What did you do today in the world of reloading?

xdmikey · Jul 3, 2020

I will plan on shooting up the 200 or so I have loaded unless the heat builds up too quickly then I think I will swap in my Lee 9mm sizer to start with.

I had an issue when I went back to loading 357 that was due to the cases not being sized down far enough but was cured with the Lee sizing die.

xdmikey · Jul 3, 2020

rp-, that's a pretty good puller but I only load 223 & 308 for rifle so I think I'm good and pistol. Well, I just use my hammer version but I'll keep it in mind.

Lit off 20 rounds, light leading but scavenged almost 100 pieces of brass so I'll size these using the Lee sizer and see if things go better!

rp- · Jul 3, 2020

Deavis said:
.

If you have to run your ammo through an FCD you have an issue you should solve. If you have to run it through a sizing die you have a bigger issue to solve. Post sizing can be useful in some situations but if you have to post size to get your ammo to gage, you have a problem in your loading setup. FCDs usually mask poor setup.

Well now you have me questioning my setup. I use the fcd on my pistol rounds just for a touch of crimp. I'm not squeezing the shit out of them or anything though. I can set the seating die to add the little crimp but I have the extra space on the press so that's why I do it separate.

I only use it on pistol rounds I do. Recently I've been loading 45s for example. They all plunk in my barrel but I notice just a touch of flare left after seating. If I adjust for less flare I get a few cases that don't seat and crush the case due to the flat base bullets.

I do use a little.kore flare on my cast rounds otherwise I tend to set small shavings of lead when seating. Again, on these I'm only crimping enough to remove the little left over flare.

Would I be better off getting the Lyman M-die to flare all my cases? I use one for 223 for flat base bullets.

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Deavis · Jul 3, 2020

Let's step back and make sure that we are speaking the same language on setup. My setup is a bit different that most of yours but the fundamentals are the same. Assuming you are following a normal setup for taper crimp pistol rounds, you are flaring to make bullet seating easier and crimping to remove flare as well as ensure reliable feeding. Again, crimp is about removing flare and ensuring reliable feeding when taper crimping.

So a normal crimp die provides all that for you but an FCD is NOT a normal crimp die. It has a carbide ring in there to squeeze oversize cases down so they meet the SAAMI minimum chamber size or maximum ammunition size depending on how you want to look at it. Then it crimps. So every piece of brass with thick walls gets squeezed down. Your CBC, PPUs, GFL, and other foreign headstamps gets the squeeze. No matter the crimp setting, you are sizing that casing and the bullet it holds. That's why it leaves burnish marks on casings, it is sizing and then crimping. Oversize bullet, chambers. Bad brass with a neck bulge, chambers. Improperly sized brass, chambers. It will help all the bad stuff chamber.

My contention is that if your setup was correct, you wouldn't need an FCD, just a crimp die. If your ammo won't plunk because of crimp, then turn down your normal crimp die. target .003" under the SAAMI max neck spec and you will always plunk unless their is something wrong with the cartridge outside of crimp.

rp- · Jul 3, 2020

Deavis said:
Let's step back and make sure that we are speaking the same language on setup. My setup is a bit different that most of yours but the fundamentals are the same. Assuming you are following a normal setup for taper crimp pistol rounds, you are flaring to make bullet seating easier and crimping to remove flare as well as ensure reliable feeding. Again, crimp is about removing flare and ensuring reliable feeding when taper crimping.

So a normal crimp die provides all that for you but an FCD is NOT a normal crimp die. It has a carbide ring in there to squeeze oversize cases down so they meet the SAAMI minimum chamber size or maximum ammunition size depending on how you want to look at it. Then it crimps. So every piece of brass with thick walls gets squeezed down. Your CBC, PPUs, GFL, and other foreign headstamps gets the squeeze. No matter the crimp setting, you are sizing that casing and the bullet it holds. That's why it leaves burnish marks on casings, it is sizing and then crimping. Oversize bullet, chambers. Bad brass with a neck bulge, chambers. Improperly sized brass, chambers. It will help all the bad stuff chamber.

My contention is that if your setup was correct, you wouldn't need an FCD, just a crimp die. If your ammo won't plunk because of crimp, then turn down your normal crimp die. target .003" under the SAAMI max neck spec and you will always plunk unless their is something wrong with the cartridge outside of crimp.

