this location going into the receiver plate. And/or 2 screws (1 on each side) of fore end just behind the 2 screws that hold on the spigot. The circled area in the 2nd pic is a possible location, but for a better more secure for end 1 underneath could be a better choice.

 

[Bamban]

I will need to remove pic rail so I can get a better grip on the nut and also need to remove it if using the receiver clamp/vise. I need to remove the rail regardless for install. I do have tape of various kinds (joint/painters) and even leather if needed.
build:
savage 110 action
woox stock/chassis
c6 30" barrel 300wm w/ 9t
mag box..3.850", so plenty of room


Other than getting a bigger cartridge (30nos, 300rum, 30-378wby, 300nm, 300lm) I just went longer.
Hoping to get 2,900-3,000fps for 210-240gr bullets.
bullet list
Hornady...(close enough to 210) 208eld-m, 220eld-x, 225 eld-m & bthp
Sierra....210 & 240smk
Nosler....210ablr
Berger.......215 & 230hyb-tgt

I guess I'll see where the road takes me?

3000 with 215 Hybrids is easy button with your 30 inch tube. I have a couple of 300WMs with 26 inch barrels, one fluted and one Bartlein CF, I am getting a little over 3K with N570 loaded long utilizing Wyatt mag box.

Have fun and good luck with your build.

 

[Txhillbilly]

The area where the P is at would hold the fore end on tighter if there was a screw in this location going into the receiver plate. And/or 2 screws (1 on each side) of fore end just behind the 2 screws that hold on the spigot. The circled area in the 2nd pic is a possible location, but for a better more secure for end 1 underneath could be a better choice.

I thought about drilling and tapping a vertical hole in that area and using a set screw to support it better, but since there was so much slop / clearance between the main chassis and the spigot that the fore end bolts too, I figured that using epoxy to fill the void would be an easier / quicker fix.

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

I thought about drilling and tapping a vertical hole in that area and using a set screw to support it better, but since there was so much slop / clearance between the main chassis and the spigot that the fore end bolts too, I figured that using epoxy to fill the void would be an easier / quicker fix.

So, you're epoxying the spigot on (inside where it fits) or around the outside area?

 

[Txhillbilly]

Inside the main chassis where the spigot goes. It doesn't take much epoxy to do the job.

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

Even though there's the possibility of it moving/shifting again, I disassembled and reassembled in a manner where it's tight (doesn't move with body weight of force against a fixed bench). Most likely I'll epoxy also for good measure.

 

[TEXAS "All or nothing"]

Inside the main chassis where the spigot goes. It doesn't take much epoxy to do the job.

BTW, thanks for the heads up!