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80% “Glock”

Discussion in 'Handguns' started by CodyK, Jan 8, 2020.

  1. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    I’m gonna keep working to get it right, but I’m also wondering if a lighter recoil spring may help. The problem now is that the slide is not cycling back far enough to load the next round completely. On the 147 grain i can get 6-7 rounds in a row before a failure to feed, if I switch back to 115 grain, it won’t even eject the spent casing. I’m gonna sand and smooth the channel some more but I can’t feel a hang up anywhere when racking it so I’m not sure if that’s the issue or not.


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  2. Geezer

    Geezer Available For Parties TGT Supporter

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    The first one that I built I couldn't find any hang up when I worked the slide by hand. After I removed more material from the recoil spring channel it actually felt smoother. Mine would do the same thing, run a few rounds and then fail to feed. Once I opened the channel up, it hasn't missed a beat.

    I could put a factory Glock 19 or Glock 23 upper on it and it would run like poop through goose. The aftermarket recoil spring had just a little larger diameter than the factory spring. Hang in there, you're almost there.
     
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  3. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    Houston
    Is there a risk of taking too much out of the channel? I went down to the lines that they had marked, so it’s level with the bottom at the back and there is a small lip at the front. I thought about taking that lip off because it doesn’t seem that it would hurt anything, but I don’t want to take it all the way down and then ruin the frame.


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  4. Geezer

    Geezer Available For Parties TGT Supporter

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    I don't think you can take too much out, within reason. Did you take the barrel and spring out and see how the slide felt on the frame? I'm betting that if you open that channel a little more your problem will go away.
     
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  5. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    Houston
    I’m gonna try to open the channel some more. I’ve got my rails polished and the slide will slide on easy when they are out of the frame. When I put them in the frame I think it squeezes the bottom so much the top flares out and makes it tight. May take a little material out of the slot where rails sit also so they’re not so tight in there that it squeezes them. THIS GUN WILL WORK!!


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  6. Kar98

    Kar98 TGT Addict

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    Gotta admire a feller's enthusiasm and optimism!
     
  7. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    Houston
    You notice I said “this gun will work” I never said “this gun will fire”! If all else fails I’m gonna tie a leather strap to the back so I can swing it around and knock the bad guys over the head!


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  8. Geezer

    Geezer Available For Parties TGT Supporter

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    @CodyK , you are almost there. From what I've read in this thread, you have had little to no experience with the Glocks and their innards. You have done very well, in my opinion. You'll get it up and running.
    I got my first Glock in 1990 and have had several dozen over the years. I do not claim to be an expert on Glocks but I can strip one completely and reassemble it. I'm the guy that my friends call if they have a problem. I have one buddy that calls me the Glock Whisperer. Haha That said, I had a hiccup or two on my first 80% build.
     
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  9. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    I’m out of ideas! Emailed Polymer80 and sent some pics. We will see what they have to say. For some reason when I insert the front rail module into the frame, even just start it in, the slide starts to get hung up. Only thing I can think of is, they’re so tight in the frame that it’s bowing them out. But I don’t want to take a bunch of material out of the slot where they are supposed to go, because they have to be a little snug or else I’m gonna have another issue. I have assembled, dis-assembled, sanded, polished, measured, checked hole alignment in jig, and anything else I can think of, if P80 can’t help me, I’m not sure what to do next.


    Edit: Just checked my email and Polymer 80 is sending another front locking block. Hopefully that’s the problem.

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
  10. CyberWolf

    CyberWolf Active Member

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    Just wanted to say stick with it and don't give up...

    I'm coming to the conclusion that while the
    p80 polymer parts are solid and consistent, whoever they're sourcing the metal parts from has some piss-poor machining tolerances/consistency and quality control. (hopefully someone from p80 reads this and takes note; would be awesome if that was addressed).

    Just finished a long-slide build and ran into an almost identical issue with the locking block rails. Nice and smooth now, but spent about 75% of the build-time slowly reducing the width of front-rails (performed with locking block/pins mounted in frame)
     


    Last edited: Feb 6, 2020

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