WTS Car trouble sale, need some cash, buy my stuff.

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  • JColumbus

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    Jun 28, 2012
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    Hey fellas, the periodic unfortunate has happened so just trying to raise a few bucks. Here's what I got.

    FullSizeRender 6.jpeg





    Trigger: $140 shipped (https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http...DEtSUa1VK-5UmbQwr6a1FmwYR3iQgCmvRRDYsX5kK2rZo)

    AK Rail: $70 shipped (https://www.the-armory.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/utg-ak-47-top-rail-rear-sight.html)

    Red Dot: $150 shipped (Swampfox Justice with Ironside - https://www.swampfoxoptics.com/liberty-justice)

    Belt: $60 shipped (Knockoff Ronin though identical to my genuine. High quality - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1668249606...bUSk5zBX88spgvbqPBGqPC4/BmQ=|tkp:BFBM_LLKiqlk)



    I prefer paypal FnF but can accept cashapp. Please text 915 790 6771 for any questions or picture requests. God bless you and yours and have a great day.
     

    JColumbus

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    What kind of car trouble ya got? I own a mobile auto repair company and I'm happy to offer up some free advice. PM me any details you care to share.
    Hey I appreciate you reaching out. I have engine knocking on my 99XJ and I know it is either skirt slap, or possible early rod knock. Gotta take it in to get an exact diagnostic but there wasn't shards in the oil pan so it's in early stages. Luckily these engines are easy to repair and rebuild and I can get a rebuild kit for about 500 and rebuild it my self so I just need to sell some crap.

    I'd be happy to share any further details and hear your opinion. I have video of the sound if you want to take a listen. Whatever the case, thank you so much for the consideration and offer to help. Guys like you make this community what it is.
     

    TexMex247

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    Leander(NW Austin)
    Well it sounds like you're on the right track. Sometimes I'll use a mechanics stethoscope to isolate the noise to top or bottom end. If it's got high mileage and low end knock there's not going to be an easy fix. The 4.0 is pretty damn easy to work on. Just make sure you address any wear to the crank before just throwing bearings at it, if it's not a piston related noise. You can also kill cylinders one by one piercing the boot at the distributor with a test light. If killing a cylinder amplifies the noise it probably means the the opposing cylinder is the culprit.

    You're just increasing the load on it by killing the opposite one on the crank. So it's doing the work for both. Anyhow. GLWS sale here but it sounds like you're on top of it. If you need any torque specs, etc. I can pull them from my database(Mitchell information systems) and email or text you info.
     

    JColumbus

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    Well it sounds like you're on the right track. Sometimes I'll use a mechanics stethoscope to isolate the noise to top or bottom end. If it's got high mileage and low end knock there's not going to be an easy fix. The 4.0 is pretty damn easy to work on. Just make sure you address any wear to the crank before just throwing bearings at it, if it's not a piston related noise. You can also kill cylinders one by one piercing the boot at the distributor with a test light. If killing a cylinder amplifies the noise it probably means the the opposing cylinder is the culprit.

    You're just increasing the load on it by killing the opposite one on the crank. So it's doing the work for both. Anyhow. GLWS sale here but it sounds like you're on top of it. If you need any torque specs, etc. I can pull them from my database(Mitchell information systems) and email or text you info.
    Look, my friend. I'm not sure why you're being so damn amazing to me, but I stopped kissing men years ago. So all of this buttering me up is gonna get you nowhere. HAHAHA.

    On as serious note, thank you so much, brother. That is some extremely useful information that all of my research has yet to uncover anywhere else. I didn't know you could do that with the cylinders and now I'm excited to try it. Fortunately, it's only at about 180K miles which, as I'm sure you now, is still pretty low for these engines. It was running beautifully, sounded great and all of a sudden it just started. So I do believe it's an isolated issue.

    I presume you don't live in EP cause seemingly nobody here does but if you did, I'd definitely be in line for your services. I think I'll do what you posted above, tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks again.

    Video...

     
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    TexMex247

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    Ya that's pretty rowdy. Sounds like typical oil depravation damage to me. If that's the case it's imperative to thoroughly clean all oil passages and potentially change the oil pump. It sounds like a rod knock, wrist pin usually a lot more subtle. May have spun a main bearing. If so it interrupts oil flow enough to eat things up pretty quickly. Surprised there's nothing chunky in the oil. Try using a paint filter/funnel when you drain it, non magnetic metallics almost always bearing material.

    You can also pull the valve cover to inspect rockers as you turn the crank by hand. It may have collapsed a lifter and it's all pushrod noise but if so, it will throw it soon. Look for really loose pushrod, that will indicate a flattened cam lobe or collapsed lifter. Lot of possibilities there. None of them all that cheap to deal with
     

    JColumbus

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    Ya that's pretty rowdy. Sounds like typical oil depravation damage to me. If that's the case it's imperative to thoroughly clean all oil passages and potentially change the oil pump. It sounds like a rod knock, wrist pin usually a lot more subtle. May have spun a main bearing. If so it interrupts oil flow enough to eat things up pretty quickly. Surprised there's nothing chunky in the oil. Try using a paint filter/funnel when you drain it, non magnetic metallics almost always bearing material.

    You can also pull the valve cover to inspect rockers as you turn the crank by hand. It may have collapsed a lifter and it's all pushrod noise but if so, it will throw it soon. Look for really loose pushrod, that will indicate a flattened cam lobe or collapsed lifter. Lot of possibilities there. None of them all that cheap to deal with

    First of all real quick, only reason I haven't PMed you is that this is a wealth of knowledge and I'd like it to be public for anyone who comes across it. I know a Google search for something similar may pull this up and even if the person doesn't like guns, they're gun uh like your info.

    As to the oil dep, no way man this is my space ship. I take care of it better than my liver hahaha. So no definitely not that. I dropped the whole pan and not even any glitter. For now, I put 15w40 with rotella to help it take longer to blow. Also treated it to clean it up a bit. I will do everything you stated in this last post and post back. Gonna have to be tomorrow. I've heard it could be lifters but I really doubt it. However, from how you're explaining it, that would explain the sudden wasn't here last night here this morning crap. Like it was literally just bang hello.

    When I first noticed it I poured some oil treatment in it and it went away the next crank so I shut it off and that night when I left it was back. Not sure what that says if anything. Luckily, I see motors up with low miles (under 200k is low to me, for this engine) often for around 800 and although that's pretty big money to me, I can sell a gun so I'm not too worried. Heck, I might get lucky and be forced to by an engine with a manual transmission. If that's the case, I HOPE I throw a rod.

    Thanks again brother.
     

    TexMex247

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    You got it. With oil depravation it doesn't always mean you let it run dry so much as it had a pressure issue or restriction in the flow through the engine. Of course, you should have seen an oil pressure warning light if it was the pump or extremely low volume.

    Every once and a while it's just that time and mechanical things fail. If you're ok with getting your hands dirty, there's a lot you can explore on your own with that engine. Kudos for getting to where you're at with it so far, I hope your sweat equity pays off, if nothing else you'll know that motor inside out when you're done.
     
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