I understand. I appreciate yiur advice, as always and I think I'm doing it right. The only reason I'm using a FCD is because it came with the set. I suppose if I had a regular taper crimp for those I'd use that. For roll crimped 38/357/44/45c I am using a single stage press to load them because they're small batches and I don't have a FCD for those rounds. For those I seat bullets in the whole batch, then back out the seating stem and tighten the die down to roll crimp with the die.

Now how do you feel about the Lee collet crimp dies for rifle? I'm using one for 223 and when I start loading 7.62x39 again I'll use one there. My bolt actions I don't use a flare die and just use neck tension with no crimp. I haven't started handloading 223 for the bolt action yet but that will use bthp bullets with no flare die and no crimp.

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vmax · Jul 3, 2020

For reloading today..I picked up all my brass after shooting 200 rounds of 9mm and 45

SQLGeek · Jul 3, 2020

Thanks Deavis. I just picked up a Lee 4 die set for 9mm, knowing that the FCD can be a crutch for bad technique. I mainly wanted the ability to taper crimp in a separate stage. I figure I can always knock the carbide ring out especially if I start loading cast bullets.

rp- · Jul 3, 2020

SQLGeek said:
Thanks Deavis. I just picked up a Lee 4 die set for 9mm, knowing that the FCD can be a crutch for bad technique. I mainly wanted the ability to taper crimp in a separate stage. I figure I can always knock the carbide ring out especially if I start loading cast bullets.

Hey, regardless of the carbide ring, my cast 9mm at still very accurate.

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SQLGeek · Jul 3, 2020

Good to hear! I'll do a full evaluation before deciding to go that route to be sure.

rp- · Jul 3, 2020

I'm gonna pull a few of my 380s and see what diameter the bullets come are this weekend. 9 might not have the same issue because it's tapered.

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MTA · Jul 3, 2020

I won Lee 8mm mauser dies NIB off of ebay for $14 shipped

Deavis · Jul 3, 2020

SQLGeek said:
Thanks Deavis. I just picked up a Lee 4 die set for 9mm, knowing that the FCD can be a crutch for bad technique. I mainly wanted the ability to taper crimp in a separate stage. I figure I can always knock the carbide ring out especially if I start loading cast bullets.

Lead and the FCD definitely dont mix in my experience, particularly in 45Auto. The FCD has its uses and can be helpful if used correctly. Keep it and buy a taper crimp die from Redding.

SQLGeek · Jul 3, 2020

I might eventually. This reloading thing sure isn't saving me any money. :facepalm:

Hawkeye David · Jul 3, 2020

Pulled the trigger on the Dillon XL750. Have reloaded on the Lee for the last 10 years and a friend let me try his out. WTH was I thinking using the Lee all this time.........

Deavis · Jul 3, 2020

rp- said:
Now how do you feel about the Lee collet crimp dies for rifle? I'm using one for 223 and when I start loading 7.62x39 again I'll use one there. My bolt actions I don't use a flare die and just use neck tension with no crimp. I haven't started handloading 223 for the bolt action yet but that will use bthp bullets with no flare die and no crimp.

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It sounds like it, I just always caution with FCDs. What got me was you using a normal sizing die, which is actually a super expert move. You can use a carbide sizing die to crimp 9mm because it has a body taper. So you set the die to get the taper you want, say 376, and you have a carbide crimper that you can run a million rounds on. You cant do that reliably with calibers that do NOT have a tapered body unless you modify the radius to provide the proper taper crimp angle. Expert move.

I like the Lee collet dies, they are easy to use and certainly crimp well. I've never found a need for them that wasn't filled by normal crimp dies. To be fair, I always buy a separate crimp die, even if it means I have to buy 2 seaters and use one as a crimp die on a progressive. All sounds solid for your rifle setup.

Deavis · Jul 3, 2020

Finally loaded 45 and enjoyed the beat thing about a family business, family

SQLGeek · Jul 3, 2020

Deavis said:
You can use a carbide sizing die to crimp 9mm because it has a body taper.

xdmikey · Jul 4, 2020

Snagged almost 200 9mm cases with a smattering of 45s. Came home and didn't even unbag my pistol. Straight to chores, major chores that can't be ignored.

But today is gun day, or loading day! I'll update changes I spoke of for 9mm loading.
Thanks Deavis!

xdmikey · Jul 4, 2020

@Deavis

Tad deeper seating and they all plunk in the Lone Wolf barrel. Thanks Deavis.

MTA · Jul 9, 2020

German food

What did you do today in the world of reloading?

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