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80% “Glock”

Discussion in 'Handguns' started by CodyK, Jan 8, 2020.

  1. zaitcev

    zaitcev Member

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    Yes, I understand that they are too thick or too wide now. I'm just addressing OMFS' concern about grinding them too thin.
     


  2. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    I probably should have just bought a Glock! I watched too many damn videos of people flying through the build with a drill, throwing it together and everything working fine. I figured if I took my time, checked and double checked everything, that I would be ok. For the life of me I can’t figure out what the hell i have done wrong. But I guess if the rails won’t fit in the slide then it’s the wrong rails or wrong slide. Hopefully I’ll get at least some kind of answer tomorrow.


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  3. CyberWolf

    CyberWolf Active Member

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    ^You chose an ambitious starter project, which I respect, but it's far from the path of least resistance.

    Looks like you at least ordered the correct parts (assuming that's what shipped).


    ^this appears to reinforce my earlier guess that your drilled holes (at least one) is slightly off - keep in mind we're talking thousandths of an inch, which is why they can easily look correct but still be off.

    Other possibility is the block is out of spec, but the pic seems to show the rear locking block pin hole a hair lower than I would expect it to be. The front hole is machined at the factory, and is much more likely to be true than the self-drilled rear hole.

    If the rear hole is just a tiny bit too low, then when the rear pin is inserted, it will pull the block down too far and shift the plane of the front rail - in this case, likely just enough to prevent the slide moving backwards. The grinding is likely from the front rails rubbing on the slide with increased friction as the slide is being pushed up by the rear of the frame due to the small angle shift in the plane of the front rail.

    Possible way to check if rails or hole is out of spec would be: does front rail cam-down in the back when the trigger pin is inserted but without the rear locking block pin? Are the trigger amd rear locking block pins easy to insert, or does whichever is inserted second take a bit of force?

    If the trigger pin does not force the rail down, but the rear locking block pin does and is difficult to insert after trigger pin, then your driled holes are likely off.


    If either trigger or rear locking block pin forces the rear of the block down, and both go in with same resistance, then your block is likely out of spec and needs to be replaced...

    Just my .02
     
  4. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    The “high tech fanagaling” was me using my hand to squeeze the rails/locking block together a smidge so they will slide onto the slide. Problem is, I’m trying not to bend them completely out of shape which is the point if no return. The slide won’t even start to go over the front locking block to even test if the rear rails are high or low now


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  5. zaitcev

    zaitcev Member

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    It pretty much how it was for me: everything fit well and worked perfectly. Since I used a pocket knife for real, and I didn't have a steady hand of a real craftsman, I made accidental cuts that are visible from the outside. I smoothed them up, so they don't create a stress focus and prompt cracks. But the fit was fine.

    That said, I always considered any 80% project adventures where the road is the goal, not the destination. Of course you should have bought a factory-completed gun if you just wanted a gun.
     
  6. zaitcev

    zaitcev Member

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    Austin, Texas, U.S.A.
    Well, that's true. The rear rails have to be level, too.

    BTW, as far as the thickness goes, one can always measure them with calipers. The front rails are part of the honest Glock-made locking block. So, just measure how thick _those_ rails are, and compare with the rear. That should set mind at peace about filing or grinding.
     
  7. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    I just left the gun store that specializes in Glocks and P80 kits and we tried several GEN three slides and none of them would go on my rails. As I left I called P80 and they told me I need to just keep sanding on them a little bit at a time until my slide went on.


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  8. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    Ok. I think it’s ready for another test at the range. Took all the coating off the front locking block/rails and polished the hell out of them (Polymer 80 recommended sanding them down until they fit correctly) After a lot of work they finally would go onto the slide. So I put everything back together and they were tight again! Took it all apart again and polished some more and took a look inside the channels where the locking block sits. I knew they were tight going in, but they’re supposed to be, but there were some high spots in there that was forcing the rails to squeeze at the bottom which made the top flare out so I sanded the inside as best I could until I got it to a point I think is acceptable. Still not 100%, but I got some 147 grain ammo to get it worked in. The spring on the guide rod definitely needs some breaking in. And I’m sure there is cerakote in the rail slots that needs to be worked off.

    Editors note: after cussing for a week and swearing off polymer 80’s, I couldn’t let a piece of plastic beat me. So I ordered another kit and I will drill one hole a day if I have to, but this damn thing will not beat me!


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  9. CodyK

    CodyK Active Member

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    Getting frustrated! It will fire 5-6 rounds no problem, then have a failure to feed. Clear that, then after 5-6 more another failure to feed. Gonna do some more polishing and try again Monday.


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  10. CyberWolf

    CyberWolf Active Member

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    The key is to just keep at it and stay patient (easy to remove material, not so much for putting it back...)

    Some builds just go together like they were meant to be, but seems that many require some level of tuning.

    Also, keep in mind that it may be an issue of tolerance stacking, and part-specific considerations can affect functionality (e.g. - one build had failure to properly engage FP on return-to-battery every 4-5 rounds; solution was combo of polishing rear rail and using different connector - prob solved...)
     


    Last edited: Jan 31, 2020
    CodyK likes this.

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